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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I’d start my build thread since it’s coming together quickly now. Here’s a list of everything I can remember going on or already on the car. I’m also working with aeromotive to develop a drop in fuel system for the V.

2012 V
-stock lsa block
-k1 rods
-wiseco pistons
-stock crank
-tool steel wrist pins
-btr stage 2 twin turbo cam
-arp rod bolts, cam bolts, crank bolt, main studs, head studs
-unported lsa heads with dual valve springs
-Johnson lifters
-comp push rods
-ls3 intake
-stock trans
-Huron speed twin turbo kit
-turbosmart race port bov
-turbosmart 45 lite Wastegates
-turbosmart eboost2 controller
-lingenfelter 2 step
-comp air cooled 6467’s
-billet motor mounts
-Huron speed turbo back exhaust
-ID 1700x injectors
-aeromotive prototype fuel system
-total seal piston rings
-ls9 head gaskets
-aem obd2 wideband
-trunion rocker bearing upgrade
-ati harmonic balancer
-e85
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Well you'll recoup a couple of dollar with your old SC and lid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
decided to get rid of the cig lighter plug and add an aeroforce gauge since I never used that plug anyway. Still waiting on the machine shop for my engine which is supposed to be done in the next 2 weeks or so. Turbos are out 3-5 weeks and my fuel system should be done by august according to Aeromotive

151200
 

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I just got hard.

Looking forward to this, OP. Don't blue balls me like Morris did!

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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It’s a stock lsa block. Just plugging the oil squirters and adding rods and pistons. I’m gonna run this until it blows up and then I’ll go aftermarket block and heads
If things are clearanced for the power, it should last. Good idea plugging the squirters. IMO, forged pistons don't need them and they take away from oil volume when a high power engine needs it the most. I love the hardware chosen for this build. Keep us posted on updates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If things are clearanced for the power, it should last. Good idea plugging the squirters. IMO, forged pistons don't need them and they take away from oil volume when a high power engine needs it the most. I love the hardware chosen for this build. Keep us posted on updates!
That’s what my machinist was saying. It’s better to have the oil pressure at the mains. Thanks tho I’ve been trying to buy all the right stuff so I don’t have to do things twice or have things break and cost me more money in the long run
 

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Got the engine back and started putting it back together
View attachment 152607
Please tell me about the piston design, as well as how far down they are in the hole. . .

You wrote:
"It’s a stock lsa block. Just plugging the oil squirters and adding rods and pistons. I’m gonna run this until it blows up and then I’ll go aftermarket block and heads."

Go for it, you never know. . . .It Might Work..(y)

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Please tell me about the piston design, as well as how far down they are in the hole. . .

You wrote:
"It’s a stock lsa block. Just plugging the oil squirters and adding rods and pistons. I’m gonna run this until it blows up and then I’ll go aftermarket block and heads."

Go for it, you never know. . . .It Might Work..(y)

Cheers
I’m not 100% sure what you want me to tell you. Call wiseco and talk to them
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got the engine in and when mating the trans to it I heard a pop that sounded funny so I took the trans apart to inspect it. It was my first time doing anything and had help from a friend with explaining and checking stuff over messenger for me. I didn’t find anything broken so it’s going back in and we’ll see if it works or not. I’m running a stock converter/trans/driveshaft/axles for now and they will be part of the next upgrade cycle once I get the car running and moving under its own power and low boost. I also got my chute mount installed. My plan is to make a hitch attachment to pull a small trailer with to do things like Rocky Mountain race week and then I’ll pop the chute in at the track. I also have to either change my charge pipe or buy a Holley sniper intake because it turns out the kit is built for the sniper so the charge pipe doesn’t fit right
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