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Evening,

I just bought an 09 CTS-V. Full exhaust, 2.4 upper, cam all supporting mods makes 648/646 on e85. Long story short, I've had it about 2 weeks now. I changed the oil sat and put my dash readout on the oil pressure (didn't think to check before the change) cold start up is right where it should be 52-54. Once hot though idle 750ish is at 17-18. Normal driving is about 40- 42 right at 2k rpm. Getting on it it's in the 50s.. I've had alot of ls motors and my last vette I cammed it idled right about 25 to 27 so I'm alittle worried especially after reading about all the spun bearings in these LSA's. I'm gonna cut open the old filter tomorrow and check it out. Anybody got any suggestions? Am I the only one thinking that's low at idle? No other sounds and oil looked normal coming out but I didn't filter it either.. I changed it with 5w30 mobile 1 synthetic, not my first choice but already had it. Was thinking about putting a mechanical gauge on it too just need to get an adapter to hook it up.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Upgrade to Redline, plenty of well-heeded advice on using it once the valvetrain/cam get upgraded. M1 is for stock engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Upgrade to Redline, plenty of well-heeded advice on using it once the valvetrain/cam get upgraded. M1 is for stock engines.
Yeah after what I read tonight I'll be switching. I'm just hoping it not a bearing. Shit like this makes me crazy so I went out and cut the filter from saturday in half. It actually looked good, nothing I could see at all...
 

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^ this.

Replace the m1 with quality oil. Redline, ams, the good Castrol, penn, royal purp, just something decent. M1 just doesn’t act right in built or cammed cars. 10 psi low at idle is Textbook mobilshit.
 

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M1 5w-30 is garbage. Go to a good 5w-40 like Redline. I use Rotella T6 and its cheap and my most recent oil report was good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’m 34-35 psi hot


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I'm definitely gonna switch but I really don't see it going from 17 to 35. Viscosity is the only thing that will up pressure and I'm sure they aren't that much more. I'm wondering if this isn't signs of a oil pump failure or something else has worn and blocked the intake tube up some. Either way it's not good but I would much rather take it out now and forge it before I have to end up paying 2k for a new block..
 

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New oil isn't going to cure an obvious lingering issue. 17psi idle isn't danger low but its lower than I would feel comfortable in pushing a car. My last one ran like a champ and sometimes saw lower 20's but it never dropped that low. Sounds like the start of a bearing issue so let us know how the filter cutaway looks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
New oil isn't going to cure an obvious lingering issue. 17psi idle isn't danger low but its lower than I would feel comfortable in pushing a car. My last one ran like a champ and sometimes saw lower 20's but it never dropped that low. Sounds like the start of a bearing issue so let us know how the filter cutaway looks.
I did the cut away and it's super clean. Couldn't find a single speck of anything metal/shiny. Wondering if I shouldn't just pull the motor and look at forging it. Maybe it was caught early enough and the block is still good.
 

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I did the cut away and it's super clean. Couldn't find a single speck of anything metal/shiny. Wondering if I shouldn't just pull the motor and look at forging it. Maybe it was caught early enough and the block is still good.
Any chance the o-ring is pinched on the oil pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I did the cut away and it's super clean. Couldn't find a single speck of anything metal/shiny. Wondering if I shouldn't just pull the motor and look at forging it. Maybe it was caught early enough and the block is still good.
Any chance the o-ring is pinched on the oil pump?
Yeah that's what I was thinking at first but when I talked to the previous owner he didn't touch the oil pump during the cam swap. Only way I'll know is if I pull it and check. Seems unlikely though.

Honestly I wouldn't mind driving it till it went then just build it. but then the block would probably turn into a boat anchor and it would add 2k. Im gonna talk to a local machine shop and see how much it would cost to forge it and roll.
 

