Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello CTS owners,

My appologies if there was a thread similar but i could not find any sticky or recent posts about new purchase questions.

I own currently and Audi RS5 and I am planning to upgrade to a sedan as life changed and I have a 2 years old that keeps kicking my back seat :)

I am looking at 18 CTS-V, E63 and M5 in this order. I like the value to power i will get for the CTS-V plus I miss RWD :(

For CTS-V with MSRP around 100K what do you guys usually try to shoot for during negotiations? 5% MSRP or more? also is it common for GM dealers to negotiate throwing in extended warranty and Service in the deal (that what i was able to do with my RS the dealer said cannot do anything about MSRP-rebate but here is 5K for extended service and warranty till 7 years/70000miles)

Thank you again for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
My strategy for buying new, is to search all the dealers in a 500 mile radius to determine inventory. Identify which dealers have the vehicle with the options I'm interested in, and contact their internet sales manager to determine what they can offer. After receiving all offers I contact the dealers who did not offer the lowest price, thank them, indicate that I will be going with X dealer that offered X price, and see if they are interested in reducing further. Go with the lowest cost dealer, pretty simple. At this point in the CTS-V's life cycle, you should be able to get at or below invoice pricing depending on what offers are currently out there.

If you're looking to trade in your current vehicle, forget all of this and just set your wallet on fire. Too hard to negotiate 2 separate deals with the same dealer without actually going there. And once you're there, you're theirs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,059 Posts
My strategy for buying new, is to search all the dealers in a 500 mile radius to determine inventory. Identify which dealers have the vehicle with the options I'm interested in, and contact their internet sales manager to determine what they can offer. After receiving all offers I contact the dealers who did not offer the lowest price, thank them, indicate that I will be going with X dealer that offered X price, and see if they are interested in reducing further. Go with the lowest cost dealer, pretty simple. At this point in the CTS-V's life cycle, you should be able to get at or below invoice pricing depending on what offers are currently out there.

If you're looking to trade in your current vehicle, forget all of this and just set your wallet on fire. Too hard to negotiate 2 separate deals with the same dealer without actually going there. And once you're there, you're theirs.
All of this is well and good, and should be part of due diligence, but still won't change the fact that you'll lose $10k+ driving off the lot. You can't out research economics.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
20,536 Posts
I don’t think he’s arguing that.
Some people want new. Some people want it exactly how they want it.

Can’t blame him for that.

Money doesn’t need to be the number one priority for everyone and everything. If it was, there’s no way my wife would have said yes to me 19 years ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,059 Posts
A quick look shows 2017's listed for low 70's that should transact in the upper $60's. I couldn't bring myself to pay $20k+ more for a new one. Buy commodities at lowest price point, regardless of spending power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,038 Posts
A quick look shows 2017's listed for low 70's that should transact in the upper $60's. I couldn't bring myself to pay $20k+ more for a new one. Buy commodities at lowest price point, regardless of spending power.
That is if you consider a car a straight commodity...
TBH I completely agree with you and will never and have never bought new. BUT I don't think a CTS-V is a commodity. There is something to a new car and knowing it has been maintained appropriately and has the exact options you want.
The people who owned those 2017's going for low 70s to upper 60s now almost certainly didn't give 2 shits about how they treated the car/paint/oil changes/etc etc and most likely don't have all the desirable options OP wants.

