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Trying to get some feed back on what might be the problem with this engine....or probably me with install.

I am seeing around 35psi on cold start (dash numbers), oil pressure will slowly decline the hotter the oil gets until the dash reads like 10-12. When accelerating, the dash shows higher pressures which still might be lower but it moves. Today I hooked up an OTC pressure tester to an OTC oil filter puck type adapter. The cold and hot idle on the pressure gauge was about 2psi higher than what the dash said, at cold or hot idle. When accelerating, it did show quite a difference on pressure. It was about 10 to 15psi higher than what the dash would show (45psi about 4-5k rpm on gauge and about 32 to 35 on dash). I didn't want to hold a steady high rpm to keep a high pressure reading as the engine is still breaking in and with no filter, I didn't want too much crap going back in. I have about 250 miles on the new engine. About 150 were put on driving to a bigger city about an hour north of me and back. Even though I am worried about the PSI, it has been consistent since first start but I am pretty sure it shouldn't be that low. I am also on some unknown tune but I am assuming tune shouldn't effect oil pressure.

I am suspecting either a bad oil pump, or bad install of any or all components on my end. (I'm not a mechanic and I've been doing this whole thing myself). I also used some Royal Purple engine break in oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it to RP 5-30 after. I was told to try and go 40 but would 30 to 40 make that much difference?

Brand new crate LSX376B15. Replaced factory cam, springs, retainers, upgraded trunnions, pushrods, as far as internal changes, all done on an engine dolly. External changes shouldn't be a factor.

I really don't want to have to pull the engine back out and start over. I hope with good feedback I can eliminate the possibilites from the easiest to the hardest.

Thanks in advance.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Trying to get some feed back on what might be the problem with this engine....or probably me with install.

I am seeing around 35psi on cold start (dash numbers), oil pressure will slowly decline the hotter the oil gets until the dash reads like 10-12. When accelerating, the dash shows higher pressures which still might be lower but it moves. Today I hooked up an OTC pressure tester to an OTC oil filter puck type adapter. The cold and hot idle on the pressure gauge was about 2psi higher than what the dash said, at cold or hot idle. When accelerating, it did show quite a difference on pressure. It was about 10 to 15psi higher than what the dash would show (45psi about 4-5k rpm on gauge and about 32 to 35 on dash). I didn't want to hold a steady high rpm to keep a high pressure reading as the engine is still breaking in and with no filter, I didn't want too much crap going back in. I have about 250 miles on the new engine. About 150 were put on driving to a bigger city about an hour north of me and back. Even though I am worried about the PSI, it has been consistent since first start but I am pretty sure it shouldn't be that low. I am also on some unknown tune but I am assuming tune shouldn't effect oil pressure.

I am suspecting either a bad oil pump, or bad install of any or all components on my end. (I'm not a mechanic and I've been doing this whole thing myself). I also used some Royal Purple engine break in oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it to RP 5-30 after. I was told to try and go 40 but would 30 to 40 make that much difference?

Brand new crate LSX376B15. Replaced factory cam, springs, retainers, upgraded trunnions, pushrods, as far as internal changes, all done on an engine dolly. External changes shouldn't be a factor.

I really don't want to have to pull the engine back out and start over. I hope with good feedback I can eliminate the possibilites from the easiest to the hardest.

Thanks in advance.
[/QUOT
Trying to get some feed back on what might be the problem with this engine....or probably me with install.

I am seeing around 35psi on cold start (dash numbers), oil pressure will slowly decline the hotter the oil gets until the dash reads like 10-12. When accelerating, the dash shows higher pressures which still might be lower but it moves. Today I hooked up an OTC pressure tester to an OTC oil filter puck type adapter. The cold and hot idle on the pressure gauge was about 2psi higher than what the dash said, at cold or hot idle. When accelerating, it did show quite a difference on pressure. It was about 10 to 15psi higher than what the dash would show (45psi about 4-5k rpm on gauge and about 32 to 35 on dash). I didn't want to hold a steady high rpm to keep a high pressure reading as the engine is still breaking in and with no filter, I didn't want too much crap going back in. I have about 250 miles on the new engine. About 150 were put on driving to a bigger city about an hour north of me and back. Even though I am worried about the PSI, it has been consistent since first start but I am pretty sure it shouldn't be that low. I am also on some unknown tune but I am assuming tune shouldn't effect oil pressure.

