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Need help. Measuring pushrods Johnson lifters

641 Views 20 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Lt1z
Do the lifters need to be pumped up when I'm measuring the zero lash push rod length?
Johnson 2126
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No.. Each lifter contains a spring. With no pushrod installed, the spring keeps the pushrod seat raised. Measuring for zero lash means removing lash until the seat is contacted but the spring is NOT compressed at all. Provide that measurement to your pushrod maker along with the specific model of lifters and they will provide pushrods that are a small amount longer than your measured number to provide the specific preload that your lifters require.
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No, just make certain they're seated all the way on the cam and that lobe is on cam base circle. Measure right at zero lash, then add the preload and order that size pushrod. Verify a few times to be sure.
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So it won't matter if I collapsed them by accident measuring?
So far I'm getting around 7.59
So it won't matter if I collapsed them by accident measuring?
So far I'm getting around 7.59
I want to say that Matt LT1Z ordered .120 wall pushrods for my set up. He said I won't worry about bent PR now.. lol
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So it won't matter if I collapsed them by accident measuring?
So far I'm getting around 7.59
You should not be collapsing them to find zero lash
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I think I was doing it wrong. I thought zero lash was torqued to 22lb and the rocker bolt only turning .75-1.25 turns...
NO.

You should NOT be collapsing them or compressing their spring at all.
YES. I makes a huge difference if you do it wrong.
So it won't matter if I collapsed them by accident measuring?
Where did you get that idea?
Alright so I'm not going to try and pump them back up because I already might have collapsed them... I'm just going to re measure again.
You need to use an adjustable pushrod tool.
IMHO the 'turn counting' method is too imprecise; I would do it using the tool. Collapse the tool, intall the rocker then carefully extend the tool to remove lash. Lock it and measuer it. recheck multiple times.

There are many YouTubes on the process.
Do you have one of these?
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You need to use an adjustable pushrod tool.
IMHO the 'turn counting' method is too imprecise; I would do it using the tool. Collapse the tool, intall the rocker then carefully extend the tool to remove lash. Lock it and measuer it. recheck multiple times.

There are many YouTubes on the process.
Do you have one of these?
View attachment 167578
I do and I have that's how I got the
measurements.

I got 7.545 +.035 = 7.58. (torqued rocker 22lbs then expanded the PR until it was maxed out.)

Then I used 7.58 size to check the turn count on every lifter.

I found that using 7.59 that every rocker bolt turn count was within .75-1.15 turns.

I called Johnson I explained all this. He said I need to prime my oil system and pump the lifters back up. Then measure every lifters 0 lash. And only add the .035. do not check preload till after I get the real pushrods.
Do the lifters need to be pumped up when I'm measuring the zero lash push rod length?
Johnson 2126
Just a comment. . .
You want to set the preload of the lifters, per Johnson's spec. . .

After you know what the spec is you can then set the preload.
Here is a video which deals with that.

If you don't like this one, there are many more..lol

-----------------------------------------------

Here is another video, which uses a different technique. . .

Good Luck.. :)
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Alright so I'm not going to try and pump them back up because I already might have collapsed them... I'm just going to re measure again.
How are you going to set the preload accurately, with a collapsed lifter?

In order to set preload accurately, the lifter needs to be on the heel of the lobe, with the lifter pumped up. . . .
with the lifter pumped up. . . .
Thank you! that's what I was asking
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Alright so I'm going to prime the oil system to make sure the lifters are pumped up.

Should I rotate the crank while priming it, to make sure each lifter gets some oil in it
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Alright so I'm going to prime the oil system to make sure the lifters are pumped up.

Should I rotate the crank while priming it, to make sure each lifter gets some oil in it
You're a customer of Matt's, @Lt1z, so I am going to
remove myself from this sub-forum now, as it his cam and you should follow his methods and not void the warranty.

He always helps people, and I am sure he will help you through the remaining steps.

I just wanted to be sure you did not do something wrong, such
as make the wrong measurement and install too long a pushrod,
because the lifter was totally collapsed.

-while this is not always true-
Depending on what the delta / difference in lift is between the intake and exhaust valve lifts, (actually the delta between the intake and exhaust base circles) you might not need more than maybe 2-different length pushrods.

If this holds true, you should not have to turn the engine over
many times, which tends to bleed down the lifters.

Cheers
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What do you think I managed to get a picture of the top of the lifter does it look pumped up still?
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ive got the problem of my lifters have been sitting for so long that some plungers are stuck down after rotating with spring pressure on them, ive already done preload and got pushrods as some were correctly sitting up, just trying to get some heat into them or i might heat up some engine oil and poor it in to try and get rid of that factory sticky coating on them, ive already got pressurized oil thru them and some pumped up but i have a stubborn one, im not going to start it up with 4mm lash :cautious: so i may have to pull the heads and go thru and clean them all up and fill with fresh oil just to be safe,

anybody using solids for a weekender all out style build or are the quality high rpm hydraulic pretty good now days ? ive been thinking bout going solid (if i have to take heads off) but just not sure, my rockers have adjusters so can go either way
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I re measured atleast 4 times or more each to make sure I was coming up with the same numbers everytime.
These are zero lash

These are zero lash

Intake - exhaust pass.
8. 7.544. 7.540.
6. 7.544. 7.540.
4. 7.547. 7.535.
2. 7.549. 7.531.
Intake - exhaust driver
7. 7.528. 7.520
5. 7.528. 7.520
3. 7.528. 7.520
1. 7.550. 7.520

So would I be able to run 7.539 - 7.530 + .035
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You're a customer of Matt's, @Lt1z, so I am going to
remove myself from this sub-forum now, as it his cam and you should follow his methods and not void the warranty.

He always helps people, and I am sure he will help you through the remaining steps.

I just wanted to be sure you did not do something wrong, such
as make the wrong measurement and install too long a pushrod,
because the lifter was totally collapsed.

-while this is not always true-
Depending on what the delta / difference in lift is between the intake and exhaust valve lifts, (actually the delta between the intake and exhaust base circles) you might not need more than maybe 2-different length pushrods.

If this holds true, you should not have to turn the engine over
many times, which tends to bleed down the lifters.

Cheers
What do you think of these number I got? I'm trying to get these ordered before I have to have back surgery in a few weeks I won't be able to work on my car again for a long time. and can't get a hold of lt1z
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