Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so here's the story. I finally get to purchase a V2. I fly across the United States, inspect and purchase a beauty black 2009 sedan with about 60k miles. I journey back to my to my home state, 22hrs and approx 1300 miles of pure enjoyment. I get home and conduct the ritual of changing oil and detailing after the long road trip.

About a week after I'm home, I'm getting onto the interstate (with some foot involvement) when bam! tCS warning followed soon by the CEL. I pulled off the highway and noticed a rough idle. I knew I was down a cylinder. I babied it back home the few miles and began tearing it apart. Number 8 plug arm is smashed to the electrode! Mechanical damage. I loaned a bore scope and discovered a marred up #8 piston and a foreign object in there as well. I can't start my tear down until next week but I know I will need pistons and maybe a new head. As I find out the true cause and the extent of the damage it may change my plans.

I don't know what all has been done to the car yet. I'm thinking pulleys because I was reading up tom15psi boost (stock gauge) when it happened. Valve Springs look stock no cam lope. Looks like it had a ZL1 lid before it was de modded and traded in.

So from here? While I am doing this i want to be smart and have a reliable, street able higher hp car. This is my daily driver. It is an A6, I don't want to get to the point I start having trans issues. I am limited to $4k with machine work. I plan on removing and installing the engine but having the shop balance and assemble the long block.


Here's what I'm thinking so far
Wiseco forged Pistons
Rods (stock or Callie's?)
Cam ls9 or BTR stage 1
Heads stock lsa (porting?)
Melling oil pump

Future mods (summer 2017) include E85, supercharger porting, tb porting, cai, full exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
I would say go BTR stage 2 if you're going to put a cam in it. You can't argue with the results.

Wiseco K398X7 seems to be what you're looking for if not stroking it.
Callies Compstar rods 6.125 Long. Brian Tooley would have the best price.
I don't think with porting, you'll come in under your $4,000.00 cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would say go BTR stage 2 if you're going to put a cam in it. You can't argue with the results.

Wiseco K398X7 seems to be what you're looking for if not stroking it.
Callies Compstar rods 6.125 Long. Brian Tooley would have the best price.
I don't think with porting, you'll come in under your $4,000.00 cap.
Thanks for the recommendations. If I stay with my heads and without porting I still need to upgrade to dual valve springs .660 from BT with titanium retainers to go with the cam correct? What is your recommendation on vavles to go with this setup?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
LT1Z cam (GPtuning) > BTR Just throwing that out there.


Now fight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Thanks for the recommendations. If I stay with my heads and without porting I still need to upgrade to dual valve springs .660 from BT with titanium retainers to go with the cam correct? What is your recommendation on vavles to go with this setup?
I personally run BTR platinums on both my vehicles with titanium retainers. Did you drop a valve?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,883 Posts
This is the dark side of "back to stock" conversions where people strip off as much as they can before trading it in - often ignoring a decent tune because they know it will be someone else's problem. Obviously I don't really know if your failure was just bad luck or because of the prior owner, but if I had to guess based on how durable these cars seem to be (with the right components)... however, you have a great attitude and it can be hard to choose parts until you know what all you're dealing with.

If the heads are toast, grab the WCCH stage 2 heads from Lt1z in the f/s section along with a comparable cam - Matt is VERY good at choosing what works for these cars - and add a pulley if there isn't already one on there. Often times people will do a lower and/or a LS9 cam and not upgrade the springs, but you just won't know until you pull it apart. Adding in pistons and incidentals will take you over that $4k mark but IMHO it's better to spend extra now vs doing it twice later
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
I did the 4.07 wiseco 11cc dish, molnar rods. I got the rods for 530 and pistons for 700 from titian motorsports. I doubt the head is trashed, prob cheaper to fix it.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,454 Posts
You need better cooling. Go with a track attack or similar
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,918 Posts
Is the tune "OK" for your area of the country?

Elevation and fuel specifically

Just a lot can differ 1300 miles away


Sent from your Mom's bedroom using TapaMilf 2.0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,629 Posts
Is the tune "OK" for your area of the country?

Elevation and fuel specifically

Just a lot can differ 1300 miles away


Sent from your Mom's bedroom using TapaMilf 2.0
This is one of the more worrisome parts of a custom tune. Logic says a car can be tuned for everywhere as they are sold all over the world but when you go to a custom tune do all reputable tuners allow for the same forgiveness. I'll be driving my car from calgary, somewhat high elevation, to the coast, sea lvl duh ��, if my tuner is one of the more reputable guys around here will it compensate for the elevation difference? I've told him that I take the car on road trips and I'm not chasing records or dyno numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,678 Posts
TSP has a forged piston/rod combo around $1000 shipped. New LSA crank is $475 shipped (if you need one). I also needed an new block and crank, which added $2700 to the pile, but you SHOULD be able to forge your engine for $4k, if you don't need a block and crank.

...and a stock LSA oil pump is sufficient...and cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
This is the dark side of "back to stock" conversions where people strip off as much as they can before trading it in - often ignoring a decent tune because they know it will be someone else's problem. Obviously I don't really know if your failure was just bad luck or because of the prior owner, but if I had to guess based on how durable these cars seem to be (with the right components)... however, you have a great attitude and it can be hard to choose parts until you know what all you're dealing with.

If the heads are toast, grab the WCCH stage 2 heads from Lt1z in the f/s section along with a comparable cam - Matt is VERY good at choosing what works for these cars - and add a pulley if there isn't already one on there. Often times people will do a lower and/or a LS9 cam and not upgrade the springs, but you just won't know until you pull it apart. Adding in pistons and incidentals will take you over that $4k mark but IMHO it's better to spend extra now vs doing it twice later
You are exactly right, i wont know exactly until i tear it apart. (Hopefully in a week) to see what caused it and what is salvageable. You guys have given me affordable options in any case. haha, yeah my attitude didnt start this way, took me a few days to "grieve".

Here is the view from the borescope into #8.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Is the tune "OK" for your area of the country?

Elevation and fuel specifically

Just a lot can differ 1300 miles away


Sent from your Mom's bedroom using TapaMilf 2.0

I have no idea how the tune is. Seems from the drive back, the shift point on the A6 need adjusting. I'm 1200' higher in elevation and the best gasoline is 91 here. As i said earlier, I plan on going to E85 as soon as i can afford to do the entire fuel system. I havent found a tuner i like here in OKC. Ive gone to Texas for my last two cars. Im conisdering doing the mail order tune for this one. Any recommendations for this would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
You are exactly right, i wont know exactly until i tear it apart. (Hopefully in a week) to see what caused it and what is salvageable. You guys have given me affordable options in any case. haha, yeah my attitude didnt start this way, took me a few days to "grieve".

Here is the view from the borescope into #8.
Man that looks like a part of the plug or something is stuck in the Piston.

But build it stronger and better!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Any update on how big the damage actually was? What did you end up replacing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Not just yet dracov. I didn't get to start pulling until Sunday. I got about 15 solid hours in it and she's ready to be pulled. Waiting on a shop crane to come in. Looking at the valves from the intake and exhaust ports I can't see any visible deformities. I'm back on shift now. I will have the motor pulled and heads off on Thursday. I'll post pics for you guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,747 Posts
If you need a new LSA block let me know.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top