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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got around to installing the Prospeed Bumper tank, but I cannot get the lack of a pressure relief off my mind. I am debating having a 1/4" nipple welded on toward the top of the fill neck and adding a low pressure adjustable pressure relief valve. Using the inline piece below would allow for it to be routed to a container in case it vented more than just air.

Straval Inline Pressure Relief Valve <LINK>

Have you guys done anything on your systems to relieve excess system pressure like the OEM T reservoir did?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That would definitely work, I’m hoping to not have to neck down the diameter for the T though. Next step in the plan is all 1” lines with the AR Hobbs brick.


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Are you focusing on water flow or heat dissipation?

Keep your eye on the prize, and do not over-pressurize the brick.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My current concern is relieving head pressure. After that, I’m just focused on whatever keeps me from hitting 140* IAT2 in summer.

I also had issues before with the EMP pump pushing fluid out the overflow line so I’m hesitant to reintroduce it in the system.


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Ahh. You have an EMP. Ok. You can get a tee that will accept a radiator cap with a low pressure rating. Or fashion a relief valve and a hose to drain where appropriate.


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I like the idea, not sure about the one you selected, I was thinking something more like this,


I ended up venting mine by adding a bulkhead fitting and hydrophobic vent filter, but I have an underhood tank where it is the highest point.

I wanted to get rid of any back pressure in the system thinking it would pump better, but because it is a loop the back pressure would also provide pressure on the suction side so maybe it doesn’t really matter, I was going to add a vortex flow meter to measure if there were any differences but not sure worth the time and effort.


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Vortex flow meter….if your fluid is conductive, a magnetic flow meter would be better because:

-Vortex require 10 pipe diameters upstream, 5 downstream, of straight run

-there is some pressure drop across the shedder bar

If the fluid isn’t conducive, magnetic won’t work, period.

The testing I did years ago was using a magnetic flow meter and tap water.

There are less expensive and more expensive options.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don’t think even my hotrodded EMP would move the needle on our Coriolis meters at work. They’re also calibrated to something with a little higher gravity than my coolant blend haha.


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I don’t think even my hotrodded EMP would move the needle on our Coriolis meters at work. They’re also calibrated to something with a little higher gravity than my coolant blend haha.


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Coriolis meters have incredible turndown. I’ve run them 1500:1 turndown ratio at better than 2%.

They are calibrated on air and water and have a straight line calibration from 0 to 5 g/cc, and the uncertainty is, depending on manufacturer and model/series, 0.01-0.0002 g/cc.

Basically, on water, better than 0.1% on the better models.


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I use a 5psi "radiator" style in line relief- a true 3/4" style with cap and you can find them on eBay.

Definitely need a pressure relief for an under hood system. The stewart can move some fluid and it can cavitate if not run with a reservoir.

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Sorry I mis spoke I meant a simple mechanical variable area flow meter like this, wasn’t thinking it needed to be that accurate just to see if there was a difference in different setups.




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