I am suspecting either a bad oil pump, or bad install of any or all components on my end. (I'm not a mechanic and I've been doing this whole thing myself). I also used some Royal Purple engine break in oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it to RP 5-30 after. I was told to try and go 40 but would 30 to 40 make that much difference?

Brand new crate LSX376B15. Replaced factory cam, springs, retainers, upgraded trunnions, pushrods, as far as internal changes, all done on an engine dolly. External changes shouldn't be a factor.

I really don't want to have to pull the engine back out and start over. I hope with good feedback I can eliminate the possibilites from the easiest to the hardest.

Thanks in advance.
Trying to get some feed back on what might be the problem with this engine....or probably me with install.

I am seeing around 35psi on cold start (dash numbers), oil pressure will slowly decline the hotter the oil gets until the dash reads like 10-12. When accelerating, the dash shows higher pressures which still might be lower but it moves. Today I hooked up an OTC pressure tester to an OTC oil filter puck type adapter. The cold and hot idle on the pressure gauge was about 2psi higher than what the dash said, at cold or hot idle. When accelerating, it did show quite a difference on pressure. It was about 10 to 15psi higher than what the dash would show (45psi about 4-5k rpm on gauge and about 32 to 35 on dash). I didn't want to hold a steady high rpm to keep a high pressure reading as the engine is still breaking in and with no filter, I didn't want too much crap going back in. I have about 250 miles on the new engine. About 150 were put on driving to a bigger city about an hour north of me and back. Even though I am worried about the PSI, it has been consistent since first start but I am pretty sure it shouldn't be that low. I am also on some unknown tune but I am assuming tune shouldn't effect oil pressure.

I am suspecting either a bad oil pump, or bad install of any or all components on my end. (I'm not a mechanic and I've been doing this whole thing myself). I also used some Royal Purple engine break in oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it to RP 5-30 after. I was told to try and go 40 but would 30 to 40 make that much difference?

Brand new crate LSX376B15. Replaced factory cam, springs, retainers, upgraded trunnions, pushrods, as far as internal changes, all done on an engine dolly. External changes shouldn't be a factor.

I really don't want to have to pull the engine back out and start over. I hope with good feedback I can eliminate the possibilites from the easiest to the hardest.

Thanks in advance.
Hey,
I replaced my LSA with a B15 also, huge advantages with the iron block: better rotation assembly, extra head bolts, .2" thick siamese cylinder walls, priority main oiling, ZR1 cam, etc... GM recommends Mobile1 5-30 for these engines. I am surprised that you did not just install the long block stock from GM? Anyway, I have consistently been at between 30-25 oil pressure HOT, 30psi cold at idle and under 3000rpms. I would say as long as you are above 22psi HOT under 3000rpms you are doing well. The tune is critical at WOT, make sure you are not lean! Make sure your oil pressure increases at WOT and does not bounce around. I would say 50-60psi oil pressure at higher rpms. Another BIG thing to know, flow and pressure are proportional, more pressure less flow, more flor less pressure, same for fuel. Oil pressure has a lot to do with bearing clearances, clearances may not be the same for B15 vs LSA, keep that in mind. If you are fueling with your stock pulse non-return fuel system, consider upgrading fuel pumps, such as DW300c pumps and swapping the PRV to 80-90psi. Fuel flow for DW pumps is max at 40psi. Make sure to properly tune the engine and FPCM in unison, tables in both need to be changed in order to properly tune fuel flow, pressure, including injector duty cycles. There is a lot to this!!! Most tuners have no clue about tuning the FPCM, check around yourself. But if the FPCM is properly tuned on a stock CTSV along with the engine fuel, I argue it is better than a return system up to about 800-850hp. By the way, why did you change the cam?
 

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What oil are you using?

It sounds like your pressure is lower than expected across the board, but not catastrophic necessarily.

It's possible to pinch the oil ring on the pickup tube in the pan and bleed off pressure. Unfortunately it is a real bitch to get to with the motor in the car- but is a likely source of your problem.

