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Loss of CAN Bus Communication Code (U0073)

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Loss of CAN Bus Communication Code (U0073)

Problem:

I have twice intermittently experienced a complete loss of CAN bus communication within approx 1.5k-2k miles of driving moderately. Vehicle resumed normal operation without any intervention in less than five minutes after both occurrences.

Both occasions with stock 'Diagnostic' configuration settings, a 'Stable Traction Control' and 'ABS' announcement on the DIC was activated with audible chime, no other announcements or warnings.

On both occasions I was logging HPtuner scanner and lost communication when the incidents occurred. I have an AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge, it was bouncing around erratically both times above the minimum ECM/FPCM fuel pressure settings. Engine operation seemed normal during the occurrences prior to engine shutdown, with exception of the fuel pressure bounce. Upon engine shutdown, I experienced 'no crank' when I made attempts to restart the engine, I was also unable to reestablish HPtuner interface. One last thing, the parking brake solenoid would only actuate when I operated the brake switch, would not stay in locked position.
(See HPtuner diagnostic code screenshot images)


Troubleshooting:

After the first failure I replaced the E67/ECU. I am running a 2 bar OS.

Both times I verified the CAN bus wiring/connectors for continuity and/or physical damage, negative.

I share the following:

A CAN bus communication loss activates code (U0073). There are #2 each 120ohm resistors in a CAN bus network that read 60ohms in a healthy circuit. To perform this test a multimeter is placed across pins #4 and #16 at the OBD2 with vehicle power off. This is just one troubleshooting test, there are other tests as well.

The 120ohm resistors in a CTS-V are located at the following locations:
A resistor is located internally in the ABS/BCM, and a resistor is located internally in the FPCM/BCM.

EDIT: The 120ohm resistor may actually be located external from the FPCM/BCM according to the attached schematic. I'm still looking for it. ;)
(see attached schematic and BCM PN images)

Also note, there is a CAN bus network connector located in proximity to the washer fluid container and potentially susceptible to washer fluid contamination/corrosion adjacent to the ABS/BCM.

The ABS/BCM is installed directly onto the "Brake Pressure Module Valve" located on the RH lower front side of vehicle forward of the wheel well, the ABS/BCM may also be susceptible to environmental and/or washer fluid contamination/corrosion due to location.

I inspected both the CAN bus connector and ABS/BCM for external signs of washer fluid and/or environmental contamination/corrosion. I then inspected connector pins common to both the network connector plug and the ABS/BCM module, I also removed the ABS/BCM from the brake master to inspect the internals, negative.

I then inspected the FPCM/BCM mounted in the trunk located on the RH sidewall for any signs of wire/pin/plug damage, negative.

Conclusion:

My main troubleshooting focus is primarily the ABS/BCM and FPCM/BCMs due location of the 120ohm resistors within the CAN bus network. Failure of either one of these BCMs could potentially cause a network failure due to the location of the 120ohm network resistors, causing a U0073 situation. I can't be 100% sure if a resistor is intermittently failing, or if some other internal BCM component is failing and/or negatively affecting the resistor performance? I'm limited to not having electrical drawings available. I'm leaning towards the ABS/BCM failing due to the fact there were no FPCM/BCM codes recorded in diagnostics, and the fact each occurrence occurred separately using different ECMs. Is it even possible the engine would continue to operate normally with an active ECM fail?

Does anyone have past FPCM/BCM and/or ABS/BCM failure information to share? I'm interested to learn if the ABS/BCM can fail intermittently over time prior to catastrophic permanent failure? Has anyone experienced similar DIC warnings and codes prior to an FMCM/BCM or ABS/BCM failure?

I hate throwing parts at a problem, this might actually be one of those diagnostic jobs fit for a dealer!

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Your problem may be due to the connection you're using to log. The OBD is, for whatever reason, not very tolerant of external loads sometimes. The OBD interface you've plugged in may be "loading" the bus down and interfering with communication between modules in the car.

I have a OBD bluetooth thingy I can't leave connected because if I do, the car will intermittently throw OBD communication codes. Without it plugged in, those errors never happen.

Those series resistors, I think, perform both a termination and current-limiting function. Intermittent failures of resistors is extremely rare. They can crack, and solder connections can crack, but some mechanical impetus needs to be applied to make that happen. Spontaneously just failing? Odds are extremely long. And if this was your problem, it wouldn't care if you had a OBD interface connected, it'd fail intermittently the same whether you logged or did not.

