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I’m about to be in the same boat as you. I have a JL Audio PowerWedge+, and I’ll be connecting it to the RCA subwoofer outs of my Kenwood, and drive the rest of the speakers through the Metra kit using the bose amp. If you haven’t figured it out by then, I’ll let you know how it goes for me.


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I’m about to be in the same boat as you. I have a JL Audio PowerWedge+, and I’ll be connecting it to the RCA subwoofer outs of my Kenwood, and drive the rest of the speakers through the Metra kit using the bose amp. If you haven’t figured it out by then, I’ll let you know how it goes for me.


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I also emailed metra and see if they can think of anything

basically to whats happening to me is..

My radio max volume is 40, if i dont adjust the metra pot my loudness is around 25 but sound is acting like its at 40 all distorted and static like, sub works fine... even if i max out the volume on the headunit and turn the metra pot all the way down the sound is acting blown out at only a level 2,

But then i adjust the metra pot to clean sound so my max volume is 15, but with pot adjusted it sounds like im at 40, but sub is quiet

So what i assume is happening is the sub is acting like it is at 15, but the radio is acting like its at max, so thats also why im thinking i may have to use a LOC to match the signal from the actual volume and not the headunit



But yea let me know demann63 how things go for you, and thanks for the suggestions
I'm going to try some things later this week, but when you guys "zero out" the stock head unit, what does everyone do exactly..

Like I put my bass, trebble, ect at the middle or what I assume is factory setting, but do these need to be tuned all the way to the left or all the way down? If so that may be my problem, and also does the volume at which the radio was left at matter as well? Mine was off but I wonder if having the volume all the way down or up make a difference as well
Zero everything out didn't change anything btw
 

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Changed a bunch of settings on the pioneer headunit and it resolved my problem

Was almost about to sell this setup and go back to stock, absolutely in love now
 

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Changed a bunch of settings on the pioneer headunit and it resolved my problem
Hi Lakai5, what settings did you change on the headhunt to make the subwoofer output at the right volume compared to the rest of the system? Does your pioneer headunit have a subwoofer output level adjustment?
 

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Hi Lakai5, what settings did you change on the headhunt to make the subwoofer output at the right volume compared to the rest of the system? Does your pioneer headunit have a subwoofer output level adjustment?
The main resolution to the distortion was fixed by turning on the HPF filter for the speakers, there is also another filter but i left that flat(one that allows you to select powerful/vocal/ect.... factory it was at powerful but didnt sound great...... this then allowed me to set the volume at 3/4 with no distortion, then adjust the metra pot, and it actually sounds good, and with the volume being able to go that high the sub was working fine, there is a sub adjustment on the headunit that helped bump up the sub power even more, and there is still a bass boost feature, but its not really needed unless you really want the sub to hit, but as is its perfect
 

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Ok, cool, thanks for the info. I’ll be doing the final radio connections and Metra kit initialization tomorrow or Wednesday. I’ll keep what you did in mind.


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Hi jrV,

Was that all you had to cut to make the Kenwood fit? From what you posted, it looks like all you had to do was to make the cut in the car's center console frame that the Metra kit's instructions said to make to install it.

I was worried because Crutchfield says that even with the Metra kit, the Kenwood radios are still 1/4" too deep to fit, so I was assuming you would have to cut or shave off something extra in the car's center console besides what the Metra kit's installation guide says to cut.

If these Kenwood radios fit just by doing the standard Metra installation, then this is really good news.
That's all I had to trim. Despite what Crutchfield says, it fits without issue.

The only issue I ran into for the whole installation was the AXIS steering wheel controller. Could not get it to recognize and auto-program at first. What worked for me was plugging it in and tapping the volume up button rhythmically, like a steady heartbeat. Some have just held the volume up button but I had to tap it. Finally worked and everything was peachy. I didn't run into volume issues, no A/C control issues, no problems at all. Followed the instructions to T and everything worked out.

I used a host of factory connectors so I didn't have to hack anything. Everything was plug and play. I used crimp-less solder/heat shrink connectors for the birds nest of a Metra harness and they were awesome. I also relocated my AreoForce gauge to the ash tray and swapped out the power port for a USB port. I never use those anyways so I took out the one in the center armrest console and replaced it with the bass gain control knob.

I have a JL Audio PowerWedge for a sub and it works well. Before the head-unit swap I had the MTX Re-Q and it worked ok but had to use a remote gain to control the bass. Now that I'm tapped directly to the Kenwood and not through the digital amp I don't lose any bass from the sub. I still have the remote gain but I don't really need it.

Now to make things even better I got Wireless Android Auto to work with my Galaxy Note 9 so I'm very pleased with the stereo install. I was just happy to have bluetooth capabilities for the music on my phone since my iPhone/iPod was a pain in the ass (probably the iPhone connector board wearing out). Anyways I love using Waze and Amazon music and everything connects automatically when I get in and start the car. Totally glad I went this route.

