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As an experiment I used a wrench and 3ft bar...tightened bolts as tight as I could (have spare bolts on hand). No movement for over a year (Granted it was slightly out of alignment at the time). Going to get it realigned and try the same thing again, if I can find a tq wrench that reads high enough I would like to see how many ft pounds it takes.

Nordlocks need to be almost double current size for them to work effectively in this situation


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There was a torque wrench thread in the general section. The nice thing about the Precision torque wrench many people in that thread, including myself, own and like is that it goes high enough to torque the control arm bolts. Though damn, I'm not the strongest person but reaching the torque on those things was some work. More than just I made it really tight would have been for sure.
 

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Just trying to avoid this





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That looks like a stripped bolt with reduced tension - as the bolt doesn't even clear the top of the nut with the nordlocks on both sides. I doubt one could get full torque with that minimal thread engagement?
 

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That looks like a stripped bolt with reduced tension - as the bolt doesn't even clear the top of the nut with the nordlocks on both sides. I doubt one could get full torque with that minimal thread engagement?
you scared me and I took the pic lol. I just removed the zerk fittings


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I think we all are my man...all of this empirical movement is not worth much when we haven't been following Nordlock torque standards...which are to add 10% approx.

When you look at how much of the tightening torque transmits to clamp load, the last 10% starts to get a lot more important.
 

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They just installed the nord locks and now getting the alignment. I’m so excited, LOL. They’ve been in the trunk for about 2 years.
 

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One of the guys on here is a part owner of a firestone tire in Glendale. We did it there today.
 

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I'd mark the suspension and try to tighten them further.

I just had an alignment redone after the first slipped out.

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I'd mark the suspension and try to tighten them further.

I just had an alignment redone after the first slipped out.

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This.

First go round, they weren't tight enough. Went back to check and they hadn't moved.
 

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Yea y'all really need to add some torques to account for increased joint friction. Giggity.
 

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I just ordered these from Grainer for curbside pickup. Hoping to get them installed in the next couple weeks.
 

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Dealer replaced my subframe under warranty 2000 miles ago due to this problem, but they did not replace the front lower control arms even though I said the are squeaking. Took car in today, alignment was off and both front LCA's had shifted even though the tech swore up and down he followed the torque specs. They are now going to replace the subframe again as the bolt holes stretched and also put on new LCA's. I'll be buying the nordlocks to hopefully prevent this from happening again. Glad I have an extended warranty.
 

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Wow, I don't want to know what subframe replacement would cost through the dealer.
 

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Dealer replaced my subframe under warranty 2000 miles ago due to this problem, but they did not replace the front lower control arms even though I said the are squeaking. Took car in today, alignment was off and both front LCA's had shifted even though the tech swore up and down he followed the torque specs. They are now going to replace the subframe again as the bolt holes stretched and also put on new LCA's. I'll be buying the nordlocks to hopefully prevent this from happening again. Glad I have an extended warranty.
Make sure the tech torques more that "spec" for the Nordlocks....otherwise they will slide.
 

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Make sure the tech torques more that "spec" for the Nordlocks....otherwise they will slide.
Thank you, yes I plan to tell them. With all these owners having this issue, I'm surprised GM hasn't issued a tsb.
 
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Thank you, yes I plan to tell them. With all these owners having this issue, I'm surprised GM hasn't issued a tsb.

Like they did for the fuel hat that breaks for 50% of owners, is a safety hazard?, cost $25 for GM to purchase from Denso, its going for $400-700 pending supply and demand...

OEMs are playing CYA and keep costs down.
 

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Like they did for the fuel hat that breaks for 50% of owners, is a safety hazard?, cost $25 for GM to purchase from Denso, its going for $400-700 pending supply and demand...

OEMs are playing CYA and keep costs down.
Don't you put that evil on me. I do not want to mess with the fuel pump :cry:.
 
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Like they did for the fuel hat that breaks for 50% of owners, is a safety hazard?, cost $25 for GM to purchase from Denso, its going for $400-700 pending supply and demand...

OEMs are playing CYA and keep costs down.
Haha, I've had that problem too and a bad diff.
 
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I have a different kind of clunk. Kind of when the suspension compresses. I checked the sway bar end links... they look fine. Where should I look next ?
 

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I have a different kind of clunk. Kind of when the suspension compresses. I checked the sway bar end links... they look fine. Where should I look next ?
Not sure if it was mentioned in the previous 6 pages, but clunking is usually the upper control arm bushings. Much easier fix than the lower arms.
 
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