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someone is selling a 2010 ctsv lsa block for 2k they said a local machine shop resleeved one cylinder. i don’t know shi about engines but does anyone know if this is a good deal i’ll provide pics

i am looking to build an engine from the block uo been wanting and 6.2 and came across this any response helps
 

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Yeah, I would be wary of this. One sleeve and its not bored to final dimensions. You’d have to bore it and deck it and if that sleeve was not installed correctly, you would be screwed. New would assure you of factory dimensions and ready for machining if you wanted to alter the displacement but I would stay stock displacement to keep full wall thicknes.
 

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How anyone could look at this and not be horrified, I don't know...

View attachment 161635
And the thin cast iron sleeves, don't flex at the
same rate as does the aluminum block.

And since the aluminum block expands at a quicker rate,
the thin sleeve then has no support, and it then cracks.
 

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I hate asking dumb questions but… I wouldn’t need a machine shop if I bought this kind of package?
Feel free to do so, as many others before you, have already done so..lol

Assuming you have a tool box, and some automotive experience. . .

That is a short block, all of the machining has been done.

Your cylinder heads will bolt onto this short block.
Simply take your heads to a machine shop, and have a valve job done.

I would suggest you have them put a camshaft in this before you take delivery of it. Or possibly send them your heads, have them do the valve job, install the camshaft and lifters, and torque the heads down for you.

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And the thin cast iron sleeves, don't flex at the
same rate as does the aluminum block.

And since the aluminum block expands at a quicker rate,
the thin sleeve then has no support, and it then cracks.
Exactly. The thin remaining aluminum section between the oversize and original sleeves will quickly crack and disintegrate at which point neither sleeve will be properly supported and they'll start to rock and shift causing further damage until ultimately the motor blows itself apart (provided the crumbly remains that had already fallen in to the oil pan didn't cause a quicker demise).

It's one of the most horrible "professional" jobs I think I've ever seen... An example of "dichotomy". Someone who clearly knew what they were doing but simultaneously had no idea what they were doing. The mind friggin' boggles. :)
 

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The issue I explained above, does not require the block to be sleeved.

It happens with stock blocks all the time. Especially so with the two rear cylinders, as they tend to run hotter then the others do.

----------------------------------------------

If one has been adding HP to one of these engines, and one loses the engine, one really should consider at least moving up to a GM lsX B-15 iron block. Matter of fact; that is why GM offers them..lol
 

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The issue I explained above, does not require the block to be sleeved.

It happens with stock blocks all the time. Especially so with the two rear cylinders, as they tend to run hotter then the others do.

----------------------------------------------

If one has been adding HP to one of these engines, and one loses the engine, one really should consider at least moving up to a GM lsX B-15 iron block. Matter of fact; that is why GM offers them..lol
Not to mention taking a bored out LSA with eagle crank and rods (not exactly high end or high on the quality side) as was posted by Mr. Surely.

Probably fine for a driver but compromises are made that entail increased risk over time. The B15 looks better and better for OP.

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