Having the wrong oil pump is also common, but I believe you don't have piston squirters so it's less likely to be an issue.

ETA - not running a filter? WTF, man? Break in is the most contaminated your oil is ever going to be and you're not running a filter?

ETA x2 - unknown tune also? Do you have any idea what kind of AFR or timing you're running? Lots of questions with what you expect from this...

SMH. I feel sorry for those brand new bearings.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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10-12 hot idle oil pressure is concerning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey,
I replaced my LSA with a B15 also, huge advantages with the iron block: better rotation assembly, extra head bolts, .2" thick siamese cylinder walls, priority main oiling, ZR1 cam, etc... GM recommends Mobile1 5-30 for these engines. I am surprised that you did not just install the long block stock from GM? Anyway, I have consistently been at between 30-25 oil pressure HOT, 30psi cold at idle and under 3000rpms. I would say as long as you are above 22psi HOT under 3000rpms you are doing well. The tune is critical at WOT, make sure you are not lean! Make sure your oil pressure increases at WOT and does not bounce around. I would say 50-60psi oil pressure at higher rpms. Another BIG thing to know, flow and pressure are proportional, more pressure less flow, more flor less pressure, same for fuel. Oil pressure has a lot to do with bearing clearances, clearances may not be the same for B15 vs LSA, keep that in mind. If you are fueling with your stock pulse non-return fuel system, consider upgrading fuel pumps, such as DW300c pumps and swapping the PRV to 80-90psi. Fuel flow for DW pumps is max at 40psi. Make sure to properly tune the engine and FPCM in unison, tables in both need to be changed in order to properly tune fuel flow, pressure, including injector duty cycles. There is a lot to this!!! Most tuners have no clue about tuning the FPCM, check around yourself. But if the FPCM is properly tuned on a stock CTSV along with the engine fuel, I argue it is better than a return system up to about 800-850hp. By the way, why did you change the cam?
Stock has never been my strong suit. My first car I bought on my own was a 98 Integra GSR. Ended up supercharging that and later eventually turbo with all supporting mods. This was back in like...2001 maybe. I paid shops to do the work but had to take it to shops out of town which was always a pain in the butt, especially when there were problems. After that, I went on to buy performance cars from the factory and never upgraded them. As much as fun as they were, they were boring. ANYHOW, I just knew I wanted a cam and figured it was best to install one while the engine was out than put the engine in and have to change it later. In hindsight, I guess I could have installed it as is and dealt with upgrades later. I already have DW300c pumps installed and changed the prv that came with the pumps. I am assuming that what came with it is the 80-90psi you are referencing. Im also on ID1050s.

What oil are you using?

It sounds like your pressure is lower than expected across the board, but not catastrophic necessarily.

It's possible to pinch the oil ring on the pickup tube in the pan and bleed off pressure. Unfortunately it is a real bitch to get to with the motor in the car- but is a likely source of your problem.

Having the wrong oil pump is also common, but I believe you don't have piston squirters so it's less likely to be an issue.

ETA - not running a filter? WTF, man? Break in is the most contaminated your oil is ever going to be and you're not running a filter?

ETA x2 - unknown tune also? Do you have any idea what kind of AFR or timing you're running? Lots of questions with what you expect from this...

SMH. I feel sorry for those brand new bearings.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
I am running Royal Purple 5-30 right now.

I was doing my best to not pinch that O-Ring. It was a brand new pick up tube and the o ring was new. I lubed up the ring and it slid in easy pretty easily before I bolted it on and I used an aftermarket clamp to hold the pickup tube nice and tight using the other bolt hole. I could have pinched it still, not ruling that out.

I was sold the Melling pump for the LSA, I pulled off the pump that came with the LSX but once I was told it was the wrong pump, I put the pump that came with the LSX back on. This is where I think I messed something up when I bolted that back in but I'm hoping it can be something else. Pump and or o-ring still means taking it back apart and being in the car means pain in the arse.

I do run a filter. I took it off only for this mechanical gauge test as I wanted to confirm whether or not the dash gauge was accurate, which I find that it is close on idle but not close on acceleration. Filter is back on after the testing. I know it was a risk but, I didn't know of any other way to test mechanically while in the car. Not many things are easily accessible in the engine bay.

