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Thank you as always duck for the input. The car is generally always ran on e85 or torco e98. As karch points out, the DA here sucks and so does the heat lol.

I’ve been going through research to see what power level people have achieved my desired ET’s at and then trying to plan for the right parts.
With the stock LSA Engine Block, and E85, 750 HP would be where I stop (JMHO)!

Again, just my opinion:
Your dealing with an engine, having an internal engine volume of 376 cid.
100% cylinder fill will yield about 765 hp, to maybe 785 hp.

An engine equipped with a roots blower, is essentially an NA
Engine, having a big fan blowing air into the intake manifold.

So the roots blowers tend to give up, and generate far too much heat,
as the engine reaches 100% cylinder fill.
***So the solution here is to use an oxygenated fuel, which
helps to keep the induction system tract cool.

If you desire more HP, and If your going to stay with a roots blower,
then move to a larger cid engine. But you will also have to move to
a larger internal volume roots blower also.

Got It!.. :eek:
 
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I think , at least from the research I’ve done, I can achieve what I want with 700-750whp. Want to make sure I have some good flowing heads, go tubing cam, and I’m contemplating having the stock blower ported as you advised the magnuson was not a good idea when staying stock cubes.
I don’t see the point in trying to bore out the lsa as it would probably make more sense to go lsx at that point. But again I would refer to your input on that
 

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Karch I’ve actually been contemplating that also as a possibility. Don’t have any experience running a nitrous car. Nitrous bikes yes
 

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Thank you as always duck for the input. The car is generally always ran on e85 or torco e98. As karch points out, the DA here sucks and so does the heat lol.

I’ve been going through research to see what power level people have achieved my desired ET’s at and then trying to plan for the right parts.
The Torco will not help keep the intake tract temperatures down.
Therefore, the cylinder temps will be higher, and more prone to self-detonation.
***And cylinders that won't stay round, also allow oil into the cylinders.
Oil in your cylinders reduces the octane rating of your fuel.

-regarding hp improvements of e85 over pump gas-
With these engines, the hp difference is typically around +75 HP,
to +100 HP over an engine using gasoline.
 

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I think , at least from the research I’ve done, I can achieve what I want with 700-750whp. Want to make sure I have some good flowing heads, go tubing cam, and I’m contemplating having the stock blower ported as you advised the magnuson was not a good idea when staying stock cubes.
I don’t see the point in trying to bore out the lsa as it would probably make more sense to go lsx at that point. But again I would refer to your input on that
"go tubing cam"
And do you have the valve events for this cam..lol
 

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😂😂😂 lmfao. Auto correct. GP tuning cam is what I meant
 
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Duck what’s your opinion on meth injection as I have it on my list of possible additional mods
 

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Duck what’s your opinion on meth injection as I have it on my list of possible additional mods
Meth is better than E85.
It can be used, very beneficially along with E85. . .

A combination of Meth, E85 and Toluene will not only
help keep the intake tract and cylinders cool, but also
helps to increase the MON level of the Oxygenated
fuel via the Toluene.

------------------------------------------------------

Here is an old post I made on this subject. . .
Some additional comments to my last post regarding RON - MON Sensitivity:

The octane rating is a measure of that particular fuel’s resistance to auto ignition. The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions.

MON is the rating for a fuel when the engine is under a load.
As your compression ratio is increased, either 'Static or Dynamic' MON is what helps

Methanol equals (133 + 105)= 119 Octane Rating
Toluene equals (124 + 112)= 118 Octane Rating

Toluene is denser than ordinary gasoline (0.87 g/mL vs. 0.72-0.74) and contains more energy per unit volume. Thus combustion of toluene leads to more energy being liberated and thus more power generated. This is in contrast to oxygenated octane boosters like ethanol or MTBE which contain less energy per unit volume compared to gasoline.

BURNING RATE is the speed at which a fuel burns and releases its heat energy. At higher RPM's there is less time for fuel to burn, so racing fuels tend to work better if they have a rapid burning rate. If a fuel can be almost completely burned by the time the crankshaft is 20 degrees after TDC (Top Dead Center) on the engine power stroke, peak horsepower and engine efficiency are realized.

LATENT HEAT of VAPORIZATION is the ability of a fuel to cool the intake charge and the combustion chamber. It is often expressed as BTU's/gal (British Thermal Units per gallon). A fuel with a high latent heat value will do a better job of removing heat. This makes the intake charge more dense and packs more energy per volume into the engine. The cooling effect also helps control detonation and reduces the temperatures of engine and oiling system components.

