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New member building my 2nd V2

2884 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  SimplyDreamin
Good morning all.... New member to this forum, been around all the facebook pages and such for years, finally decided to join here. This is my 2nd gen 2 v, first one I left pretty much stock, this one is different LOL. mods so far that I can think of off the top of my head are as follows.

ZL1 lid and brick, 2.45/9.20 w ati damper, dsx idler relocation bracket w 110 idler, airaid cai, did a custom grind cam I think its a 224/245 115+5 ( if I remember correctly lol. I will have to look to confirm ), LS3 rocker's, johnson lifters, tsp springs and pushrods, kooks 2 inch to qtp cutouts and corsa backhalf, Forced inductions interchiller, DMS engine bay coolant res. FIC1000 injectors, DSX aux pump. Currently on weld leguna rear wheels and 305/45/17 MT et street R's, I have the front runners but no one has the 26" tire in stock. I'm sure I am missing a ton but its 0700 and I'm killing time at work LOL.

Also, have a few parts sitting in my house that will be installed soon. Frankenstein m311 heads, Johnson 2116LSR lifters, arp head studs, ID1300xds injectors, NW 103tb etc.

No specific goals for the car, just building it how I want to. I will throw some pics up later.

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Look like a nice build!
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Also just ordered a DDP 5” intake, new plugs and spark plug wires. Almost forgot, going to port the blower and snout also. Should get pretty rowdy.
SBE so far?
So far, but I feel that will change soon lol. Also going to order a converter. I wanted circle D but have been seeing a ton of issues with them lately.
An observation that I have made (and no I've not personally proven it) from all the research I've done: Sort of an unwritten rule-of-thumb: somewhere around 850rwhp is a 'line' that you cross. It appears that is the sort of sweet spot number where the LSA block can work well and LIVE for a long time. If you're shooting well over that level, it's time to consider putting your "forged bottom end" money into a better block than the LSA.
As the numbers get big, the LSA block is subject to flex (bearing/crank issues), out-of-round cylinders (blow-by, detonation,power loss), head lift (sealing, head gaskets, damage). It just isn't strong enough for those levels.

Just opinion.
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I’ll most likely tear into the bottom end but will not get rid of the lsa block. If I do end up doing this it will be a K1 crank and rods. Probably wiseco pistons.
Did exactly what I stated above lol. Parts ordered, blower going to kong for an x port. Got k1 rods and wiseco pistons.
An observation that I have made (and no I've not personally proven it) from all the research I've done: Sort of an unwritten rule-of-thumb: somewhere around 850rwhp is a 'line' that you cross. It appears that is the sort of sweet spot number where the LSA block can work well and LIVE for a long time. If you're shooting well over that level, it's time to consider putting your "forged bottom end" money into a better block than the LSA.
As the numbers get big, the LSA block is subject to flex (bearing/crank issues), out-of-round cylinders (blow-by, detonation,power loss), head lift (sealing, head gaskets, damage). It just isn't strong enough for those levels.

Just opinion.
And your pretty close..:)

The blocks tend to not hold a round / concentric cylinder for long, after about 725 - 750 HP. And that 750 HP number, is right about what 100% cylinder fill generates with the 376 cid LSA.
***Your engine produced right about 120% cylinder fill..;)
***Volumetric Efficiency (VE%) is linked to cylinder fill, but they are not the same. VE%, when scaled against cylinder fill, will always / must always scale at a much higher percentage. . . .

The crankshafts, while warranted for 900 fwHP in the B-15
(same crank as the lsa) tend to whip / deflect, at around
800 - 850 fwHP. Tune, combustion chamber shape, and
of course fuel also plays a role here.

Cheers
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Also did a kong x port/ rebuild on the 1900 blower.
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This is looking good!

I noticed the rotor coating is worn away a little. Mine looks just like that. Did Kong mention any concerns about this during the rebuild/port?

What are the dyno numbers from the current build?
This is looking good!

I noticed the rotor coating is worn away a little. Mine looks just like that. Did Kong mention any concerns about this during the rebuild/port?

What are the dyno numbers from the current build?
Kong didn’t mention anything to me, I had a rebuild and x port, so I’m assuming it’s good to go. The previous build did 730 on 93 and I don’t remember off the top of my head what it did on e85, I’ll have to find the sheet. This build should most likely hit the dyno this week.

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New engine has 68 miles on it. Oil change between 150-200 then I’ll hit the dyno
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Nice HP!
Kinda surprised at the torque, though.
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