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Ugh great. Well hopefully it will still drive fine with it torn for the next few weeks cause I don't have time to take the car out of service.


You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers off hand since you already replaced them would you?

Also with CS replacing bushing I believe I read that they are only replacing the lower bushing? If that is the case is it fine to run red on the bottom and black on the top or do they just give a discount on the bottom ones and you pay for the top? Lastly I didn't install my bushings but had a shop do them. I know they needed to press out the factory bushings but now do these replacements just slide in and out which is why there is the bushing plates? Just wondering if this is something I can do in my garage without any special tools?
You can definitely swap them yourself. They push in by hand.
 

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Ugh great. Well hopefully it will still drive fine with it torn for the next few weeks cause I don't have time to take the car out of service.


You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers off hand since you already replaced them would you?

Also with CS replacing bushing I believe I read that they are only replacing the lower bushing? If that is the case is it fine to run red on the bottom and black on the top or do they just give a discount on the bottom ones and you pay for the top? Lastly I didn't install my bushings but had a shop do them. I know they needed to press out the factory bushings but now do these replacements just slide in and out which is why there is the bushing plates? Just wondering if this is something I can do in my garage without any special tools?
No need for a press with these, line ‘em up and slide ‘em in. It’s just the rear lowers they’re replacing, you’re fine running black everywhere else.





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Can someone please provide the Front Caster and Camber adjustment procedure for the gen 2? I see some previews of it online, but the subscription price is pretty high.

Thank you!
 

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FWIW, I am going to replace my Nordlocks that have been tightened a couple of times now...their website says 'can normally be reused'...Ill be spending the $25 or so on new ones.

I will also be raising the torque spec for the tech by 10% due to the increased friction under the bolt head from the washers...its all about clamp load, and to duplicate the GM designed clamp load, the bolts need more torque with the washers. 10% is a conservative modifier based on Nordlock's website commentary.
 

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FWIW, I am going to replace my Nordlocks that have been tightened a couple of times now...their website says 'can normally be reused'...Ill be spending the $25 or so on new ones.

I will also be raising the torque spec for the tech by 10% due to the increased friction under the bolt head from the washers...its all about clamp load, and to duplicate the GM designed clamp load, the bolts need more torque with the washers. 10% is a conservative modifier based on Nordlock's website commentary.
Plus if you're using CS bushings, the grease could easily just make the bolts slip. Grease got everywhere when I did mine.

Also, when people get an alignment, ask the tech to mark your bolts. Will make it alot easier to tell if they're slipping off down the road.
 

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Plus if you're using CS bushings, the grease could easily just make the bolts slip. Grease got everywhere when I did mine.

Also, when people get an alignment, ask the tech to mark your bolts. Will make it alot easier to tell if they're slipping off down the road.
Good point on the marking (I'll be doing that again) This will be my third alignment on the CS red bushings, replacing the nordlocks that came with...I dont use the zerks because they are absolutly pointless IMHO. Hand grease everything before assembly and its stayed quiet...I have onsidered cleaning and regreasing, but damn thats a lot of work to do it right.

Moral of the story, I need an alignment rack at home (Im still looking for a good tech around GSO I can work with)

**Regarding clamp load and torque, good point on the grease, if the actual threads get greased, that changes the k factor of the thread when calculating clamp load. Any friction modifiers alter the torque required to achieve a given clamp load. Regarding the washer faces, I will assume the nordlocks generate more friction than without, and that the grease does not negate that under the bolt/nut faces. So Im upping the torque...
 

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I am going to be doing this for the first time (nord locks after eibachs and lower arm replacements).. Should I stick with 148ft lbs front lower/236ft lbs front rear bolt? or a 10% increase to almost 260ft lbs for the front rearward bolt... just concerning reading what happened to the guy above last year - need updates.

My lower control arms have worn bushings and just going to replace them, but also lower the car. Good idea on marking the bolt. I will need to watch my alignment like a hawk but I did ask if they had a large torque wrench, they said yes, up to 300ft lbs.
 

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I am going to be doing this for the first time (nord locks after eibachs and lower arm replacements).. Should I stick with 148ft lbs front lower/236ft lbs front rear bolt? or a 10% increase to almost 260ft lbs for the front rearward bolt... just concerning reading what happened to the guy above last year - need updates.

My lower control arms have worn bushings and just going to replace them, but also lower the car. Good idea on marking the bolt. I will need to watch my alignment like a hawk but I did ask if they had a large torque wrench, they said yes, up to 300ft lbs.
Mine has shifted, lowered with coilovers, both with factory bushings and with CS and nordlocks.

Replacing Nordlocks as stated...

https://www.nord-lock.com/insights/bolting-tips/2016/the-experts-should-i-change-my-tightening-torque-with-nord-lock/

Im open to input on the final torque value as much of this is only fully defined in a lab setting.

Looks like with a K factor of .2 we are hitting around 25000 lbf clamp load with 236 ft lb torque

Not sure if CS are 8.8 or 10.9...for 8.8 that is already close to the yield load, 10.9 has more room.

I firmly believe keeping the stock torque values will result in issues over time for some of us.
 

