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Any decent hydraulic shop can crimp anything. Google hydraulic shop in your zip. I have 3 within 15 mins of me and you'd likely never know they were there if you didn't know about them.
 

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Or let me know what hose and ends you want to use, or I can ask my guy what he'd recommend. Cut em and put em together, and send them to me and I'll send them back crimped. He won't charge me to crimp stuff. I can also get the fittings and hose for wholesale.
 

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i find the teflon braided AN line/fittings (with the olive) works well and will never come apart if its a quality brand, they can even be a little loose and still not leak, some may not like the use of the olive and getting it all together but ive done a bit of it so its quite easy once you have done it a few times
 

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Why don’t you just use push lock? Stupid easy and can be done way faster. They have e85 compatible lines, way simpler.
 

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I’ve used push lock with oetiker clamps and haven’t had an issue with other fluids, I haven’t done a fuel system build though.


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You're really not supposed to use clamps on pushlok, the barbs will cut into the hose. Especially on fuel applications. They'll hold 300psi with no clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,087 ·
I've used pushlok on vacuum hoses and such - but for basically three lines I'd like to not worry about it.

Crimped just makes me feel warm and fuzzy with fuel at 100psi.

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Discussion Starter · #1,089 ·
I am mulling it over - but I also realize that the fuel hat fittings and the Dsteck Aux pump are both standard AN fittings... so half would be -AN and the other half super-duper ORB or compression.

Seems silly to over think it, but it be what it do!

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I wouldn't use push lock for fuel, but quality screw on AN fittings made for teflon lined hoses terminated right will never leak. They fit tight. However AN fittings take time and can be a PITA. Compression is definitely a good option as well. I would sleep well with either. You definitely don't want to half *ss fuel stuff.

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Push lock can support 300psi, no clamps. I’ve had it on my chevelle for 5 years no problems whatsoever.

Some places do show clamps on the push lock hose...

As mentioned earlier, buy the fittings to the hose your gonna use. Obviously I go for push lock, save yourself A LOT of time and headache! You already have enough headaches for just overthinking this! Haha

If you do use other fittings, stay away from stainless line, shit sucks.

Again, PUSH LOCK! ;)
 
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I wouldn’t run push lock on fuel line, let alone e85. I much prefer TEFLON hose with olives. But each to their own.
 

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Yeah there's no steel in pushlok hose. If it were a stock Silverado or something fuck yeah but this setup at these pressures I can't see saving 10 bucks and a little legwork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,094 · (Edited)
I just ordered a Fuelabs 6um in-line filter and replacements, the Radium rails and a fuel pressure damper (what the heck, right?). The Holly hydramat acts like a 15um pre-filter but you can't be too careful!

Ironically the Fuelabs filter was on sale so I picked that up relatively cheap through Jeg's... and Amazon had the Radium fuel line / damper for like $80 less than any other vendor...

Since so many of the fittings are -AN already (tank, Aux kit), I am just going to get some PTFE hose and fittings and plumb it myself. I figure it will be easier to cut-to-length on the spot and I've worked with -AN stuff before so the learning curve shouldn't be too steep.
 

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I just ordered a Fuelabs 6um in-line filter and replacements, the Radium rails and a fuel pressure damper (what the heck, right?). The Holly hydramat acts like a 15um pre-filter but you can't be too careful!

Ironically the Fuelabs filter was on sale so I picked that up relatively cheap through Jeg's... and Amazon had the Radium fuel line / damper for like $80 less than any other vendor...

Since so many of the fittings are -AN already (tank, Aux kit), I am just going to get some PTFE hose and fittings and plumb it myself. I figure it will be easier to cut-to-length on the spot and I've worked with -AN stuff before so the learning curve shouldn't be too steep.
Once you do the first one the rest fall into place very easily. The only recommendation I can have is buy the proper cutting tool. Makes life easier.
 

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The fuel pressure required for our engines is significantly less than push lock can handle. But that obviously doesn’t matter! Haha

A good cutting tool, cutting it square, and lube will be your best friend! Do you have a vice with the an fitting clamps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,098 ·
So I'm glad I decided to upgrade valve covers - the 1.8 rocker arms were just barely kissing the internal baffles of the OEM covers. I think this was pushing the cover up and giving me a slight oil leak.

Thankfully nothing serious, just a little shine to the rocker arms(!)


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So I'm glad I decided to upgrade valve covers - the 1.8 rocker arms were just barely kissing the internal baffles of the OEM covers. I think this was pushing the cover up and giving me a slight oil leak.

Thankfully nothing serious, just a little shine to the rocker arms(!)

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Just for curiosities sake; What is the Rocker Arm Ratio for the exhaust side?

Here are the valve events for your camshaft:
Do they include the 1.8:1 Intake RR on the intake
side?

Cam: 234 / 252, 0.641 / 0.648 lift, 119 lsa

So with a 1.8:1 Rocker Arm Ratio, that would
put the 'Lobe Lift' at only 0.356". . .

So know continuing to become 'Nosy..lol' what is the
Rocker Arm Ratio for the exhaust side?
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,100 ·
1.8 all around

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