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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure what could be the problem, I have a 2010 ctsv. Swapped out all four struts. Mechanic forgot to plug in the rear drive side. So the lights for the abs traction and everything else turn on. We tired unplugging the battery over night, car got an alignment and still nothing. Lights are still on. Anyone know how to reset it? Is it something that will just reset on a drive cycle?
 

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Make sure the other corner connectors are seated properly. As far as I know, a relearn isn't necessary or possible....plug and play if everything is connected.
 

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Do you still have your old shocks? You could plug in your old shocks 1 at a time without installing. I would check the wiring connectors. I had a left rear shock replaced under warranty and service suspension note came up after the replacement. Mechanic broke the clip/connector. Dealer had to order a new connector or clip to fix the problem.
 

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So we disconnected everything and replugged everything. Still nothing. Fuses are all good. Could driving around with it not connected cause the strut to go out?
The shock won't work as intended to provide near-instant dampening with it disconnected. The valving within is similar to a conventional shock, but the magic is in the magnetoreological fluid that can be made more (or less) resistant to flow when a current is applied to it, die to the ferrous particles suspended in the oil.

If there is isn't any sweating on the outside of the shock, it could have been cleaned off by the previous owner. Maybe someone here can indicate what the resting parameters of the connection point should be with the engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you still have your old shocks? You could plug in your old shocks 1 at a time without installing. I would check the wiring connectors. I had a left rear shock replaced under warranty and service suspension note came up after the replacement. Mechanic broke the clip/connector. Dealer had to order a new connector or clip to fix the problem.
I don’t have the old shocks as the mechanic thru them away. I did order new connectors thinking they might have been bad.

The shock won't work as intended to provide near-instant dampening with it disconnected. The valving within is similar to a conventional shock, but the magic is in the magnetoreological fluid that can be made more (or less) resistant to flow when a current is applied to it, die to the ferrous particles suspended in the oil.

If there is isn't any sweating on the outside of the shock, it could have been cleaned off by the previous owner. Maybe someone here can indicate what the resting parameters of the connection point should be with the engine running.
I have a meter I could tested for power or is it a Omhs readin that comes out of there?
 

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The coils have resistance, which is how the computer can detect if the coil is not working. But I imagine it's pretty low resistance, less than an Ohm. I'd compare the resistance of the coils on all 4 shocks to see if one has a much lower resistance (coil shorted) or much higher/infinite resistance (coil open). The connectors can be visually inspected. I'd be surprised if they're faulty unless they look corroded or physically damaged. Check the contacts in the connector to make sure none have been bent over).

The fault appeared after the shocks were swapped, so there are no other likely causes for the problem except - 1 or more of the shocks are defective, or a connector was damaged in the swap.
 
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