Try a different OBD adapter before you start ripping in to the car's electricals.
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Resistors don't intermittently fail. Either they work or they don't. Now solder connections can fail, but in todays electronics it is extremely rare. Older GM radios were notorious for cold solder joints that repair technicians actually labeled them as grippletts and the radios would do all kinds of random weird stuff.
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Your problem may be due to the connection you're using to log. The OBD is, for whatever reason, not very tolerant of external loads sometimes. The OBD interface you've plugged in may be "loading" the bus down and interfering with communication between modules in the car.

I have a OBD bluetooth thingy I can't leave connected because if I do, the car will intermittently throw OBD communication codes. Without it plugged in, those errors never happen.

Those series resistors, I think, perform both a termination and current-limiting function. Intermittent failures of resistors is extremely rare. They can crack, and solder connections can crack, but some mechanical impetus needs to be applied to make that happen. Spontaneously just failing? Odds are extremely long. And if this was your problem, it wouldn't care if you had a OBD interface connected, it'd fail intermittently the same whether you logged or did not.

Try a different OBD adapter before you start ripping in to the car's electricals.
Never gave a thought to the HPtuner causing interference intermittently. But both days I believe I was logging for hours and making a number of changes. Could be on to something, especially since the problem does in fact seem to resolve not long after the engine is shut down and HPtuner is no longer logging.
Resistors don't intermittently fail. Either they work or they don't. Now solder connections can fail, but in todays electronics it is extremely rare. Older GM radios were notorious for cold solder joints that repair technicians actually labeled them as grippletts and the radios would do all kinds of random weird stuff.
Good news to hear! Everything appears to be in good working order, I'm going to cutback logging and on the edits for a while and see how things go. I almost have the SD dialed-in anyway, so I'm in good shape at this point.
I'm in the DIY category, learning a lot along the way thanks to members of the forum.

@Lt1z @07GTS @random84 @PGA2B @RocketSled

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I had a similar thing happen to me twice with the 2 Bar OS. In my case it happened when I tried to run SD only to set up the VE table and logging. The car would suddenly loose all communication to the other modules and the trans would freak out as well. One time it happened after about 15 minutes and the other time after over an hour. I could only get the car back to running by flashing the tune again. I guess that triggers a reconnection between the modules. After switching back to the stock OS I never had that fault again, so I assumed it was a bug in the 2 Bar OS.
I had a similar thing happen to me twice with the 2 Bar OS. In my case it happened when I tried to run SD only to set up the VE table and logging. The car would suddenly loose all communication to the other modules and the trans would freak out as well. One time it happened after about 15 minutes and the other time after over an hour. I could only get the car back to running by flashing the tune again. I guess that triggers a reconnection between the modules. After switching back to the stock OS I never had that fault again, so I assumed it was a bug in the 2 Bar OS.
I primarily went with the 2 bar OS specifically because of VE. In my case, both incidents, I did not have to flash to get things back and running, everything just magically fixed itself five minutes. Could very well be a bug? I'm going to contact HP support and ask them about this, maybe there's a 1.1 version? I also never experienced this issue prior to the switch to the 2 bar OS. Thank for sharing.
Possible that the system does a reset or reconnect after a couple of minutes. But I was on the side of a freeway so I tried to get it running as quick as possible and from my previous tuning experience I knew that a reflash usually triggers a reconnection of all modules. Since I'm back to stock OS never had the problem again.
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I'm out again today, just gonna see if I get messages for the time being.
A "power cycle" will recover the lost communications if the condition is transient. Just like rebooting your PC if it starts to act funny.