I do know that running the car, even with good oil pressure is a risk with an unknown tune. I was going to buy a new ECU but I was afraid that with all that I have installed on the car, it wouldn't even run properly if at all and I would have no way of driving the car to break in the engine. Damned if you do, damned if you don't kind of situation. I did install a wideband to make sure I am within a decent afr range. To be honest, I don't think it helped much. The gauge read decent stoich with it moving a little to the leaner side (15 to 16) when at complete operating temperature so I do feel safe about that for now.

@random84 I know you are a wealth of knowledge, thank you for taking a look. Questions for you, if you don't mind, would installation of cam/springs/retainers/pushrods/trunnions have anything to do with the oil pressure? Also, with factory GM pumps, do those need to be shimmed or anything before tightening down or are they pretty much self centering?

I also heard that GM is notorious for having bad pumps factory. Not that it makes a difference, but it would make me feel better knowing it wasn't the idiot doing the work and just bad luck.

Thanks again @random84 and @kittyboy . This forum is the best resource for the V! I couldn't have made it this far on my own without it.
 

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Stock has never been my strong suit. My first car I bought on my own was a 98 Integra GSR. Ended up supercharging that and later eventually turbo with all supporting mods. This was back in like...2001 maybe. I paid shops to do the work but had to take it to shops out of town which was always a pain in the butt, especially when there were problems. After that, I went on to buy performance cars from the factory and never upgraded them. As much as fun as they were, they were boring. ANYHOW, I just knew I wanted a cam and figured it was best to install one while the engine was out than put the engine in and have to change it later. In hindsight, I guess I could have installed it as is and dealt with upgrades later. I already have DW300c pumps installed and changed the prv that came with the pumps. I am assuming that what came with it is the 80-90psi you are referencing. Im also on ID1050s.


I am running Royal Purple 5-30 right now.

I was doing my best to not pinch that O-Ring. It was a brand new pick up tube and the o ring was new. I lubed up the ring and it slid in easy pretty easily before I bolted it on and I used an aftermarket clamp to hold the pickup tube nice and tight using the other bolt hole. I could have pinched it still, not ruling that out.

I was sold the Melling pump for the LSA, I pulled off the pump that came with the LSX but once I was told it was the wrong pump, I put the pump that came with the LSX back on. This is where I think I messed something up when I bolted that back in but I'm hoping it can be something else. Pump and or o-ring still means taking it back apart and being in the car means pain in the arse.

I do run a filter. I took it off only for this mechanical gauge test as I wanted to confirm whether or not the dash gauge was accurate, which I find that it is close on idle but not close on acceleration. Filter is back on after the testing. I know it was a risk but, I didn't know of any other way to test mechanically while in the car. Not many things are easily accessible in the engine bay.

I do know that running the car, even with good oil pressure is a risk with an unknown tune. I was going to buy a new ECU but I was afraid that with all that I have installed on the car, it wouldn't even run properly if at all and I would have no way of driving the car to break in the engine. Damned if you do, damned if you don't kind of situation. I did install a wideband to make sure I am within a decent afr range. To be honest, I don't think it helped much. The gauge read decent stoich with it moving a little to the leaner side (15 to 16) when at complete operating temperature so I do feel safe about that for now.

@random84 I know you are a wealth of knowledge, thank you for taking a look. Questions for you, if you don't mind, would installation of cam/springs/retainers/pushrods/trunnions have anything to do with the oil pressure? Also, with factory GM pumps, do those need to be shimmed or anything before tightening down or are they pretty much self centering?

I also heard that GM is notorious for having bad pumps factory. Not that it makes a difference, but it would make me feel better knowing it wasn't the idiot doing the work and just bad luck.

Thanks again @random84 and @kittyboy . This forum is the best resource for the V! I couldn't have made it this far on my own without it.
I don't know what the bearing clearances are for the B15 crate engine, but given the purpose of that short block (boost-ready), I'd suspect they are a little looser, and thus you could run a w10 oil for higher pressure. Single digits at idle when hot is suspicious to me - I'd switch to 10w40 and see how it goes at the least.

