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So.... surprisingly, the lid doesn't leak.

But the brick does NOT like 19psi. That is fin deformation that matches the blower opening pretty well on the underside (facing the rotors). The top (exit) of the brick looks perfect!

Going off this, I'd say ZL1 lids are not ideal over 15-16psi.

Could also be the larger rotor packs of the 2650 creating a more abrupt transition to high flow contributing to the deformation. Hopefully the Kong lid proves itself.


Holy shit that's wrecked. Glad it didn't leak and cause some kind of damage to that glorious engine. I wonder how the Kong lids are holding up to the 2650.

Are you going with the new billet brick?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,162 ·
Oh snap I haven’t seen one that bad.
Could it be caused by anything else? It seems hard to believe it was just air that did that.
Do you spray meth Pre blower at all?
Could water or anything have gotten in there?


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You're not George on Facebook, are you? Lol


Yeah it was a surprise for sure, but I had zero issues before pulling it. No fluid loss, no knock - just 19psi. The fins literally look like the boost just pushed them over.

Waiting on the Kong as I know I am running a lot of boost. No spray, just 93 pump and ethanol.

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It really does take a lot of time, effort, learning and money to make bigger power with PD blowers. The Kong lid becomes yet another higher dollar part required. Hopefully that will hold up to the airflow.

It is great to see you continue to share the knowledge on fuel systems, lids, etc as you push to levels above a max port factory blower.

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Discussion Starter · #1,164 ·
It really does take a lot of time, effort, learning and money to make bigger power with PD blowers. The Kong lid becomes yet another higher dollar part required. Hopefully that will hold up to the airflow.

It is great to see you continue to share the knowledge on fuel systems, lids, etc as you push to levels above a max port factory blower.

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Keep an eye peeled for the "Vagon for sale" thread as soon as I get it back together! Lol

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damn after seeing those fins ur prob going to gain some power back as that would be causing havoc to the airflow, may even need a fuel adjustment up top if it goes a little lean from better flow after its fixed
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,167 ·
Where did all the shavings come from? What do the rotors in the blower look like?
Those aren't shavings - they're bits of fins that broke off and essentially shoved into other parts of the brick.

The blower looks normal, but I'm sure I've had to have eaten some of that along the way. The brick mostly acted as an air filter as the back side is pristine- all the bits I think were limited to the top of the blower case and captured by the brick.

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You're not George on Facebook, are you? Lol


Yeah it was a surprise for sure, but I had zero issues before pulling it. No fluid loss, no knock - just 19psi. The fins literally look like the boost just pushed them over.

Waiting on the Kong as I know I am running a lot of boost. No spray, just 93 pump and ethanol.

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I am not George but I sure am curious what caused this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,169 ·
I am not George but I sure am curious what caused this.
Several people have reported distorted fins from Kong blowers on FB. One guy (Tyler twerdyn?) - who I feel like is a member here - said his brick sprung a leak, but that was from over-heating and therefore the other three examples must be wrong. 3 < 1 = Facebook Logic.

It really just looks like the pressure delta is crushing fins; I'm having a hard time imagining what else it could be? My IAT2s never get crazy, so my theory is perhaps the Kong is able to ramp up boost pressure so quickly that there is a pressure wave being generated at a greater intensity than the 1.9 can generate. The fin damage is only the first millimeter or two into the brick and perfectly matches the exit plenum on the blower; being more severe towards the wider area of the exit plenum - the rear of the brick is pristine as the pressure delta would be dissipated by then. Obviously there was some oil film from the PCV system but everything else checked out - including my IAT2s and recovery before pulling the lid.
 

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It’s a little like my V lid brick looks after time. But mine have 4 or 5 spots where a few fins are bent. Yours, everything is bent. Whether it’s air speed or pressure drop, it’s too much for a stock brick. Mine was doing it at 660hp and got worse (quicker) at 700+hp.

I think heat is adding to the problem. We don’t really know the temperature of the air exiting the blower. We barely know air temp after the brick because the factory sensor is slow to respond and probably doesn’t show the true peak temps.
 

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Several people have reported distorted fins from Kong blowers on FB. One guy (Tyler twerdyn?) - who I feel like is a member here - said his brick sprung a leak, but that was from over-heating and therefore the other three examples must be wrong. 3 < 1 = Facebook Logic.

It really just looks like the pressure delta is crushing fins; I'm having a hard time imagining what else it could be? My IAT2s never get crazy, so my theory is perhaps the Kong is able to ramp up boost pressure so quickly that there is a pressure wave being generated at a greater intensity than the 1.9 can generate. The fin damage is only the first millimeter or two into the brick and perfectly matches the exit plenum on the blower; being more severe towards the wider area of the exit plenum - the rear of the brick is pristine as the pressure delta would be dissipated by then. Obviously there was some oil film from the PCV system but everything else checked out - including my IAT2s and recovery before pulling the lid.
Yeah you are probably right, I can't think of anything else causing the fins to bend like that if you aren't spraying anything pre blower.

