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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I'm a newbie here. I have had a 2004 Tacoma for a long time and finally decided it was time to pull the trigger on one of these after drooling for over 5 years at the CTS-V.

It's 2012 with 37k miles and I'm beyond happy with it. It already has a Corsa exhaust and Airaid intake, and carbon fiber splitter/spoiler.
I'm wondering what issues I should look out for.
Does this year have any recalls?
Are there any smart upgrades/fixes I should do first?
Anything I should keep an eye on?
Thanks and looking forward to being part of the community!
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Manual? What did you pay for it? I have a 12 sedan too with similar miles. Wondering what the market is now


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Discussion Starter #4
Manual? What did you pay for it? I have a 12 sedan too with similar miles. Wondering what the market is now


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It's an auto, I've been driving stick since I was in high school, and we have tons of stop signs everywhere around here lol, the auto is a welcome change. If you're wondering what the prices are for manuals, I've seen prices all over from 35k to 69k depending on mileage and years.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Leaking shocks
Thanks, I'll take a look soon.. do you know if the supercharger bearings//isolator (or other problems) are an issue on the 12s? I will have to call the local dealer and see if they can pull up service records. Carfax showed some details but not all.
 

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I had the SC changed about 15k ago and 5k the rattle started. I installed an upper pulley with solid isolator and rattle stopped. Basically the rattle was just an insignificant sound and had no impact on performance
 

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I had the SC changed about 15k ago and 5k the rattle started. I installed an upper pulley with solid isolator and rattle stopped. Basically the rattle was just an insignificant sound and had no impact on performance
Thanks, I didn't notice any noise hardly at all at idle (perhaps a valve tick but nothing ticking near the front of the engine bay where the isolator would be). Sounds like the TSB didn't address that particular issue, so I'll keep my ears peeled for a noise to develop at idle.
 

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Did you not get a PPI at the time of sale? If no, curious why not?


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Did you not get a PPI at the time of sale? If no, curious why not?


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Went through Carvana so I have 7 days from picking the car up to look it over and/or have a shop inspect it. If something deal-breaking is found, I can return the car.
 

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Main known issues with 2009-2013 were the SC rattle at idle (spring loaded isolator) which is covered by GM for 120k miles or 10 years. The other was the rear end. Other than that these are pretty much bullet proof cars.
My (2011) SC was replaced a 12k and again at 96k under GM warranty.
My rear-end was replaced at 98k under my purchase warranty.
I have the TSB for the SC but not on my phone. Try this link...

 

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Main known issues with 2009-2013 were the SC rattle at idle (spring loaded isolator) which is covered by GM for 120k miles or 10 years. The other was the rear end. Other than that these are pretty much bullet proof cars.
My (2011) SC was replaced a 12k and again at 96k under GM warranty.
My rear-end was replaced at 98k under my purchase warranty.
I have the TSB for the SC but not on my phone. Try this link...

thanks a bunch. What are the problems with the rear-end? I thought that was only a V1 problem. Do you think I will have issues with the factory warranty since I am the second owner?

Here's a couple more pics:
148797


148796
 

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thanks a bunch. What are the problems with the rear-end? I thought that was only a V1 problem. Do you think I will have issues with the factory warranty since I am the second owner?

Here's a couple more pics:
View attachment 148797

View attachment 148796
I would say rear diff issues are kinda rare and pretty much either heat related (tracking hard especially in high heat) and/or low fluid level.
Some have found the factory rear diff fill to be way low so that could for sure kill diffs.

You will hear whining and eventually clunking and grinding.

For what it’s worth mine seems fine at like 43k miles but I’m planning to change fluid soonish.

I have used a laser temp gun on my rear diff after long couple hours on the highway and the diff was what I would consider way hotter than you would expect. I think the diffs just have poor airflow in combination with maybe low fluid.
Diff cooler is basically required for tracking


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Mine was whining at 98k miles. Dealer pulled the plug and there were metal contaminants in the oil. My purchase warranty covered the replacement cost.
 

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On this topic, I know there are tons of threads and I have read a few but is 1.5 quarts of this still the recommended fluid for the rear diff?


Im just going to order and do it this weekend while its on my mind and I might as well do an oil change too...its been a year because sadly I only put like 1k miles on the V this year with covid and driving my other cars.
 

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On this topic, I know there are tons of threads and I have read a few but is 1.5 quarts of this still the recommended fluid for the rear diff?


Im just going to order and do it this weekend while its on my mind and I might as well do an oil change too...its been a year because sadly I only put like 1k miles on the V this year with covid and driving my other cars.
Mine was closer to 1.8 quarts, plus the little bit of friction modifier. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 + Amsoil Slip Lock. I filled the diff up until it started leaking, drove it around in a few figure eights, then topped it off again until leaking. It won't take much for the top off.
 

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On this topic, I know there are tons of threads and I have read a few but is 1.5 quarts of this still the recommended fluid for the rear diff?


Im just going to order and do it this weekend while its on my mind and I might as well do an oil change too...its been a year because sadly I only put like 1k miles on the V this year with covid and driving my other cars.
Yes 1.5 is real close. Just pump it until it overflows out the fill hole. That is the correct gear lube as well.
 

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Went through Carvana so I have 7 days from picking the car up to look it over and/or have a shop inspect it. If something deal-breaking is found, I can return the car.
A guy at my office went through the same company with a Chevy SS. He took the car to the alignment rack and they found the car had front end damage and Carvana claimed it passed their check list. It was also a little strange that the damage was not listed on the Carfax but I guess the original owner never reported it.

Carvana took the car back but make sure you check everything out...


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My ‘12 coupe with Airaid and Corsas has been pretty much flawless since new. It just tripped 30K miles and has very slight buildup on both rear shocks. I ordered mine without a sunroof, but if I had one I would make sure the drain tubes are clear - it can be a mess if they stop up and the headliner gets soaked. Good luck!
 

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My ‘12 coupe with Airaid and Corsas has been pretty much flawless since new. It just tripped 30K miles and has very slight buildup on both rear shocks. I ordered mine without a sunroof, but if I had one I would make sure the drain tubes are clear - it can be a mess if they stop up and the headliner gets soaked. Good luck!
Slicktop checking in :)

I have other cars with sunroofs and they are nothing but trouble
 
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My ‘12 coupe with Airaid and Corsas has been pretty much flawless since new. It just tripped 30K miles and has very slight buildup on both rear shocks. I ordered mine without a sunroof, but if I had one I would make sure the drain tubes are clear - it can be a mess if they stop up and the headliner gets soaked. Good luck!
Slicktop checking in :)

I have other cars with sunroofs and they are nothing but trouble
Yes 1.5 is real close. Just pump it until it overflows out the fill hole. That is the correct gear lube as well.
Yeah I just bought 2. I have always had best luck with OEM fluid in diffs and transmissions so Im not trying to mess with other fluids and friction modifiers.

This OEM ACdelco stuff should have all the correct additives for limited slip already right?
Our rear diffs are clutch based lock up right? not torsen?
 
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