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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
09 with 114k Iv been using vr1 10w30 and the longer truck filter. After the cars fully warmed up at wot 6700rpm I’m getting anywhere between 43-45psi call it mid 40s , 60 to 140mph. After 3 pulls idle is mid 20s and normal driving is mid/upper30s. Is my wot too low? Or am I just paranoid? When I let off after a pull it’ll climb to high 40s. I change my oil often since I’m running e. Cold is always high 40s and low 50s.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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I think you are perfectly fine with that pressure as long as it is not bouncing around at WOT in the too low area. Keep in mind, cavitation can occur with oil pumps not rated with sufficient flow which can be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wot is always in the 40s fully warmed up. After my 3 pulls today idle was mid 20s but it was also 60 ambient temp. When it was 85 outside idle was always in the mid to low 20s. I just feel like at 4500rpm thru 6800 I would be seeing at least 50 psi
 

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i thought those were limited to the mid 40's psi pressure with the bypass they have ? which is why some remove and block the bypass to get better pressure up top, i think rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah the spec is usually 10psi per 1k rpm. That should mean at the top of my gears I should be seeing alot higher pressure you’d think. I found this on
Chevy website for lsa crate specs:

Oil pressure, (minimum with hot oil)
6 psig @ 1000 RPM
18 psig @ 2000 RPM
24 psig @ 4000 RPM
 

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10-30 is good u may be a smidge lower with it but that is a good thing as more is flowing thru the engine and not causing pressure (restriction) id rather have more flow then pressure, i think factory has a bypass too so u will never get to 50psi but u will have good flow they use a higher flow as u also have the piston squirters, just over 6300 rpm i think it is the stock pumps can cavitate
 

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The oil pump bypass is set to about 45PSI so it isn't going above that no matter how high you spin it.
The bypass that resides in the oil pan of DOD-equipped LS engines is NOT used on the LSA.

If you are paranoid, you probably should not Google LSA Main Bearings> images...

It seems to be a theme that high-mileage LSAs gradually consume their mains.

It seems accepted fact that the LSA's crank flexes (whips) and some speculate that it is caused by the blower drive... and how far out mounts(?)

It IS possible to refresh tired mains in-car, they say
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The oil pump bypass is set to about 45PSI so it isn't going above that no matter how high you spin it.
The bypass that resides in the oil pan of DOD-equipped LS engines is NOT used on the LSA.

If you are paranoid, you probably should not Google LSA Main Bearings> images...

It seems to be a theme that high-mileage LSAs gradually consume their mains.

It seems accepted fact that the LSA's crank flexes (whips) and some speculate that it is caused by the blower drive... and how far out mounts(?)

It IS possible to refresh tired mains in-car, they say
Oh I’m aware of the bearing issues, friend going through it right now. I guess I would have thought the pump bypass would be set to 55psi not 45. I just went thru and looked at all my logs after 3 back to back passes calculated oil temp was 207 and during my last pull pressure stayed 43.5 -44.5 thru the entire pull. Pretty much over 1k rpm driving normal I’m in the high 30s
 

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if i have confidence in my tuner I listen to what they say, but I feel 10w vs 5w is old school thinking, unless you are in a year round warmer climate and driving conditions. I rather have that 5w when its a bit cooler out and for cold starts
 

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After my 45min log and 3 60-140 pulls. Calc oil temp 199. Idle psi 27-28 in park, in gear looks like 26.5ish
That sounds respectable. I was concerned it might be in the teens... not that a number in the teens would be harmful it itself...but that it would be a bad sign for long term planning.
 
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