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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need some help deciding the torque pattern for my LSX head. GM Performance was unable to provide me the information, I've searched around with no luck.

It's my opinion to torque the eight M8 (additional bolts common to LSX heads) that surround the cylinders in conjunction with 1-10 M11 bolts prior to the top five M8 bolt locations?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated...

Image #1 standard head:
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Image #2 LSX head:
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Image #3 LSX head (Considering this?)
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I need some help deciding the torque pattern for my LSX head. GM Performance was unable to provide me the information, I've searched around with no luck.

It's my opinion to torque the eight M8 bolts that surround the cylinders in conjunction with 1-10 M11 bolts prior to the top five M8 bolt locations?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated...

(See attached torque pattern images.) View attachment 160327 View attachment 160328

 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Little ones go last, basically.


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When I helped my buddy with his last engine build, we did little ones last, and he's a pretty detail oriented fella who's built an LS or three. He had no chart, but he had a pattern he followed from memory, that I'm betting matched or closely followed the ARP instructions.
 

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The OEM bolts seemed pretty solid, plus the extra 8 M8 bolts.
But yeah, you still should go ARP 2000 studs.

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My concern is r&r clearance issue using studs with engine in the vehicle.
The studs usually have a female hex key on the end or some other means of backing them out once the nut is off, if that's what you mean. I did ARP head studs on an LS3 in a C6 that we put short block in first and then put heads on in the car, no issues, and removed heads (sooner than I'd have liked), again, no issue.

Unless I'm misunderstanding the concern, in which case disregard.
 

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You NEED to use the ARP studs if you can find them, second best would be the ARP bolts.
There is a video (I think it was the Torque Test Channel) that proves the actual clamping provided and also yield limits of the various fastener options. the difference is * DRAMATIC*
Seriously….FOUND IT
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You NEED to use the ARP studs if you can find them, second best would be the ARP bolts.
There is a video (I think it was the Torque Test Channel) that proves the actual clamping provided and also yield limits of the various fastener options. the difference is * DRAMATIC*
Seriously….FOUND IT
Thanks for sharing, very informative. I think it would be a lot of fun extracting all the broken bolts from the test samples. Maybe another how to video using various techniques and tools.
 

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You NEED to use the ARP studs if you can find them, second best would be the ARP bolts.
There is a video (I think it was the Torque Test Channel) that proves the actual clamping provided and also yield limits of the various fastener options. the difference is * DRAMATIC*
Seriously….FOUND IT
Per those results, the Amazon/ebay chinesium studs actually seem like a viable choice for a budget build. Not necessarily relevant here, but in a junkyard LS project on the cheap?
 

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Thanks for sharing, very informative. I think it would be a lot of fun extracting all the broken bolts from the test samples. Maybe another how to video using various techniques and tools.
They followed this up with testing of thread repair methods Helicoil/Timesert/epoxy/others
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They followed this up with testing of thread repair methods Helicoil/Timesert/epoxy/others
Glad to learn they put the test samples to good further use. Definitely a skill/art that requires practice. Some situations you only get one clean shot if your lucky! I'll look for the follow-up, those guys had a real sense of humor. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You NEED to use the ARP studs if you can find them, second best would be the ARP bolts.
There is a video (I think it was the Torque Test Channel) that proves the actual clamping provided and also yield limits of the various fastener options. the difference is * DRAMATIC*
Seriously….FOUND IT
I'll be going with ARP 8740 hex bolts for now, I'll upgrade to the 2000 studs when I get the heads ported sometime in the future. The 8740 hex bolts compare to stock TTY hex bolts based on the test video you posted, so I should be good. In addition, it will make the installation a bit easier too, not having to position the torque degree gauge multiple times in a confined space. thanks...
 
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