LSA Drop in forged piston and Rods

If you have the motor out and are doing all of this work, you might as well do it all. Cylinders on these engines are significantly out of round and need to be honed after a while. Also you at least need that because new rings will not break in properly on cylinder walls that aren't freshly honed. The crank will not need machine work most likely, just clean and polish but in order to confirm that you need to measure it.

In short there's no such thing as a drop in piston and rod. Main bearings need to be measured as well and sized. If you are going to touch the short block it is either all or none

Edit: I said all of this because you indicated you didn't want machine work, but if so any standard LS forged rod will work and there are plenty of 4.070 (10 thou overbore after honing) options posted on here that will get you what you want. But before you do that I would recommend getting the block cleaned and honed first because sometimes this reveals cracks (It did for me)

I get that you weren't planning to do a rebuild but the lifter situation forced you this far. It would be nice to 'forge it up while in there' and we certainly will agree.
As Matt said, balancing will be needed and at the most basic level the crank should be polished and measured. There are lots of 4.070 piston choices and they all require a proper machine-honing operation for fit. It's not the old ball hone-on-a-drill maneuver that we used to do for the quickie iron block 'refresh', it has to be a machine process for these LSA blocks if you want it to seal and to last.
You don't have to go off the deep end like some of us crazies do, but you'll be way ahead if you put enough in to do the bottom right. You can do the top end and blower porting and all the fun stuff later and incrementally if needed, but it's a grand idea to do the bottom ONCE!