I was driving my 97 Corvette one night (long ago) and when I drove over some railroad tracks, every light on the dash lit up and the car went in to limp-home mode. You could put the Corvette DIC in to diagnostic mode and get code readouts on the display in the car, which I did, and saw loss of communications with every module. You could clear the codes with the DIC, too, which I did. But the car stayed in limp-home mode until I shut it down and restarted, after which the problem was gone (and thankfully never happened again).
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A restart didn't do it for me. Not even opening the door to shut everything completely down. Removing the battery might have worked or waiting longer. But a flash only takes 45 seconds so that was my choice of action. I actually ran out of fuel with my motorcycle on that exact same location and I ended up paying around 600 bucks in fines because of that. So I really wanted to be gone as soon as possible
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Good to learn that this apparently is a "computer" thing that can be cleared. I've noticed that some of the codes become "permanent" be definition in the diagnostics and cannot be cleared right away, guess it has something to due with EPA? But after a few cycles the permanent codes clear too. I've been out driving a bit, so far so good. ;) @random84 previously compared the ECU to a thumb drive sharing similar characteristics. After all, the ECU hardware and software are already over ten year old technology. Curious if HPtuner updates for scanner/editor software will eventually lead/add to more anomalies?
Permanent code will only go away after the system sees the error as no longer current. Usually a couple of drive cycles will clear it.

From HP Tuners:
Permanent Codes Please Help

A Permanent DTC will be erased one of two ways:
 After three consecutive confirmed fault-free monitoring cycles. The MIL is extinguished and the
Permanent DTC is cleared at the start of the fourth fault-free monitoring cycle.
 After one confirmed fault-free monitoring cycle following a scan tool “clear DTC” request.
A driving cycle must include the following:
 The OBD monitor must run and determine that that fault is no longer present.
 Cumulative time since engine start (or propulsion system active for hybrid vehicles) is greater than 10
minutes.
 Cumulative vehicle operation above 40 km/h (25 MPH) occurs for greater than 5 minutes.
 Continuous operation at idle (i.e., accelerator pedal released by driver and vehicle speed less than 1
km/h or 1 MPH) for greater than 30 seconds.

When I did my headers I didn't turn off P0420 & P0430 because my mid pipes have cats, so I thought I would be ok. Unfortunately the cats flow too much and still trigger the codes. So they were permanent. I had to fix the issue and eventually they went away.
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Permanent code will only go away after the system sees the error as no longer current. Usually a couple of drive cycles will clear it.

From HP Tuners:
Permanent Codes Please Help

A Permanent DTC will be erased one of two ways:
 After three consecutive confirmed fault-free monitoring cycles. The MIL is extinguished and the
Permanent DTC is cleared at the start of the fourth fault-free monitoring cycle.
 After one confirmed fault-free monitoring cycle following a scan tool “clear DTC” request.
A driving cycle must include the following:
 The OBD monitor must run and determine that that fault is no longer present.
 Cumulative time since engine start (or propulsion system active for hybrid vehicles) is greater than 10
minutes.
 Cumulative vehicle operation above 40 km/h (25 MPH) occurs for greater than 5 minutes.
 Continuous operation at idle (i.e., accelerator pedal released by driver and vehicle speed less than 1
km/h or 1 MPH) for greater than 30 seconds.

When I did my headers I didn't turn off P0420 & P0430 because my mid pipes have cats, so I thought I would be ok. Unfortunately the cats flow too much and still trigger the codes. So they were permanent. I had to fix the issue and eventually they went away.
What cats? I've had a set of Kooks green high flow for a few years, might install them at some point...
They are Billy Boat's. Kooks Green shouldn't trip the P0420 & P0430 codes, but wouldn't hurt to turn them off in the tune to be safe.
They are Billy Boat's. Kooks Green shouldn't trip the P0420 & P0430 codes, but wouldn't hurt to turn them off in the tune to be safe.
Wanted to share, I also have BB headers and muffler. I originally had the entire BB exhaust kit, but the center X section tapered down to 2 1/2". BB informed me that they tapered it down due to excessive drone, customers were unhappy. So I had fabricated a 3" center section.
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That is the same exhaust I have. I wish I would have done V bands. I blew through the stock BB gaskets in about 300 miles...
That is the same exhaust I have. I wish I would have done V bands. I blew through the stock BB gaskets in about 300 miles...
BB mufflers have that signature deep baritone, I actually like the drone with the larger diameter pipes as well. The 1 3/4" headers allow just barley enough room for maintenance and harness clearances, would find it difficult with a larger diameter set of headers installed for sure. The V-bands were pricey, absolute must, so much nicer for maintenance. I also blew through the stock gaskets prior to the V-bands in no time.
I did the FDOM-0361 1 7/8" headers. Did you take the headers off to do the V band or with them in place?
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