Oil pressure can be influenced by pushrod diameter somewhat, but I doubt that is the issue given your setup. If you took care with the pickup tube o-ring, then you're probably good. Looking at the oil pump (either shimming, gaskets or just the wrong pump) is probably a great place to start - unfortunately I have very little experience here and will have to defer to others.

The tune isn't going to account for your low oil pressure, but I would invest in a proper remote tune so you don't pop something once you DO get it all figured out.

I wish I could be more help, but hopefully the truly experienced guys like @Rubber Duck or @Lt1z can give you better advice!
 

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I'd replace the oil pressure sender first, before doing anything else. It's the cheapest and easiest potential fix. Something like 15 low RPM to 45 high RPM when hot, like you got with the external guage, is OK IMO.
 

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You can run a mechamical gauge to the nack of the intake manifold. Just remove the stock sensor and install the mecahnical gauge fitting THERE. Way better than running no filter. Have you changed a filter on it yet? Cut the filter open and inspect.
 

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Trying to get some feed back on what might be the problem with this engine....or probably me with install.

I am seeing around 35psi on cold start (dash numbers), oil pressure will slowly decline the hotter the oil gets until the dash reads like 10-12. When accelerating, the dash shows higher pressures which still might be lower but it moves. Today I hooked up an OTC pressure tester to an OTC oil filter puck type adapter. The cold and hot idle on the pressure gauge was about 2psi higher than what the dash said, at cold or hot idle. When accelerating, it did show quite a difference on pressure. It was about 10 to 15psi higher than what the dash would show (45psi about 4-5k rpm on gauge and about 32 to 35 on dash). I didn't want to hold a steady high rpm to keep a high pressure reading as the engine is still breaking in and with no filter, I didn't want too much crap going back in. I have about 250 miles on the new engine. About 150 were put on driving to a bigger city about an hour north of me and back. Even though I am worried about the PSI, it has been consistent since first start but I am pretty sure it shouldn't be that low. I am also on some unknown tune but I am assuming tune shouldn't effect oil pressure.

I am suspecting either a bad oil pump, or bad install of any or all components on my end. (I'm not a mechanic and I've been doing this whole thing myself). I also used some Royal Purple engine break in oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it to RP 5-30 after. I was told to try and go 40 but would 30 to 40 make that much difference?

Brand new crate LSX376B15. Replaced factory cam, springs, retainers, upgraded trunnions, pushrods, as far as internal changes, all done on an engine dolly. External changes shouldn't be a factor.

I really don't want to have to pull the engine back out and start over. I hope with good feedback I can eliminate the possibilites from the easiest to the hardest.

Thanks in advance.
The most common problem with low oil pressure 'After Engine Assembly'
with these engines is; the Oil Pump O-Ring has been installed improperly.

Also, unknown tunes after modifying (Camshaft) an engine is not good. . . .

Personally I would not drive this car until you repair the above and also install an oil filter.
 
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10-12 hot idle oil pressure is concerning.
I'd replace the oil pressure sender first, before doing anything else. It's the cheapest and easiest potential fix. Something like 15 low RPM to 45 high RPM when hot, like you got with the external guage, is OK IMO.
I am thinking that something more like ~25 psi at idle, checked
at running engine temp and appropriate idle speed, along with
the recommended weight oil would be better.

The above of course makes an assumption that the oil pressure gauge is accurate. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'd replace the oil pressure sender first, before doing anything else. It's the cheapest and easiest potential fix. Something like 15 low RPM to 45 high RPM when hot, like you got with the external guage, is OK IMO.
I am going to have to figure something out as the oil pressure sensor is giving close to mechanical readings at idle but definitely not at throttle, which I have no idea why. It all boggles me as almost everything is new. My PSI might even be higher at higher RPM but I did not want to go full throttle or hold steady high RPMs without the filter. (yes, filter was on pre and post testing btw 😅)

The most common problem with low oil pressure 'After Engine Assembly'
with these engines is; the Oil Pump O-Ring has been installed improperly.

Also, unknown tunes after modifying (Camshaft) an engine is not good. . . .

