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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bought a 2012 cts v sedan at Simpson Buick of Buena Park in February of 2020 with 110k got it for 24k one owner. Took the V in for an oil change in November, this week saw a small drop of oil in the V’s parking spot I looked under and there was oil between trans and motor. But the stealership worker noticed some coming from the top passenger side. Really hoping it’s a valve cover. I know there was a TBS on 09 for rms. Are these know for a lot of blow by? Also any suggestion on camming this v which is now @117k
 

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Stick your hand down by the back of the valve covers, cooled down obviously. The gaskets shouldn't be bad just give them a little snug down if they're indeed wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Stick your hand down by the back of the valve covers, cooled down obviously. The gaskets shouldn't be bad just give them a little snug down if they're indeed wet.
Thanks for the info I’m hoping it’s not the rear main seal I left the car at the stealer ship. Guess it’s time for a cam zl1 lid some injectors lol
 

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Any drivability issues? I have an auto with the rms seeping will I have the torque converter slipping?
Rear main leaking will have no effect on the TC slipping. The TC clutch is contained within the converter housing and never see's the light of day.

Like said, tighten down the valve cover bolts if you feel oil around the sealing area. Or just replace them. It's super easy to do and you can inspect your rocker arms and such while you're doing so.

I would also 100% recommend you cam the car. Matt's Stg II or my personal favorite Stg 2.5 would be nice. You could swap out the balancer with an ATI balancer (8.10" pulley) while you're in there. Probably do injectors at the same time since the larger lower pulley is going to increase flow, as will the cam, especially those two together and no way stock injectors will handle those together.

With your mileage, you should consider installing better lifters. Moveing to a Johnson 2110 would be a nice piece of mind. Of course, this requires the heads to come off. Not sure if you feel comfortable in doing this yourself. The cam and head removal would run a good bit of $$ in labor cost. However.....it's not that hard really.

Once you do all that, you'll be on the right path to converting your V into a pro-mod. lol. Good luck with it and also...........................POST PHOTOS!!!! Fuck.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Rear main leaking will have no effect on the TC slipping. The TC clutch is contained within the converter housing and never see's the light of day.

Like said, tighten down the valve cover bolts if you feel oil around the sealing area. Or just replace them. It's super easy to do and you can inspect your rocker arms and such while you're doing so.

I would also 100% recommend you cam the car. Matt's Stg II or my personal favorite Stg 2.5 would be nice. You could swap out the balancer with an ATI balancer (8.10" pulley) while you're in there. Probably do injectors at the same time since the larger lower pulley is going to increase flow, as will the cam, especially those two together and no way stock injectors will handle those together.

With your mileage, you should consider installing better lifters. Moveing to a Johnson 2110 would be a nice piece of mind. Of course, this requires the heads to come off. Not sure if you feel comfortable in doing this yourself. The cam and head removal would run a good bit of $$ in labor cost. However.....it's not that hard really.

Once you do all that, you'll be on the right path to converting your V into a pro-mod. lol. Good luck with it and also...........................POST PHOTOS!!!! Fuck.
JAustin thanks for the info really appreciate it. Just got a call from the stealership ( that’s the reason I have no pics) not the rear main seal it was the oil cooler. Will be replaced thanks to the extended warranty I purchased should have it back mañana.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rear main leaking will have no effect on the TC slipping. The TC clutch is contained within the converter housing and never see's the light of day.

Like said, tighten down the valve cover bolts if you feel oil around the sealing area. Or just replace them. It's super easy to do and you can inspect your rocker arms and such while you're doing so.

I would also 100% recommend you cam the car. Matt's Stg II or my personal favorite Stg 2.5 would be nice. You could swap out the balancer with an ATI balancer (8.10" pulley) while you're in there. Probably do injectors at the same time since the larger lower pulley is going to increase flow, as will the cam, especially those two together and no way stock injectors will handle those together.

With your mileage, you should consider installing better lifters. Moveing to a Johnson 2110 would be a nice piece of mind. Of course, this requires the heads to come off. Not sure if you feel comfortable in doing this yourself. The cam and head removal would run a good bit of $$ in labor cost. However.....it's not that hard really.