 
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That's all I had to trim. Despite what Crutchfield says, it fits without issue.

The only issue I ran into for the whole installation was the AXIS steering wheel controller. Could not get it to recognize and auto-program at first. What worked for me was plugging it in and tapping the volume up button rhythmically, like a steady heartbeat. Some have just held the volume up button but I had to tap it. Finally worked and everything was peachy. I didn't run into volume issues, no A/C control issues, no problems at all. Followed the instructions to T and everything worked out.

I used a host of factory connectors so I didn't have to hack anything. Everything was plug and play. I used crimp-less solder/heat shrink connectors for the birds nest of a Metra harness and they were awesome. I also relocated my AreoForce gauge to the ash tray and swapped out the power port for a USB port. I never use those anyways so I took out the one in the center armrest console and replaced it with the bass gain control knob.

I have a JL Audio PowerWedge for a sub and it works well. Before the head-unit swap I had the MTX Re-Q and it worked ok but had to use a remote gain to control the bass. Now that I'm tapped directly to the Kenwood and not through the digital amp I don't lose any bass from the sub. I still have the remote gain but I don't really need it.

Now to make things even better I got Wireless Android Auto to work with my Galaxy Note 9 so I'm very pleased with the stereo install. I was just happy to have bluetooth capabilities for the music on my phone since my iPhone/iPod was a pain in the ass (probably the iPhone connector board wearing out). Anyways I love using Waze and Amazon music and everything connects automatically when I get in and start the car. Totally glad I went this route.
Where did you get the upper dash trim panel? Did you re-use the original one? The reason I ask is because I broke the plastic one that came in the Metra kit but would like to have the look of the original like yours.
 

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Where did you get the upper dash trim panel? Did you re-use the original one? The reason I ask is because I broke the plastic one that came in the Metra kit but would like to have the look of the original like yours.
Ordered from GM, non-Nav trim piece PN 25876731.

Alternatively you can sometimes find them on eBay.
 

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Where did you get the upper dash trim panel? Did you re-use the original one? The reason I ask is because I broke the plastic one that came in the Metra kit but would like to have the look of the original like yours.
Ordered from GM, non-Nav trim piece PN 25876731.

Alternatively you can sometimes find them on eBay.
Thanks for the part number.
 

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I picked up a good non-Nav trim piece off ebay for $30 a few months ago ...
 

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Hi jrV,

I am just a step behind you. I just got my Kenwood receiver and Metra kit installed Tuesday night. It fit, and everything seems to work, including backup camera (it even has guidelines, but they don't move with the steering wheel... :(, so I had to turn them off). Wireless CarPlay works, Siri voice recognition works, handsfree calling works, and the steering wheel buttons work.

I still need to do the JL Audio PowerWedge+ sub install. I have the RCA cable plugged into the back of the Kenwood, but I still need to take off the passenger side door sill and rear panels and seat to run it back to the trunk. So I'm still using the crappy bose sub at the moment.

The audio sounds good, but I think I have too much volume in the rear, and of course you can't fade F/R with the Metra kit and the bose amp. This could be related to my upgrading the front dash speakers to aftermarket Infinitys, and the rears still being stock. I'm thinking of other options for that, including upgrading the rears to matching Infinity speakers, or just disconnecting the rears entirely.

One question, in your pictures, it looks like your Kenwood receiver is sitting in the Metra kit frame flush or maybe even protruding out by a bit. Mine is recessed back by about 1/8". I'm thinking this is due to the mounting hole selection that I used when attaching the plastic side mounting brackets from the Metra kit to the Kenwood receiver. How did you decide which mounting holes in the Kenwood to use for those brackets? Or were you just lucky, and I was not? :confused:

Regards,
Greg
 

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Hi jrV,

I am just a step behind you. I just got my Kenwood receiver and Metra kit installed Tuesday night. It fit, and everything seems to work, including backup camera (it even has guidelines, but they don't move with the steering wheel... :(, so I had to turn them off). Wireless CarPlay works, Siri voice recognition works, handsfree calling works, and the steering wheel buttons work.

I still need to do the JL Audio PowerWedge+ sub install. I have the RCA cable plugged into the back of the Kenwood, but I still need to take off the passenger side door sill and rear panels and seat to run it back to the trunk. So I'm still using the crappy bose sub at the moment.

The audio sounds good, but I think I have too much volume in the rear, and of course you can't fade F/R with the Metra kit and the bose amp. This could be related to my upgrading the front dash speakers to aftermarket Infinitys, and the rears still being stock. I'm thinking of other options for that, including upgrading the rears to matching Infinity speakers, or just disconnecting the rears entirely.