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Evening,

I just bought an 09 CTS-V. Full exhaust, 2.4 upper, cam all supporting mods makes 648/646 on e85. Long story short, I've had it about 2 weeks now. I changed the oil sat and put my dash readout on the oil pressure (didn't think to check before the change) cold start up is right where it should be 52-54. Once hot though idle 750ish is at 17-18. Normal driving is about 40- 42 right at 2k rpm. Getting on it it's in the 50s.. I've had alot of ls motors and my last vette I cammed it idled right about 25 to 27 so I'm alittle worried especially after reading about all the spun bearings in these LSA's. I'm gonna cut open the old filter tomorrow and check it out. Anybody got any suggestions? Am I the only one thinking that's low at idle? No other sounds and oil looked normal coming out but I didn't filter it either.. I changed it with 5w30 mobile 1 synthetic, not my first choice but already had it. Was thinking about putting a mechanical gauge on it too just need to get an adapter to hook it up.

Thanks for the help!
As others have said, use a quality oil when you change it.

My thoughts: your cold psi and hot psi under load (ie not idling) look decent for the oil and weight. Let's face it, you have an `09 that probably has 70+k miles on it, so there's going to be wear and tear. You don't know how the previous driver(s) treated the car, or if they took care of it, OR if they changed the oil and filter right before you took delivery... which they probably did because everyone checks the oil when buying a used car.

So, the only thing that is questionable is: how many miles do YOU have on the car before pulling the filter? And your hot-idle psi is lower than typical, but I would say for a well used V with M1 5w30, my expected idle pressure is 20-25psi and you're damn close.

Going to a quality oil such as Redline 5w30 is more viscous than M1 of the same weight, so you'll likely notice a few psi increase right there. Redline 5w40 is acceptable but IMHO is on the thick side for a daily / stock bearing clearances IF you see really cold weather (but should be fine for the summer) - and really, what's the point of chasing a specific PSI with heavier weight oil only to increase cold-start wear characteristics? You're not hot-lapping on a road course I take it, so typical street driving simply won't stress the 5w30 enough (ie heat and shear) to justify a heavier weight oil with worse cold-start performance.

I also would be wary of confidence in the oil filter test if you only have a few hundred miles on it, but at the end of the day if you have "reasonable" oil pressure using an appropriate oil for the bearing clearances, there is likely no reason to increase oil weight just to feel better about the dash readout.

In short, I would suggest continuing with a 5w30 and see how it goes. If your engine soon fails on a redline 5w30, it was going to fail no matter what oil/weight you pick and there's no sense in worrying about it. Drive the car, monitor the oil and filters with ~3k mile changes and hope for the best!
 

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Mine ran around this same hot pressure for a while and had me worried. After a few hard pulls / launches it dropped to around 10-12psi hot.

Pulled the engine to find two spun main bearings.

Good luck on what you find out!

FWIW - I ran Redline 5w30
 

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Discussion Starter #15
[/QUOTE]

As others have said, use a quality oil when you change it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the response. I agree with all of that and the pressure will probably go up to maybe 21 to 23 with redline from what I've read. Like you said though it is used right at 100k. I've had several ls motors at 100k though and never had pressure this low.

I don't know if the previous owner messed up a bearing when installing the cam, failed lifter, whatever.. normally I wouldn't mind just driving it till it blows but most other ls blocks are still salvageable when they pop. I'd rather fix it now while I have a chance of saving the block. From what ive read alot of lsa have main bearings that go and then your out 2k for a block. The flip side is everything is fine and I spend 3k on the motor for nothing.. the car also came with 15 time slips all around 10.5 so it's been ran!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mine ran around this same hot pressure for a while and had me worried. After a few hard pulls / launches it dropped to around 10-12psi hot.

Pulled the engine to find two spun main bearings.

Good luck on what you find out!

FWIW - I ran Redline 5w30
Was the block any good?
 

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Mines about 30-35 psi hot at idle with amsoil signature series 5w30 with over 89k miles
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Well haven't had time to put the mechanical gauge on yet but I did get a quote to rebuild my long block with forged pistons and rods and all new everything else minus the crank for 2800. Seems pretty good to me. I'm still gonna put the gauge on it but I think this is the way to go.
 

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Your joking right? Have you changed to a decent oil yet? Seriously you underestimate the m1. It’s awful. I mean.... seriously op, why haven’t you down so the last few days?
 
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