Personally I would not drive this car until you repair the above and also install an oil filter.
Thank you for taking the time to chime in. It means a lot, even if it means I'm an idiot and messed up.
I didn't want to pay for a remote tune without being able to get some miles on the engine so I can put some stress on it and get some logs. From initial start up after priming, it had a cold start of 33 to 35 and idled fine to temp. I never actually drove the car because it was never registered and I had no license plates. I did install a wideband and installed a gauge to read it and I can not confirm the accuracy of it but, it was normalish or nothing that really concerned me that I needed to not run the car as is. I never contemplated the issues of an unknown tune if I was not driving the car. Now that I am driving the car, the issues now concern me. LOL.
Also, I have always had an oil filter on it. I only took it off to check mechanical pressure and put the filter back on.
This is all a learning procedure for me so I welcome the feedback. From reading posts here, you are definitely someone who I do not question when sharing your knowledge so that is one lesson learned for sure.

Thank you again.

I have like 250 miles on this new engine. Looks like I'll be tearing apart the front end to check that O-Ring. Wondering if I should change the factory pump out with a Melling pump.

You can run a mechanical gauge to the nack of the intake manifold. Just remove the stock sensor and install the mecahnical gauge fitting THERE. Way better than running no filter. Have you changed a filter on it yet? Cut the filter open and inspect.
I was thinking of doing that but I wanted to see how close the dash reading was. If it is more than an o-ring or pump, engine has to come apart anyways so when the remove filter bolt up the puck style adapter for the reading.
So, a friend cut open the first filter after 100 miles of driving and the he said it looked pretty normal from his perspective for it being a new engine as there will always be more particles on a new engine than a worn one.

Thank you all. This is a huge learning experience for me since I have come from the world of lowriders and street imports back around late 90s, where electronics and huge numbers didnt really exist for street. I have never gotten into domestic muscle. I promise I am learning from ALL of this!
 

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My vote is pinched o-ring as it's easy to do. The Melling pump I installed came with a couple different colored o-rings to use depending on application.

I also installed the additional clamp on the pick up tube and luckily had no issues. Hot idle is 35psi, cold start is 62 and running at 1500rpm is 45.

Good luck to ya and while it's not the easiest job to tackle for such a simple problem, it's definitely worth the headache of checking.
 

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I am going to have to figure something out as the oil pressure sensor is giving close to mechanical readings at idle but definitely not at throttle, which I have no idea why. It all boggles me as almost everything is new. My PSI might even be higher at higher RPM but I did not want to go full throttle or hold steady high RPMs without the filter. (yes, filter was on pre and post testing btw 😅)


Thank you for taking the time to chime in. It means a lot, even if it means I'm an idiot and messed up.
I didn't want to pay for a remote tune without being able to get some miles on the engine so I can put some stress on it and get some logs. From initial start up after priming, it had a cold start of 33 to 35 and idled fine to temp. I never actually drove the car because it was never registered and I had no license plates. I did install a wideband and installed a gauge to read it and I can not confirm the accuracy of it but, it was normalish or nothing that really concerned me that I needed to not run the car as is. I never contemplated the issues of an unknown tune if I was not driving the car. Now that I am driving the car, the issues now concern me. LOL.
Also, I have always had an oil filter on it. I only took it off to check mechanical pressure and put the filter back on.
This is all a learning procedure for me so I welcome the feedback. From reading posts here, you are definitely someone who I do not question when sharing your knowledge so that is one lesson learned for sure.

Thank you again.

I have like 250 miles on this new engine. Looks like I'll be tearing apart the front end to check that O-Ring. Wondering if I should change the factory pump out with a Melling pump.


I was thinking of doing that but I wanted to see how close the dash reading was. If it is more than an o-ring or pump, engine has to come apart anyways so when the remove filter bolt up the puck style adapter for the reading.
So, a friend cut open the first filter after 100 miles of driving and the he said it looked pretty normal from his perspective for it being a new engine as there will always be more particles on a new engine than a worn one.

Thank you all. This is a huge learning experience for me since I have come from the world of lowriders and street imports back around late 90s, where electronics and huge numbers didnt really exist for street. I have never gotten into domestic muscle. I promise I am learning from ALL of this!
Don't feel stupid.
The stupid ones are the ones who don't ask questions!

