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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Have a bad crank seal and I'm about to replace it. This is the first time doing a crank seal on my car.

1. Is the crank bolt left hand or right hand thread?
2. Do I need to replace the bolt?
3. What is the part number for the bolt if replacement is necessary?
4. What is the torque spec for the crank bolt?

If anyone has any additional knowledge I need to know about removing and reinstalling the Lingenfelter pulley and dampener that would also be appreciated.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks idahogn, A/C belt got shredded and noticed my crank seal leaking so that is what started this whole adventure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, I removed the supercharger lower pulley and used those bolts for the balancer remover. This pulley will not budge, I've cranked it all the way down and it just rotates the engine. Should the pulley be this hard to remove, am I doing something wrong? Any tricks for a stubborn balancer?
 

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If you are manual you need to put it in gear. If you are an auto you need to lock down the flywheel. Mine being an auto I used a flywheel lock by pulling the starter and using a flywheel lock I got off ebay. The puller I used was a 27139 from Autozone. I got a longer bolt (M16-2.0 x 130mm bolt for $5)to use to pull it off and put my new balancer on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you are manual you need to put it in gear. If you are an auto you need to lock down the flywheel. Mine being an auto I used a flywheel lock by pulling the starter and using a flywheel lock I got off ebay. The puller I used was a 27139 from Autozone. I got a longer bolt (M16-2.0 x 130mm bolt for $5)to use to pull it off and put my new balancer on.
You have a link for the flywheel lock?
 

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You can use a large screwdriver through the balancer on an auto to lock the crank as you loosen the crank bolt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Are you taking about removing the harmonic balancer bolt or the balancer it self?
For the bolt, use a good impact wrench and air, if that's not available the flywheel lock.
The balancer, I pull off with the Chrysler style balancer puller.
Like this


When going back together, it is very important it is torqued correctly.
If using the arp bolt, you need to hit that 240ft lbs. You should do so with arp lube under the washer and on the threads. Before installing the crank bolt, clean the hole and threads.
Loctite is not a suitable replacement for bolt stretch. Stretch is what keeps the bolt from backing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are you taking about removing the harmonic balancer bolt or the balancer it self?
For the bolt, use a good impact wrench and air, if that's not available the flywheel lock.
The balancer, I pull off with the Chrysler style balancer puller.
Like this

When going back together, it is very important it is torqued correctly.
If using the arp bolt, you need to hit that 240ft lbs. You should do so with arp lube under the washer and on the threads. Before installing the crank bolt, clean the hole and threads.
Loctite is not a suitable replacement for bolt stretch. Stretch is what keeps the bolt from backing out.
Bolt is already out. That puller you've listed will not work on my pulley, it is not large enough.
 

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If you have the Lingenfelter Balancer you will need a different puller. You need the 3 bolt puller. You may also need something to take up the space to get the balalncer off before you bottom out the puller.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you have the Lingenfelter Balancer you will need a different puller. You need the 3 bolt puller. You may also need something to take up the space to get the balalncer off before you bottom out the puller.
Yup, I am working with the 3 bolt puller. Ordered the flywheel lock because that seems to be the problem right now.
 

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Curious why you need the flywheel lock now. I’ve never had to use a flywheel lock to pull the balancer once the bolt is out. The puller should have a spot to put a wrench on it to keep it from turning as you drove the large bolt into the face of the crank.
 

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When going back together, it is very important it is torqued correctly.
If using the arp bolt, you need to hit that 240ft lbs. You should do so with arp lube under the washer and on the threads. Before installing the crank bolt, clean the hole and threads.
Loctite is not a suitable replacement for bolt stretch. Stretch is what keeps the bolt from backing out.
I read mixed reviews with this statement.

Alot of people use loctite on the thread and lube on the washer.

Otherwise it will back out.
 

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I read mixed reviews with this statement.

Alot of people use loctite on the thread and lube on the washer.

Otherwise it will back out.
I caved to peer pressure and loctited the threads and RTV'd the washer and underside of the bolt.
 
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