Once you do all that, you'll be on the right path to converting your V into a pro-mod. lol. Good luck with it and also...........................POST PHOTOS!!!! Fuck.
148750
 

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Oh you got the sedan, good move, it's the faster model of the CTS-Vs.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Oh you got the sedan, good move, it's the faster model of the CTS-Vs.
So got the car back from the stealership! replaced the oil cooler is what they did but there is the same amount of oil on the oil filter location and just as much on the other side of it. Inspected the valve covers looks like the screw where the grommets go are leaking bad. These douche bags did the uv oil leak test and assumed that the oil cooler was the culprit. What should I do. To top it of warranty didn’t cover my shit so I paid 1100 bucks
148764
148765
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What is that white Epoxy looking stuff on your bottom oil pan?

I mean I like the cake but I don’t bring it with me when I’m working under the car!
Bro I have no fucking clue! Looks like silicone maybe dented the oil pan? What should I do?
 

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The oil pan is cast aluminum, it won't dent, but would crack if anything. Get yer ass back to the dealer and raise some hell. Point out the leaking grommets as the source of the oil sweats and get them to reverse the charges.
 

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Bro I have no fucking clue! Looks like silicone maybe dented the oil pan? What should I do?
JL87, I would take it back to the dealer and ask to speak with the service manager re your issues. The silicon on the oil pan (if so) is of great concern to me. If they try to blow you off start raising hell in front of other customers. That normally gets their attention to take action.
I too bought a 2011 white diamond sedan like yours in May of 2020. Had 94k miles and was a one owner. I do all my own maintenance/repairs but have had my car at Simpson twice for repairs. First time was in June 2020 to have the SC replaced under warranty sand again in Nov to have the rear end replaced again under a extended warranty purchased through my credit union at purchase.
I live in BP just off of Valleyview and La Palma Ave, where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
JL87, I would take it back to the dealer and ask to speak with the service manager re your issues. The silicon on the oil pan (if so) is of great concern to me. If they try to blow you off start raising hell in front of other customers. That normally gets their attention to take action.
I too bought a 2011 white diamond sedan like yours in May of 2020. Had 94k miles and was a one owner. I do all my own maintenance/repairs but have had my car at Simpson twice for repairs. First time was in June 2020 to have the SC replaced under warranty sand again in Nov to have the rear end replaced again under a extended warranty purchased through my credit union at purchase.
I live in BP just off of Valleyview and La Palma Ave, where are you located?
I stay near the downtown Los Angeles area. So traveling to Buena Park is not so convenient for me. Plus they keep the car for roughly 5 days I get stuck having to uber to & from work. Car was good until I got my 1st oil change then all this crap started. Maybe used some cheap conventional oil? Filter doesn’t even look like an acdelco.
 

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Holy shit those valve covers are covered in crud. I almost thought they were painted at first. That's like work truck territory though. I wonder if there's something wrong with the pcv system, or maybe someone had the covers off at some point and popped the grommets out with the bolts like a dick.
 

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Who changed the oil, Simpson?
If so and there were no prior issues I would go off on everyone at that dealer including top management. Something happen during that service and now they have you chasing someone's fuck up. The drain plug is right at the rear base of the oil pan and if it were leaking it could appear to be leaking from the rear seal. The silicone on the pan concerns me and yes your valve covers look very dirty. I'm comparing them to mine as we are like years and mileage. My engine is super clean compared to yor pics. Sux they raped you for $1100. If in the area anytime soon stop by and I'll take a look at it for ya.
 

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Who changed the oil, Simpson?
If so and there were no prior issues I would go off on everyone at that dealer including top management. Something happen during that service and now they have you chasing someone's fuck up. The drain plug is right at the rear base of the oil pan and if it were leaking it could appear to be leaking from the rear seal. The silicone on the pan concerns me and yes your valve covers look very dirty. I'm comparing them to mine as we are like years and mileage. My engine is super clean compared to yor pics. Sux they raped you for $1100. If in the area anytime soon stop by and I'll take a look at it for ya.
Send me a pm I’ll meet you somewhere chop it up see if we can see what the fuck those pricks at Simpson did. Also got a bad idle in park. Bouncing from 600 to 750ish oil pressure 25 to 27 psi while it’s idling rough
 
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