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Wonder if anybody tried throwing a tac weld spot on the side of the bolt head to the frame.
Subframe is aluminum and the bolts are steel.

A tack weld is not going to withstand shock loading better than a 25000 lbf clamp load.

I appreciate the think tank we have going here though!
 

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so my question...the gap and play of the actual hole and bolt is normal?
all I need to do is replace the bushing? I was worried I had to buy all new control arms.
 

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so my question...the gap and play of the actual hole and bolt is normal?
all I need to do is replace the bushing? I was worried I had to buy all new control arms.
Not exactly sure what gap and play you're talking about, but I'd say yes, just replace the bushings.
 

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Mine has shifted, lowered with coilovers, both with factory bushings and with CS and nordlocks.

Replacing Nordlocks as stated...

https://www.nord-lock.com/insights/bolting-tips/2016/the-experts-should-i-change-my-tightening-torque-with-nord-lock/

Im open to input on the final torque value as much of this is only fully defined in a lab setting.

Looks like with a K factor of .2 we are hitting around 25000 lbf clamp load with 236 ft lb torque

Not sure if CS are 8.8 or 10.9...for 8.8 that is already close to the yield load, 10.9 has more room.

I firmly believe keeping the stock torque values will result in issues over time for some of us.
Have you considered using the GevPWER dimpled plates in leu of the nordlock?

I wonder if the aluminum tabs is just too soft for the clamping load we are already generating, since virtually ALL of these photos - and my own car - show the aluminum deformation with smearing or ridges as the bolts are tightened - and then slip.

the problem I have with nordlocks is that they are still very narrow in OAD and the adjustment slot is wider than necessary for easier adjustment, which leads to the nordlocks only "gripping" a small fraction of the available surface area of the washer. Now focus all of that clamping force over an area a fraction of what's possible, and I wonder if a LARGER washer would be more helpful... akin to keeping something from moving with one finger versus your whole hand?



Imagine the red circle is the OEM bolt / washer, and the smaller gray line is the relatively smaller NordLock washer. The clamping force area is significantly smaller with Nordlocks, in spite of their anti-vibration resistance.
 

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Valid and thanks for the sketch. It’s pretty.

They make large and small OD nordlocks in many sizes. Not sure what came with CS.

I think my wear is actually from the specs and not shifting. Meh. I kinda want to get a alignment this week and kinda don’t.
 

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Have you considered using the GevPWER dimpled plates in leu of the nordlock?

I wonder if the aluminum tabs is just too soft for the clamping load we are already generating, since virtually ALL of these photos - and my own car - show the aluminum deformation with smearing or ridges as the bolts are tightened - and then slip.

the problem I have with nordlocks is that they are still very narrow in OAD and the adjustment slot is wider than necessary for easier adjustment, which leads to the nordlocks only "gripping" a small fraction of the available surface area of the washer. Now focus all of that clamping force over an area a fraction of what's possible, and I wonder if a LARGER washer would be more helpful... akin to keeping something from moving with one finger versus your whole hand?



Imagine the red circle is the OEM bolt / washer, and the smaller gray line is the relatively smaller NordLock washer. The clamping force area is significantly smaller with Nordlocks, in spite of their anti-vibration resistance.
I agree a larger washer would help tremendously. Current OD washer isn’t large enough


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Valid and thanks for the sketch. It’s pretty.

They make large and small OD nordlocks in many sizes. Not sure what came with CS.

I think my wear is actually from the specs and not shifting. Meh. I kinda want to get a alignment this week and kinda don’t.
As an experiment I used a wrench and 3ft bar...tightened bolts as tight as I could (have spare bolts on hand). No movement for over a year (Granted it was slightly out of alignment at the time). Going to get it realigned and try the same thing again, if I can find a tq wrench that reads high enough I would like to see how many ft pounds it takes.

Nordlocks need to be almost double current size for them to work effectively in this situation


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I think you guys are jumping to conclusions about how much area is required for the wedgleock feature to work as designed...

Like I mentioned, there are large and small OD versions for all...I bought all large this last go round...I just dont feel like effing with them honestly.
 

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GevPWR wants $200 for a set of "dimpled" over-size washers.

I'm not sure why they need to be golf-balled (versus having raised points for grip); but I'm thinking I will just hunt down some over-sized fender or "dock" washers to spread out clamping force and keep the nordlocks over those for retaining tension.

Something like this:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7376

5/8" ID, but 3" in diameter (versus 1.21 for the NordLocks). I could even add some grooves for "grip." $2 a piece.
 

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GevPWR wants $200 for a set of "dimpled" over-size washers.

I'm not sure why they need to be golf-balled (versus having raised points for grip); but I'm thinking I will just hunt down some over-sized fender or "dock" washers to spread out clamping force and keep the nordlocks over those for retaining tension.

Something like this:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7376

5/8" ID, but 3" in diameter (versus 1.21 for the NordLocks). I could even add some grooves for "grip." $2 a piece.
Maybe grab a slot width dim since you have easy access?
 

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I think you guys are jumping to conclusions about how much area is required for the wedgleock feature to work as designed...

Like I mentioned, there are large and small OD versions for all...I bought all large this last go round...I just dont feel like effing with them honestly.
Just trying to avoid this





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