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Discussion Starter #1
Kicking this thread off…to hold me accountable and satisfy an odd urge to type just a bit…

I’ll be breaking down how to break-down the TR6060, replace shafts, bearings, races, blocker rings (really anything in the transmission, as you end up disassembling to bare shafts and an empty case, with some fittings still installed).

Then I’ll step through the rebuild, the associated hiccups, shimming the case, reinstalling all of the splined gears, synchros, and output coupler.

Hopefully this will fully instruct the backyard DIYer, without a ton of fancy tools, how to service their Tremec successfully!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Alright let’s get to crackin..
Tools you need:
-Ball Pean Hammer (I dunno, at least 16 oz?)
-1/8” punch
-10, 13, 15, 17, 30 mm sockets (1/2” impact preferred, plus sizes for your pullers)
-15 mm combination wrench (and whatever you may need to drive your pullers)
-Impact Wrench (pneumatic, unless your Li tools have comparable torque output)
-90 Degree Pick
-Two standard 3 jaw pullers (or a puller with comparable reach, max reach needed is 18-20”)
-Bearing Splitter (A nice one for the bearings, HF one can be used for the 20” deep pull operation)
-Robust Snap ring pliers like the following: Link (I used channelocks with the pins flipped, below)

I have attached an assy and BOM I found from a Mustang (roast away) the only difference I see is in the tailhousing/shift linkage area; I have detailed pictures of the V setup when different.

The transmission should be vertical for this work, trust me! Any orientations I mention of the transmission will be in its installed state though (top, bottom, side etc…) On our version of the TR6060, the bell housing incorporates the front plate of the transmission. I welded up a rectangle made of angle iron and bolted it to my engine stand, I used a 2X4 to brace the fixture to the stand frame. The setup was strong enough without the wood support, but it adds stability and is suggested.

I drilled a hole in the fixture frame to secure the bellhousing to it. This was done with some M10 threaded rod I already had lying around from one of my tool creations. I also installed a threaded rod through another bell housing hole inside the frame so the transmission could not rotate around the First threaded rod, and off of the frame. The hole is in the front right corner as pictured.



Doing it over, I’d suggest you go ahead and remove all of the solenoids, sensors, shift detents, shaft retention screws, etc… It all has to come off eventually! Set them aside somewhere safe and secure while you bust this thing open!









These two T40 screws come from the two lower holes in the case in the following pic.





(Add reverse lockout and shift detent pics)

Using the impact and 30mm socket, remove the nut securing the output coupler in place. You can then use the three jaw puller, short config, large ends down to remove the coupler from its splined shaft, The puller can run against the end of the output shaft with some liberal application of anti-sieze and careful consideration depending on the end on your puller…



Now you need to drive the coiled pin through the back of the shift linkage, until you can remove it.





Remove the tail housing bolts (qty 8) with the 15mm socket (and combo wrench on the two on the bottom)

Remove the cover from the rear of the transmission.





Now you can start removing items from the output shaft…Make sure you establish a method of layout, for me I pulled the parts and laid them out in the same orientation with which they came off the shaft. There is a small BB under the Speedo rotor (39/40 P.3 BOM PDF) I used a magnet to remove that BB.



Drive the pin through on the reverse lockout attachment and remove. Drive the pin through on the shift gate (just below), it has to be removed with the case!



From here you should remove everything down to 5th gear (24) on the output shaft. Everything until the synchro (28) is held on by snap rings (and one split ring just above 5th gear). These snap rings are beefy as hell. You either need some nice Lisle (or equivalent) of the style that look like revers needle nose (stepped teeth on the tool) or some creativity. The pin style pliers wont cut it. I took a pair of channelocks and flipped the points with hexs out so that I could remove the rings safely.



The synchro (28) must be removed with a puller along the way, you can just catch the lip of the synchros in each of three spaces that house the plastic ball bearing detent style components.



