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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not much of a talker so I'm gonna keep this short and sweet.
1st time V owner from CA.
Raven Black 2010 CTS-V 95k miles. I will be doing almost all work/repairs to car and already have used this forum as quite a few times for information. I do have a few questions to ask everyone to hopefully get a better understanding of some issues I've run into.

1.When I recieved the car it had the S/C rattle. The extended warranty to replace the S/C from the dealer had already expired. the rattle has turned into a stomach churning grinding sound when i start the car until its warmed up. Should i buy the solid isolator? or since its now grinding am i looking at a S/C rebuild?

2. I have a gas leak. Smell it everytime i walk by the passanger (rear) side. thought it was the gas cap but when i checked there was no gas smell near the gas cap. Ive the seen the fuel pump access hatch videos but im stuck between that or taking the long route. Also im dont even know exactly where its leaking from. When i look under the vehicle there is fluid on the rear passanger area but its red. i assumed the red fluid was coming from the bolt that gets loose near the cam or drive shaft( dont rememebr exactly) but i remember seeing another thread on that issue.

3. I hear a metal sound, almost like the sound a ratchet makes, when i drive the car. i remember seeing the recall for the toe link jam nuts that were coming loose. i was curious if that recall was just for cts vehicles or did it involve the cts-v as well?

Ive had the car a few months and now have time to work on this beast. Ive already changed the oil, oil filter and just got a new drain pluga and gasket( oil keeps appearing on oil pan) ive replaced the valve cover gaskets because they were starting to leak but nothing serious and replaced the spark plugs. ive also cleaned my throttle body and MAF sensor and switched out the rear diff fluid. im working on the coolant today. this post is all over the place but any and all advice/information is greatly appreciated, thank you.
 

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Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
I plan on taking the belt off tonight and I will post update.
And I kinda figured that was the issue causing g the leak. Is there a fix without having to buy the new fuel pump or is it better to upgrade the fuel pump. If so what are some fuel pump upgrade options
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
So I took the super charger belt off and I started the car. No more grinding noise. When I spun the pulley by hand it wasn't chunky but it clicked. I'll see if I can post a video I
 

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So I took the super charger belt off and I started the car. No more grinding noise. When I spun the pulley by hand it wasn't chunky but it clicked. I'll see if I can post a video I
Has it had the warranty swap done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
Take the belt off the supercharger. Spin it by hand if it's crunchy, time for a rebuild.

Gas leak is more than likely the fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Common problem.
Has it had the warranty swap done?
My best guess would be no. None of the maintenence on vehicle was done at a dealer but some other shop and I can't find any service records. But the warranty also expired in Feb
2020
 

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My best guess would be no. None of the maintenence on vehicle was done at a dealer but some other shop and I can't find any service records. But the warranty also expired in Feb
2020
That is a shame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Should I still switch to a solid isolator should I just start looking for a rebuild kit?
 

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Just a data point, I to had the super charger rattle but squeaked in the last day of extended coverage and had it replaced at no cost. Upon check out the lady was nice enough to tell me what the dealer cost was, she told me $2080 ish for the replacement supercharger (labor included I think). Not sure if this helps but maybe a negotiation position if you take it to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Isolator is cheap and easy to swap so why not. You’ll want to do it anyway.
Because of the grinding noise the blower is making. Could that be the spring loaded isolator making the noise? Or a bigger issue?
 

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Hard to say, if it were real bad you may have chewed up a bearing. I was merely just saying for 50$ and maybe an hour of your time you’ll know for sure. If the noise is gone your golden if it’s not when you rebuild you’ll still want to put in a solid isolator so your not going to be out of pocket any more then you would have

like mentioned above, and depending on your plan for the car you could do the porting while your in there (assuming you need a rebuild) add a pulley etc
 

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@AG2010-V , he's right. Also If you do have to rebuild, you can go rebuilt ported blower, like Jokerz which I have, and never look back.
 
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The fuel leak is almost certainly the top fitting on the tank and is known around here as the "Fuel Hat Repair". Do a search, find the thread with the amazing write-up.
You do NOT have to change the fuel pumps to fix this. The write-up explains all.
 
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