ENERGY VALUE is an expression of the total heat energy contained in a given amount of a fuel, expressed as British Thermal Units per pound (BTU/lb). The total amount of heat energy that is available to make horsepower depends on the Net Energy Value of the fuel. This is found by taking the raw energy value of the fuel and then multiplying that by the amount of fuel that can be burned. The ideal air/fuel ratio for a fuel is called its stoichiometric. The lower the stoichiometric, the more fuel is burned and the more power can be produced.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

As boost pressure goes up so does heat within the cylinders.
You can't measure this with your IAT's. . . .

So an Oxygenated Fuel can help as when it burns it
releases oxygen which in turn cools the temperature
within the cylinders.

E85 and Methanol are oxygenated fuels.
They have a very good RON Rating.

Toluene is not an oxygenated fuel but has a
very high MON rating.

People have been mixing Meth and Toluene together for years.

But don't overdo it, because if one uses to much Toluene
the engine won't perform when it is cold and is very difficult
to start.

Also, if you slow down the burn rate to much you will
simply burn the Toluene in the exhaust system.

Cheers
 

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Duck that was a very helpful post. Much appreciated. I have been looking at the simple meth kits to spray pre blower as a way to help with heat. I’ve also looked at kits like the prometh that are setup for pre and post boost. I was reading some old posts on here late last night where I think people were recommending starting simple (ie nozzle in intake) and then adding more later if the desired effect was not achieved. If I’m reading your post correctly, it would seem you are insinuating that using meth/tol as an octane booster as well as a cooling agent. Which would lead me to believe you would most likely recommend something other than the basic kit?
 
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Duck that was a very helpful post. Much appreciated. I have been looking at the simple meth kits to spray pre blower as a way to help with heat. I’ve also looked at kits like the prometh that are setup for pre and post boost. I was reading some old posts on here late last night where I think people were recommending starting simple (ie nozzle in intake) and then adding more later if the desired effect was not achieved.
The Meth 'Must Be' distributed evenly within the intake manifold, or you will not be able to safely tune for max HP.
 

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For those that might desire to read up on priority oiling,
the following link is a good read.

Priority Oiling has now been obsoleted:
Tire Wheel Car Shoe Outerwear


Sorry Jesse, @random84 I could not find one with 'Boobs':

But as an alternative, I thought you might like this one..;)
Muscle Brassiere Swimwear Waist Lingerie top
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Anyone run a Moroso 22118 or Melling 10294? Those are both lower volume standard pressure pumps designed specifically for priority main oiling blocks. Thompson is recommending the Moroso 22120 high pressure high volume and it is required to be purchased if I want a warranty on the block. Still waiting to hear back if they’ll warranty the block with the priority main oil pump.
 

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Id never use a LSA again. Walls are too thin. I prefer iron 6.0. Its only 100# weight difference. You dont notice it.
I also used a 6.0 iron block, bored/stroked to a 408, forged internals, 2650 Kong blower, made just over 1000whp. It was a great driver, drove it to get dinner, went on vacation, to the beach, to the track, with no problems at all, great motor set up.
 
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@rubberduck @Karch wanted to say thanks for all the input. Found a pro meth lid kit for sale locally that I think I’m going to pick up depending on how much he wants for it. Hoping this helps with some of the AZ heat issues. Getting real sick of running low 11’s. I know there’s a couple things I need to change to help that but after talking to you guys I don’t think meth will hurt given I’m building for more power down the road anyway
 
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@rubberduck @Karch wanted to say thanks for all the input. Found a pro meth lid kit for sale locally that I think I’m going to pick up depending on how much he wants for it. Hoping this helps with some of the AZ heat issues. Getting real sick of running low 11’s. I know there’s a couple things I need to change to help that but after talking to you guys I don’t think meth will hurt given I’m building for more power down the road anyway
The simple solution is; to make more horsepower, you need to pull more air into the engine.

To pull more air into the engine, with a simple roots blower, one needs to increase the engine rpm.

However, more horsepower generates more heat, so one needs to control the additional heat…

Same thing with the blower; to push more air into the engine, one needs to increase the pulley ratios, or the rate at which we overdrive the blower.

However, just as with the engine, as we increase the RPM of the blower, we also generate more heat…
 
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@rubberduck @Karch wanted to say thanks for all the input. Found a pro meth lid kit for sale locally that I think I’m going to pick up depending on how much he wants for it. Hoping this helps with some of the AZ heat issues. Getting real sick of running low 11’s. I know there’s a couple things I need to change to help that but after talking to you guys I don’t think meth will hurt given I’m building for more power down the road anyway
I am curious who you are buying it off of? Perhaps it’s the first kit ever made for a ZL1 lid. I sent it, it was mine, a few years ago in exchange for some drag radials.


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