Now remove the snap rings and components from the countershaft until you cannot anymore. The 6th gear on the countershaft cannot be removed until 5th gear is pulled from the output. This is where creativity is your friend. I oriented my puller as below to pull 5th gear (last pic in this section). 6th can stay on until the case is removed.

Removing reverse



Split ring over 5th



Pulller for 5th (use an impact on the puller once tight)



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now you can remove the rest of the components on the countershaft and are ready to split the case. The transmission should look as below if you are ready to pull the case. (With the exception of the piece shown in second pic. That can stay on the 5/6 shift fork rail actually)





Remove all of the bell housing to case bolts and shimmy the case off. All of the shift fork rails and shafts should stay in place. If it is not coming apart, you likely missed something from the first step of removing the various detent/solenoid/shift fork shaft retention screws. Set the case somewhere safe. You can now pull the shafts and shift fork rails out of the transmission and continue teardown. The countershaft is done at this point unless it is being replaced, or the bearings are. You will need a sharp bearing splitter and press to remove the CS bearings. The front bearing can be pulled in one piece, the rear case bearing (middle for the shaft, there is a rear thrust bearing in the tail housing) is damn near impossible to get under and not tear the cage up while removing.

(CS pics)

With the HF bearing splitter/puller set, you can remove 6th gear as shown below. Unfortunately you must tear the output shaft all the way down to replace the 1st/2nd blocker rings. Once 6th is out of the way, you have encountered a bear of a bearing to remove!! I do not have a press and did not have a good splitter at my disposal. I ended up cutting through the majority of the race with a carbide burr (Race steel is hard as hell and will do a number on any tool). I could then use a thin chisel to break the race loose, get a splitter behind it, and press it off.



(OS large bearing)

Fortunately, the 1st/2nd synchro is held in place with a snap ring and the bearing is the last piece that requires a press or puller. Remove the 3rd/4th synchro from the front end of the OS if you have not done so already (you can do this before worrying about the rear case bearing (21)) and you are done with tear down.
 

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Reserved for ridicule and harrassment
 

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Reserved to make inappropriate innuendo about OP's totally hot spouse; and maybe some "little frank" n' beans jokes.
 

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Reserved for sarcasm and general cuntery
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Reserved to make inappropriate innuendo about OP's totally hot spouse; and maybe some "little frank" n' beans jokes.
Y'all some funny Em Effers this AM hunh? Lolol....I learned the 'reserved' bit from you Sir Jesse of Cuntston!

You wouldn't be the first to wish I had a small peen to balance out my other obvious blessings ;) God enjoys 'A Little' irony, it would seem!

Carry on!
 

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Reserved to make inappropriate innuendo about OP's totally hot spouse; and maybe some "little frank" n' beans jokes.
Lol happens to me Everytime people see my spouse

Sent from a misfiring cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Umm...tell me more please. No, not about the frank n' beans.
Show me yours and I'll show you mine...still not about frank n' beans...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think we can work that out, but I don't want to clog up your thread with sexy chic pics. ;) I think anyone else wants that either.

Good luck with your project, should be interesting to follow.
Thanks RedTXV!

With any luck I'll be reinstalling my drivetrain next weekend and only waiting on pushrods to fire it up!
 

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Should we reserve a thread for the start up?




Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Should we reserve a thread for the start up?




Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Lol. I believe that's build thread worthy. Here I am trying to post a nice tranny thread, and you're busting my balls...there should be plenty of opportunity for you to roast me then!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im a dumbass...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you PM pics of your wife to the wrong member?!?!
Forgot I reserved replies for the details...didnt know there was a 20 pic limit though!!
 

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Forgot I reserved replies for the details...didnt know there was a 20 pic limit though!!
Copy over your first post and that gives you three (60 pics). I feel you on the pic limit tho, brah!

And I know we are all thinking it every time we see this thread bumped... so I'm just going to go ahead and put this here:

 
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