However have you ruled out your neighbor that got butthurt about your burnout? He could have sneaked in and fucked your IC brick up as an obscure payback...

Also, my second comment was mostly a Curious George joke.
 

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Several people have reported distorted fins from Kong blowers on FB. One guy (Tyler twerdyn?) - who I feel like is a member here - said his brick sprung a leak, but that was from over-heating and therefore the other three examples must be wrong. 3 < 1 = Facebook Logic.

It really just looks like the pressure delta is crushing fins; I'm having a hard time imagining what else it could be? My IAT2s never get crazy, so my theory is perhaps the Kong is able to ramp up boost pressure so quickly that there is a pressure wave being generated at a greater intensity than the 1.9 can generate. The fin damage is only the first millimeter or two into the brick and perfectly matches the exit plenum on the blower; being more severe towards the wider area of the exit plenum - the rear of the brick is pristine as the pressure delta would be dissipated by then. Obviously there was some oil film from the PCV system but everything else checked out - including my IAT2s and recovery before pulling the lid.
thats interesting but could be a few things. im sure duck could help explain

any pics of the damaged fins (zl1 or lsa lids?) , or info on the amount the blowers were spinning? curious to how they line up with the shape of the rotor outlet. The velocity could be much more severe on the kong causing a wave of pressure when loaded or just more airflow than the fins can manage.
Does the new kong lid use the stock orange gasket to seal against?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,173 ·
thats interesting but could be a few things. im sure duck could help explain

any pics of the damaged fins (zl1 or lsa lids?) , or info on the amount the blowers were spinning? curious to how they line up with the shape of the rotor outlet. The velocity could be much more severe on the kong causing a wave of pressure when loaded or just more airflow than the fins can manage.
Does the new kong lid use the stock orange gasket to seal against?
The new Kong has a much greater surface area, and is dual pass so it uses a much larger gasket.

You can I think imagine the triangular shape of the exit plenum against the brick in this photo:


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Discussion Starter · #1,174 · (Edited)
Ok so I was afraid I'd have to drop the tank to get the fuel lines out - I was able to get them with some wiggling.

Also, I bought a low profile fuel line disconnect off Amazon, notched it slightly to get around the sensor and was able to get the ethanol sensor off. Ugh. What a bear!

I think that's the hard stuff. I want the ethanol sensor as close to the fuel rails as possible- and my adapter is cock-sized (aka foot lenth) so squeezing that in the bay is a challenge.. I'll have to redo the perfectly symmetrical T I made for the fuel rails to have enough space.

Still waiting on the Kong lid. I ordered it two weeks ago - glad I emailed ahead of time to make sure they were in stock...




 

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Oh my. I can't wait to see what that intercooler does for you.

I agree about the difficulty in hiding the ethanol sensor bypass. It's a brick. I'm going to be getting rid of my coil relocation setup and put the coils back over the valve covers (ordering new ones that are taller to clear my RRs) just so I can put the sensor and bypass behind the passenger strut tower. What a PITA.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,176 · (Edited)
Lid came in. I'm like... intercooler looks robust - but where's the gasket?

WTF. $2500 for a lid and I'm supposed to pilfer the outside gasket from my "old lid?"

Geesh. I'm impressed with the hunk of aluminum but having to source the freaking gasket separately (I sold my lid last week) is annoying. But I get it, they're not cheap so just something to plan for.

Oh, and I'm pretty sure Greg said this is the same core as the Cobra Jet intercooler cores - but I'm not sure who the supplier is. Looks like a quality core.



Note: the gasket is GM 12613457 and is around $40 shipped online.


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Discussion Starter · #1,177 ·
I suspect this might be a CSF intercooler design based on the appearance... not sure though.

Stock photo:


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I have a new gasket if you want it. Send me your address and I'll put it in the mail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,179 ·
I have a new gasket if you want it. Send me your address and I'll put it in the mail.
That is mighty kind of you, Sir! I literally just ordered one though.

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I tagged you in my fuel system rant. You still targeting 66-68PSI fuel pressure? If so, when the aux turns on, what are your stock pumps doing as far as duty cycle? Are you having pressure dip issues from the stock pumps not adjusting quick enough?

I changed my V relief valve out for a C7 ZR1 relief valve and now I can actually command 80+ PSI pressure and let the pumps modulate to maintain without dipping (hopefully) below 60 PSI......EVER.

Also, hot lid. I hope it makes your shit next level....or pisses you off so much that you go twins.
 
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