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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

My 1st post, I have a 14 M6 coupe stock and have been stockpiling everything for a round of mods and wanted to get your thoughts.

I daily the car and love it. I don't track it and my goal is for more fun during my daily driving, no tracking, and ultimate safe and reliable power.

It's lowered and other than that stock and have 35k miles, here's my list of parts in my closet waiting install.

-Airaid CAI, new plugs, DSX flex fuel kit E85, 1050x ID injectors, solid isolator, 2.55 griptech upper

I don't know what that combo will net me on gains, but really want it tuned to be safe to daily and not blow up.

I live in AZ and don't drive the car terribly hard, but like to get on it while merging on the freeway for little 15 second run ups...

Thanks for your input, love the forum and read it all the time. --Brandon.
 

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Really should add a pump, HX, and a catch can to that list at a minimum.
 

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Extra cooling is critical with increased boost, especially in a state that gets hot temps like AZ.
 

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Since you live in AZ, and probably use your AC a lot, maybe look into an interchiller. A reinforced brick will benefit you as well. +1 on a catch can. Before you mod the car, if you hear a rattle sound in the blower, take it to the dealership and see if they’ll replace it. Also invest some stock in tires.
 

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Would a ZL1 lid accomplish enough cooling?
If you want to spent the money for a lid its nice but not needed for what you are looking to have/do to your car. A stock lid will work just fine, and you can get a larger fitting so you can install bigger dia hose for you HX cooling system. +1 on getting the brick reinforced. The pump he is referring to is a HX pump (look at Varimax for starters there are a couple others out there). You will want to move the water/coolant more efficiently than the stock pump will. +2 on a catch can, there is a lot of blow by with these cars (especially when you add more boost) and keeping the oil out of you intake will provide gains. One last part that aids in cooling is replacing the metal HX lines on the passanger fender well with 3/4 hose. Your car will pick up good power with your planned mods, make sure you have a tuner that has worked with boosted cars as we have seen lots of issues guys have had with someone trying to tune a V that has only done natually aspirated stuff. Best of luck!
 

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+1 on removing the metal hard lines and replace with 3/4 or bigger hose. It's cheap and often forgot about. Just like I forget to mention it lol.
 

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If you're in AZ I would be using Cordes Performance to do the work and tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replies and info, it really helps. Hopefully my list of mods shows that i've paid attention to the forum.

I'll be using Cordes Performance for my tune via NicD, they've tuned some of my brother's cars and I'll have my TBSS in there in the next couple weeks for them to tune.

As far as cooling, is the heat exchanger and new pump a must do together for my mods? Or would just a DMS heat exchanger or Varimax pump be sufficient? Not trying to skimp on the the build, but also wondering what the community thinks. I'll be doing the line upgrades recommended above and will research what's needed to do that later today, but sounds like really good bang for few dollars.

Regarding tires... I have the stock staggered coupe wheels and nearly new stock size fronts. I need new rears soon, especially w/ the added power coming soon. Can/should I go wider than stock tires w/out causing any issues?

I'll probably get the additional cooling parts in the next 2 weeks and hoping to have it all buttoned up and tuned in the next 30 days. Can't wait to see how it turns out. E85 stations are pretty plentiful so i'm guessing i'll feel a decent amount of new power from this set of mods.

Thanks.
 

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I'm with Need4V,+1 for the InterChiller given the hot temperatures that you experience in AZ. If I had know about it I would started there first instead of taking the traditional cooling route most folks take.

If the InterChiller sounds too extreme for your needs then stick to the solid advice the other posters gave you. Also for reliability and fun keep the rwhp in the 600's. Once you get into the 700's reliability becomes concern and traction is non existent unless you drive around with a pair of slicks.
 

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Hi Brandon,

An Aero Gauge is of Great help displaying what's going on under the hood! Of course that means no more clock but... Does anybody really know what time it is?
Another consideration is Window Tint. Factory tint does very little (if anything) for Phoenix cars and 7 months of brutal SUN. Huge difference in protecting the interior from UV's with a dark tint, and not having to get into a HOT car where you can't touch the steering wheel until you run the AC for 2 minutes.
Hoping the Best for you!
 

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Cooling is required to get the full benefits of modding. Definitely do HX before pump, but pumps are cheap so might as well do both. InterChiller is an option, but costly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've been thinking of getting some new window tint, I don't think mine is factory, but seems to not do much currently. Being in AZ, not touching the steering wheel is a relatable thing for sure.

I've been thinking of an Aero Gauge as well.

Thanks for the info, i'm in for the cooling upgrades.

Looks like it's a solid move w/ the mods.

I already ordered a MM catch can and am going to order the Varimax pump.

As far as a heat exchanger, I can't decide on the track attack or the CR... Both seem to be solid choices, but not sure which is better for my situation.
 

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Thanks for the info, i'm in for the cooling upgrades.

Looks like it's a solid move w/ the mods.

I already ordered a MM catch can and am going to order the Varimax pump.

As far as a heat exchanger, I can't decide on the track attack or the CR... Both seem to be solid choices, but not sure which is better for my situation.
Track Attack is proven and many guys run it including myself. I read for days on different HX before I bought mine, and I'm happy. Can't speak for the CR but a nice bonus for the TA is that the interchiller will tie in to it like the stock unit. This was a deciding factor as an interchiller is likely.
 
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