besides your clock none of that was necessary, these cars dont care if you take the battery out. all the memory functions are retained when the battery is disconnected
New Battery
Had a new battery put in my gen 2. In order to avoid any problems the shop hooked my old battery up to another battery while they put in my new batter and then just transferred the connection to the new one so the car never lost power or knew what was going on. Bingo on the road, no issues. They did have to move the fuse box out of the way.
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well, I didn’t ask him to do it, and what you have said, it’s good to know, but if you were to follow the forums you have to do everything including getting a priest or a witch to come and pray over your car so that it returns to normalbesides your clock none of that was necessary, these cars dont care if you take the battery out. all the memory functions are retained when the battery is disconnected
i mean I may have only been on this forum for 10 years and had 2 V's but I have changed the batteries out 4 times already and had the battery drain 100%, guess I got lucky all those times lol
Lots of shops keep a 12 volt supply when replacing a battery to avoid any resets like throttle position and windows. After replacing my battery without a 12 volt supply I followed these directions to be safe and had no issues. I did notice that my engine idled smoother and just reset my clock and window. Everything else was fine.
First, reset the throttle position.
After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or
removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse
block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate
the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the
engine will not run properly.
1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the
engine.
2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least
three minutes so that the electronic throttle
control will cycle and re-learn its home position.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.
You will also want your power window auto up to work. Roll them up, hold the up for 5 seconds to reset.
First, reset the throttle position.
After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or
removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse
block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate
the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the
engine will not run properly.
1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the
engine.
2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least
three minutes so that the electronic throttle
control will cycle and re-learn its home position.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.
You will also want your power window auto up to work. Roll them up, hold the up for 5 seconds to reset.
The one thing replacing the battery does that might actually matter is - it resets all the OBD diagnostics. So you have to go through the OBD relearn cycle before the ECM will report "ready" status for all the tests it has to run. It can take as much as an hour or so of varied driving (high and low speed) to get through the cycle. If you don't drive a lot, and the battery goes dead, and you jump the car because you realize you need to take it to get inspected, it'll fail because most of the ECM emissions tests will report a "not run" status.
weird because my battery was actually dead I charged it and went across the street to get my inspectionThe one thing replacing the battery does that might actually matter is - it resets all the OBD diagnostics. So you have to go through the OBD relearn cycle before the ECM will report "ready" status for all the tests it has to run. It can take as much as an hour or so of varied driving (high and low speed) to get through the cycle. If you don't drive a lot, and the battery goes dead, and you jump the car because you realize you need to take it to get inspected, it'll fail because most of the ECM emissions tests will report a "not run" status.
Newer FCA vehicles take some time to 'load' many of the Uconnect functions after battery removal (backup cam, SRT pages, brand specific themes, etc). Can take several ignition cycles to get everything back. Haven't heard of that on GM vehicles, but who knows.
i mean I may have only been on this forum for 10 years and had 2 V's but I have changed the batteries out 4 times already and had the battery drain 100%, guess I got lucky all those times lol
weird because my battery was actually dead I charged it and went across the street to get my inspection
Dang, a little salty?
maybe you missed the context here:Dang, a little salty?
but if you were to follow the forums you have to do everything including getting a priest or a witch to come and pray over your car so that it returns to normal
i mean I may have only been on this forum for 10 years and had 2 V's but I have changed the batteries out 4 times already and had the battery drain 100%, guess I got lucky all those times lol
They only battery weirdness I’ve had was the windows (coupe) not knowing where UP was. Fixed itself in a couple of cycles.
That’s actually surprising to hear.weird because my battery was actually dead I charged it and went across the street to get my inspection
I unplug the positive on my battery every winter and every spring i connect it and go on my merry way. As for a shop that doesn't want to risk any weird things happening on any car, what they did is probably good practice. But now you know its overkill
how would someone attach another battery? attach a smaller wire to the cables? Just no room in there or even slack in the cables to move them over to another battery
There are many ways, but yes, you hook up another 12V power supply in parallel with the battery and then disconnect the battery.
One thing I've always done when removing and/or replacing the battery in one of the newer (last 20+ years or so) vehicles is to use a computer memory saver which plugs into the OBDII port and a 12v portable power pack thus preventing any power loss at all. This insures that all the vehicle's fault codes (if any), drive-ability codes, key-less entry codes and all radio settings are preserved with no problems at all. Very inexpensive to buy and saves a world of hurt if something unexpected happens...!
Can you elaborate? My coupes Driver side window is about a millimeter or two too low when all the way up and doing the re-learn procedure doesn't seem to help.They only battery weirdness I’ve had was the windows (coupe) not knowing where UP was. Fixed itself in a couple of cycles.
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