Your not going through anything many others on this board have also
gone through before, and many more will also go through later in time.

Jim wrote:
"My vote is pinched o-ring as it's easy to do. The Melling pump I installed came with a couple different colored o-rings to use depending on application."


I believe Melling also has an anti cavitation oil pump for this engine platform.
I would highly suggest that pump.

I highly suggest you proceed with the above, and at the same time
have someone qualified, such as Pat G. do a remote tune.

I would recommend Pat G. as he also sells camshafts and will
know how to proceed safely with the tune after seeing your
cam card.

If you get your request in to him now, you won't have to wait a
month after you complete the oil pressure issue.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't feel stupid.
The stupid ones are the ones who don't ask questions!

Your not going through anything many others on this board have also
gone through before, and many more will also go through later in time.

Jim wrote:
"My vote is pinched o-ring as it's easy to do. The Melling pump I installed came with a couple different colored o-rings to use depending on application."


I believe Melling also has an anti cavitation oil pump for this engine platform.
I would highly suggest that pump.

I highly suggest you proceed with the above, and at the same time
have someone qualified, such as Pat G. do a remote tune.

I would recommend Pat G. as he also sells camshafts and will
know how to proceed safely with the tune after seeing your
cam card.

If you get your request in to him now, you won't have to wait a
month after you complete the oil pressure issue.

Good Luck!
🙏 Thank you. I believe there is only one pump that Melling sells for the LSX which I was told is the 10294. I will try and reach out to them to confirm. If I have to tear it apart to check the o-ring, might as well replace with better quality.

On a side note...what takes someone one or two days means months for me. LOL. This is my busy season and I won't see time of day til after February. I'll get an hour or two on Sundays and I work on it in the driveway. No garage for me. I will update when I get to work on it and see progress. Thank you all!!
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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609 Posts
I believe you would be better off having an experienced engine builder take over at this point, you have done quite a bit of internal work, maybe everything is still in good shape? But you need more than a driveway to do a proper job taking it apart and inspecting. You need a proper start tune. The ID1050s are excellent. I really wish you well.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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609 Posts
Wanted to add, I used the stock LSA oil pump pick-up tube for my LSX engine swap. The melling 'black' color o-ring is the equivalent replacement for the GM 'blue' color o-ring used for a non-tapered ended sump tube. I measured the diameter of the melling o-ring and it was a slightly larger diameter than the GM o-ring. I used the melling o-ring, it had a more snug fit in my opinion, this was in combination with the stock B-15 oil pump. I agree with the other post, check oil pressure sender 'first' before taking anything else apart. I'd go super easy on the engine until you get things figured out. There is just so much to consider, especially because you replaced the cam and had the engine apart.
 

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61 Posts
I'd replace the oil pressure sender first, before doing anything else. It's the cheapest and easiest potential fix. Something like 15 low RPM to 45 high RPM when hot, like you got with the external guage, is OK IMO.
You.must have just skimmed his post. He said it's within 2 psi at idle with a mechanical guage.
 

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61 Posts
I am going to have to figure something out as the oil pressure sensor is giving close to mechanical readings at idle but definitely not at throttle, which I have no idea why. It all boggles me as almost everything is new. My PSI might even be higher at higher RPM but I did not want to go full throttle or hold steady high RPMs without the filter. (yes, filter was on pre and post testing btw 😅)
Your dash guage will read lower all the time because it is at the rear of the engine. Filter is at the front, so the oil has lost pressure due to what flows to cam, lifters, main and rod bearings.
If you hold the car at a steady speed and give it a little gas, then let off just a little to keep RPM's about the same, does the pressure drop when you give it throttle and rise when you let off a bit? If so, it's main bearings.
And dump the royal purple. 10 years ago it was good and I used to run it. The last 3-4 years I've been hearing horror stories of spun bearings etc from guys running it.
 

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Premium Member
2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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1,395 Posts
FYI, Moroso also makes a high pressure high volume oil pump for the LSX.

Most Outlaw 388/427 builds from Thompson Motorsports come equipped with them. I see 77lbs of oil pressure over 6K rpm and I’ve got 18k miles on my engine.

 
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