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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace the Magnetic Ride Control™ front struts and upper control arms (as well as sway bar end links and inner/outer tie rods).

Are there any particularly unique or special requirements/tools/steps to do this for the Magnetic Ride Control™ variant?
For the magnetic ride part, are they just plug and play or do you have to do a reset or initialization with a scan tool of some kind?

Doesn't appear to be anything special based on what I can find, but I was hoping to get some confirmation before have the car in pieces only to find out I'm missing something...

Thanks in advance.

Edit: I do know I'll probably need some tie-rod tools, strut nut sockets, and perhaps a pickle fork tool (or wood + hammer).
 

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Nothing special required for the struts. No reset or anything. Just be sure the washer with the internal step goes on the right way. If you bought ac delco struts there should be a new one in the hardware bag. The larger ID step goes down over the strut shaft. If you get it backwards the stackup causes a shallow connection on the electrical connector. I had one backwards and was getting a service suspension light on big bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For anyone interested in the future. I wasn't too excited about using the widow-maker style spring clamps commonly found as rentals from auto parts stores so I picked up one of these. I specifically picked up one with the trailer jack style clamp rather than hydraulic because my luck the hydraulic would leak sometime between this use and a use in the future on some other vehicle. The jack style one should work for decades (which will prob only be a handful of times). Considering labor estimate for the total front end work I was planning on doing was 1250, spending $140 to be able to do it all in the garage was well worth it for me (given I also like to work on the vehicle when I can... put the OEM service manual to good use). Then just had to get an alignment check after the work was finished (which I would have had to do anyway).

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the bottom of the frame /tool should be thicker steel. It flexes but it worked anyway. In the future I will weld in some stiffeners on the underside and bolt it down once I have a permanent shop.
 
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