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750 RWHP, 750 RWTQ on a mustang dyno, which probably doesn’t mean shit. I’m on the original frame with no cage or good axles, so I haven’t put a tire on it and tried to get an ET. Morrison or roadster shop chassis is coming up next...

Im guessing by spray rails, you mean fuel rail. I’m on the factory rail currently, with no problems so far.

I used the track attack heat exchanger from my V. I modified the hood latch support bracket to put it in front of the radiator. Probably will be redoing that soon for a little more clearance. Has worked perfectly fine for the last 4 years though. IAT’s have always stayed in check.
 
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Shouldn’t you be posting some damn pics!?

I’m assuming that is the Holley ls install kit...? How did that work out for you?
 

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750 RWHP, 750 RWTQ on a mustang dyno, which probably doesn’t mean shit. I’m on the original frame with no cage or good axles, so I haven’t put a tire on it and tried to get an ET. Morrison or roadster shop chassis is coming up next...

Im guessing by spray rails, you mean fuel rail. I’m on the factory rail currently, with no problems so far.

I used the track attack heat exchanger from my V. I modified the hood latch support bracket to put it in front of the radiator. Probably will be redoing that soon for a little more clearance. Has worked perfectly fine for the last 4 years though. IAT’s have always stayed in check.
I am at the limit of factory fuel rails with DW300 in tank pumps and an Aux pump kit - possibly at the limit of these pumps without a BAP.

~900 RWHP on 75% ethanol, and I juuuuust start losing rail pressure over 6k RPM.

So I'm thinking factory fuel rails are not going to be a problem for OP.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I am at the limit of factory fuel rails with DW300 in tank pumps and an Aux pump kit - possibly at the limit of these pumps without a BAP.

~900 RWHP on 75% ethanol, and I juuuuust start losing rail pressure over 6k RPM.

So I'm thinking factory fuel rails are not going to be a problem for OP.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
You can’t expect me to remember the longest build thread details ever. Yes, I mean, even longer than Bens build thread! ;)

Your twin DW300 pumps?

And, how do we know if the problem is the pumps, rail or injectors..?

My chevelle has had an issue multiple times, where it seems like I just run out of fuel. I don’t think it’s my power level. Twin 450’s, e85, stock rail, FIC 850 injectors. I have a restomod fuel tank with the pumps in a hat. When I’m on the throttle really hard through a few gears, it makes a weird sound like it can’t handle the air, like it’s hiccuping... it rarely happens, but I rarely try running it through more than one or two gears. So the fuel could be sloshing to the back of the tank, and the pumps go dry (doubtful), or it’s one of the other fuel system issues...
 

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You can’t expect me to remember the longest build thread details ever. Yes, I mean, even longer than Bens build thread! ;)

Your twin DW300 pumps?

And, how do we know if the problem is the pumps, rail or injectors..?

My chevelle has had an issue multiple times, where it seems like I just run out of fuel. I don’t think it’s my power level. Twin 450’s, e85, stock rail, FIC 850 injectors. I have a restomod fuel tank with the pumps in a hat. When I’m on the throttle really hard through a few gears, it makes a weird sound like it can’t handle the air, like it’s hiccuping... it rarely happens, but I rarely try running it through more than one or two gears. So the fuel could be sloshing to the back of the tank, and the pumps go dry (doubtful), or it’s one of the other fuel system issues...
Did you use Holley Fuel Mats on your build? If you are getting fuel sloshing, those bad boys would likely solve your problem.

As for me, you're right - I could use more pump to "push" through the restrictions, but realistically I think it's fair to say the stock rails (and arguable the OEM single-feed line) are the biggest restrictions at this point. Guys more experienced with me have suggested as such in the past.

The real question is: is that YOUR problem? I'd suggest not.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yeah I doubt my motor is going to need larger rails based on what you guys are saying and your power levels. But I also need to check which rail I got. I think I went with the Caddy as it was cheaper than the ZL-1 by a large amount with seemingly no justification. I DID go with the ZL-1 lid for obvious reasons.

Yes the mounts (1.25" forward), long tubes and cross member were all Holley. The trans is RPM, their second from the highest level (didnt need pump and cooler). The car is currently a 3.73, 12 bolt posi, likely all stock (till I hurt something). Rear suspension is stock besides trailing arms.

Once the tank shows up ill get some more pics. I could take pics of the all black Wegner kit but its all still in the boxes.
I still need to decide on blower pulley sizes tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Same setup as you, car and transmission. 376 LSA, gmpp cnc ls3 heads, Matt’s 2.5 cam, stock CR, and all the typical supporting stuff. View attachment 148641
What shift lever did you go with? I called Holley and they couldnt tell me, lol. Did you use the 1.25" forward motor mounts as well? The Hurst I have hits the dash one direction, if I flip it around it hits the bench seat if its not slid all the way back (i have no idea which part number it is, its an old shifter a friend gave me for mockup).
 

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I have the magnum kit from American power train, I’m using their white lightning shifter that lets you clock the handle where you like it.

My motor mounts and transmission mount are from muscle rods. Horrible kit for the A body’s, would never recommend there Abody mounts to anyone. The driveline angle was horrible. I cut the motor mounts apart and rebuilt them to the correct angle and location I wanted it at.

I did an ls swap in a 67 firebird with the muscle rods kit, and it worked out just fine. A body stuff was just way off for some reason.

Currently doing a swap in an 80 firebird, and am using all the Holley swap stuff.
 
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