A vacuum cleaner or toaster oven, sure its a commodity. Probably even a Camry/Accord/whatever could be a commodity but a high performance car could be more to some people.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
20,536 Posts
Also, if you have enough income/trust fund/whatever, perhaps saving a few dollars is nice but not a worry.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
There's a certified 2018 with 126 miles available for $90K. I wouldn't pay more for new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I agree, I still consider my self-lucky I totaled my old CPO M3 9 years ago because there is no way someone will buy it from me with over $30K of reparis, it had only 8k miles on it when i bought it but stuff started to fall apart within the first year. (BMW paid for everything but still)

I know one incident does not count as a fact but really with those high-end cars how can you know if the previous driver redlined it every time and abused the ** out of it. (Actually, it is funny here in South Florida a Mercedes dealer once told me that the previous owner of this e63 was a 60 years old lady to make feel comfortable the car was not abused because they know how these cars are driven)

I was asking to see if it is normal to see if I can get around 8% of MSRP or +$$$ over invoice which is considered normal practice with other German car dealers (BMW forums actually post dealer invode sheet and you can usually walk in to the dealer and ask of $1000 above invoice, I was able to get $1250 above invoice on a new M3 then I decided to save 14k and go with that PoS CPO).
you should be able to get at or below invoice pricing depending on what offers are currently out there.
Where do you get the invoice sheet? KBB or Edmunds? and yes most likely I will find one car on the lot close to what i want and getting in it for invoice or +1000 will be great.

If you're looking to trade in your current vehicle, forget all of this and just set your wallet on fire. Too hard to negotiate 2 separate deals with the same dealer without actually going there. And once you're there, you're theirs.
I have a plan for this that worked well for me in the past. I will be hitting all BMW, Audi and MB dealers , I know for the new E63 and M5 they will not disount the car alot but I will make them compensate with the trade in offer so I will try to get that number as high as i could then i will use this as my base line with Cadillac and present it to them as my bottom line . I think if have a fair trade-in not some crazy number that is too high with a good offer (invoice + some $$$) I do not see why the dealer will no accept (CTS-V is not selling well and here in SF ther are over 15 dealers within 300 miles that i can easily drive to) also as last resort i will play the added warranty and service card to extend it to 7years-70Kmiles to bundle it it to cover whatever dollar amount in difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Edit: looks like the forum ate my first post submission...

I'm looking to order a MY '19 -V. I like the new red and blue colors and want the lighter interior, luxury package, and Recaros, so the chance of one randomly showing up on a dealer's lot seems slim to me.

With that said MSRP is a fool's game. MY 19 ordering appears to have opened yesterday 5/10; I want to find a dealer with allocation that doesn't play games and will honor both Costco member pricing as well as all incentives available at the time of delivery.

If you're an internet or fleet manager and reading this and the above applies to you, PM me. :) Otherwise - anyone have any suggestions as to which dealer to deal with? I have bought dozens of cars across state lines and don't care where the car originates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
what are changes in the MY19?

What I a getting now for MY18 is around 8K-10K off MSRP and not sure if it is worth waiting for MY19 unless it has some changes that is worth it like faster CUE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Cadillac dealers are in deep shit right now; a stat came out recently that about half of all US Cadillac dealers sold 50 or fewer new cars in an entire calendar year, so as YoY sales have plummeted in the wake of de Nysschen's bungled management (thankfully now departed) and the market is all about crossovers and utes anyway so niche stuff like this doesn't move, and therefore why we're all seeing really steep discounts off MSRP on the 17s and 18s still on lots. No reason not to negotiate on a '19 like it's a '17 or '18 eating up floorplan already.

Dealers' allocation isn't segmented by color so far as I know, so ultimately allocation = allocation at this point in the game and agreeing to MSRP when even just a few minutes' time lets you get Costco member pricing through a dealer that will play ball probably saves you $5k+ or more - and then considering the cash on the hood rebates or even waiting for supplier pricing means a base car should be, just as Ash83 wrote, $8-10k off.

apt333, did you put down a deposit on a '19 build?

PS: Ash83, in my experience through my 2nd gen wagon, Cadillac dealers and service departments have about the same degree of competency and customer service as Hyundai, and that's not a flattering comparison. Cadillac as a brand barely knows what CPO is. While my experience with them isn't admittedly that current, I personally wouldn't expect value-adds to be packaged in on new car deals with any regularity because their finance guys and sales managers probably don't get much factory support on the back end to run those through. Just not in the dealer/brand DNA.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top