One question, in your pictures, it looks like your Kenwood receiver is sitting in the Metra kit frame flush or maybe even protruding out by a bit. Mine is recessed back by about 1/8". I'm thinking this is due to the mounting hole selection that I used when attaching the plastic side mounting brackets from the Metra kit to the Kenwood receiver. How did you decide which mounting holes in the Kenwood to use for those brackets? Or were you just lucky, and I was not? :confused:

Regards,
Greg
What I did was line up the front of the Metra brackets so that it was flush with where the metal casing meets the black plastic face of the head unit (if that makes sense). Plenty of holes lined up so I just picked 3 on each side (the slots with the arrows if I remember correctly). The face of mine sits pretty close to flush, maybe about 1mm to 2mm forward of the Metra face.
 

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What I did was line up the front of the Metra brackets so that it was flush with where the metal casing meets the black plastic face of the head unit (if that makes sense). Plenty of holes lined up so I just picked 3 on each side (the slots with the arrows if I remember correctly). The face of mine sits pretty close to flush, maybe about 1mm to 2mm forward of the Metra face.
Ok, cool, and thanks, that is useful information. From my fuzzy memory, I don't think I aligned it like you did when I put those brackets on.

I'm waiting to see if there are any other odd issues that might pop up before I pull the radio dash panel to try adjusting the forward fit. But the next time I pull the panel, I'm going to try aligning it like you said.
 

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Is dashcommand a built in feature? or do all decks have them?

I hate drilling holes for gauges and would like to look at them time to time

Are there any units that have 2 video ports? Id like one for the front and rear...

Thanks
 

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Hi all,

I've been following this thread since it started back in 2016. I wasn't a fan of the original app radio used by OP and have always wanted to put in a full 2 DIN (which Crutchfield claims doesn't fit). I am a big fan of the Pioneer head units and was looking at the AVH-W4500NEX, but I like what Kenwood is doing also (not sure which model would be comparable or better). Most important features for me are to have a 7" display (or larger), backup camera add-on (aftermarket - 2010 has no factory cam), dashcam option, Android Auto wireless, and the ability to display the Torque app or similar on the display. I know that the newer head units support the ODBII add-on iDatalink Maestro, but I do not know how well it works with our V2 system. My biggest hesitation to pulling the trigger on this head unit update is not knowing which one best suits my needs. Sound quality is also high on my list, but I am not trying to vibrate windows on the cars next to me. I mainly listen to metal and rock music with the occasional pop music for the wife and kids. I'm looking for a clean sound, good low volume listening, and something I can turn up and feel. The factory Bose unit is so bad!
 

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Still doing some research to which deck I want, probably end up with a pioneer of some sort, the pricing of 250~ looks good, but Ive had bad experiences with cheaper decks, is this one laggy or anything?

Android auto still works right? From what I gather the app radio app is how I get the dashcommand app to appear on the unit via my phone/obd2?
 

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Is dashcommand a built in feature? or do all decks have them?

I hate drilling holes for gauges and would like to look at them time to time

Are there any units that have 2 video ports? Id like one for the front and rear...

Thanks
Dashcommand is an app you need a App capable radio in order to utilize. Pioneer's AppRadio does support Dashcommand as shown in this thread. Most newer aftermarket headunits come with video inputs for front and rear cams, just check the headunit specs.

Hi all,

I've been following this thread since it started back in 2016. I wasn't a fan of the original app radio used by OP and have always wanted to put in a full 2 DIN (which Crutchfield claims doesn't fit). I am a big fan of the Pioneer head units and was looking at the AVH-W4500NEX, but I like what Kenwood is doing also (not sure which model would be comparable or better). Most important features for me are to have a 7" display (or larger), backup camera add-on (aftermarket - 2010 has no factory cam), dashcam option, Android Auto wireless, and the ability to display the Torque app or similar on the display. I know that the newer head units support the ODBII add-on iDatalink Maestro, but I do not know how well it works with our V2 system. My biggest hesitation to pulling the trigger on this head unit update is not knowing which one best suits my needs. Sound quality is also high on my list, but I am not trying to vibrate windows on the cars next to me. I mainly listen to metal and rock music with the occasional pop music for the wife and kids. I'm looking for a clean sound, good low volume listening, and something I can turn up and feel. The factory Bose unit is so bad!
Crutchfield said my Kenwood DDX-9906XR would not fit but I had no issues so, while Crutchfield is a good resource, they are not always 100% correct. I'm not too keen on the App options on the Kenwood units - or lack thereof. But I do like the display and other features. IMPORTANT - iDatalink Maestro is not supported for the CTS-V so unfortunately we're SOL - don't even bother going there. Sucks having the capability with an awesome headunit but no support for your vehicle platform.

Seems like the two common HU's are the Kenwood's and the Pioneer AppRadio's. I'm happy with my selection. I do wish I had more App support like the AppRadio's but my main focus was wireless Android Auto and high-def display with TC panel.

I'm going to try a workaround I saw on one of the camero threads that display the Torque App on basically any AA capable radio, factory or aftermarket, so we'll see how that goes.
 
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