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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, I didnt see a good KW install thread, so I shall make my own!

I bought these through Mont Motorsports after waiting 6 months for Renick to not deliver (nice guy, very smart and promptly refunded my purchase once I asked, but I cant recommend the company based on my drawn out experience for the V2), and I had these within 2 days.

Here are the installation instructions, as provided in multiple languages - but not in order. It was easier to google the electronic PDF, unlock it and reproduce it here because no one thought to keep the pages collated.









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Front coilover installation:

Step 1: disconnect the speed sensor (10mm) and lower shock bolts (13mm). Take care to not mangle the sensor cable or brake lines in subsequent steps.

Step 2: disconnect the upper A-arm to knuckle bolt. There is a 6mm hex relief in the bolt so it wont turn while you loosen the nut. I'd hit it with WD40 to remove excess road debris first.
NOTE: the whole lower A-arm and knuckle assembly will want to fall down and out once the bolt is released. It weighs around 80-100lbs all together, so be prepared to man-handle that down. I personally used a jack under the knuckle to carry most of the weight, and some wire tied to the upper A-arm to keep the rotor / knuckle from falling outward. Exercise caution here!

Step 3: using an impact gun, remove the 18mm bolts from the upper shock rod. There are two, do one at a time. The front shock assembly will fall slightly once the second nut is removed.
NOTE: with the lower control arm down, I did not need a spring compressor. You may wish to use one for safety and/or to prevent damage to the shock rod threads on removal.

Step 4: open up your KW V3 box and admire how all the pretty anodized aluminum got dinged up during shipping. Pull out the front shock assembly and purple spacer. Adjust the lower height collar so that it is 12" from the lower shock mount as noted in the instructions. This is your MINIMUM ride height.

Step 5: be perplexed on what the instructions mean: daz da Germans call the aluminum hat the "bearing," but none of the OEM components are reused beyond the aluminum top hat.

The diameter of the KW piston rod is actually the same as the OEM washer / spacer, and thus you do not need to carry anything over.

To be continued...


 

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Didnt someone make a video?

I'm installing these as we speak and the instructions are absolutely shit.

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And no texts...smh
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm gonna just do an install thread
 

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It was late.

Use a washer at the top of the shock tower or just the coilover and nut?

Instructions mention factory bearing but I assume that's German for the aluminum top hat?

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i would translate that as the stepped spacer that goes on the top of the oem shock to center the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
i would translate that as the stepped spacer that goes on the top of the oem shock to center the shaft.
ETA: the spacer is not needed. It actually limits total thread engagement slightly with the longer nylon locking nut, but it's also not critical.

The fender thickness at the shock tower mount is approximately 0.315", and total thread engagement on the KW shaft is ~0.925". So using the ~0.200" factory spacer means around 0.41" remaining thread for a nut that's 0.46" tall.

Granted, the nylon nut only has ~0.34" of metal thread engagement, the remainder is for the nylon locking band, but the short of it is the OEM black metal spacer is NOT required and not a good idea.




There's also black bushings in the box that I *ASSUME* go to the rear shocks, but are not actually shown or referenced anywhere in the instructions.

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Getting to the rears:

In wagons you have to remove the cargo cover pin and the rails on the floor with torx bits, then you can pop off the covers enough to get to the three 13mm shock mount bolts and protective cover (three 10mm bolts).

Pull the rear seats forward, lift up the front of the cargo floor to get the side panels back (they have snap connectors that pop off).

Remove the cargo cover pin on each side, with the two cargo floor rails.

Remove the cover bolts but leave one loose so it rotates out of the way.

Unhook the mag ride sensor pigtail.

Remove the three shock tower bolts.

Remove the lower shock mount bolt from the rear LCA.

Then install the coilover in the same manner.



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Discussion Starter #7
Anyone know where this bushing is supposed to go?

It isnt really a great fit for the rear spring perch, which is my best guess (as shown)


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Nice job Random! No camber plates ?

I have a KW adjustment tool with the cover if anyone wants it. PM me for interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so the bushings are bump stops for the front shocks.

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Thanks for this, I need to order a set due to MD not allowing me to pass state vehicle inspection due to leaky rear shocks. The car still feels plenty stiff though by my butt calibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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They sure aren't, but neither were those KW's (I bet).

If you are doing suspension, spherical bearings are a real plus.

I had them on my C5 Z06 and my 05 CTS-V
 

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@random84 did you have any issues with getting the camber, castor, alignment stuff to near stock? I suppose most of that has to do with how much you lowered the car with the coil overs
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@random84 did you have any issues with getting the camber, castor, alignment stuff to near stock? I suppose most of that has to do with how much you lowered the car with the coil overs
I'm even lower now than I was on lowering springs and mag ride. I'd guess 2 to 2.5" lower than stock? The alignment guy always has an issue getting caster and camber in the front (usually trade off camber) and of course the rear is limited when lowered.


I just looked under the car yesterday and tire wear is great.

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Are the rear springs different between the coupe and sedan? The KW springs for the rear that I have are a much smaller diameter.
 

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Hey Jesse,

How low are you? Can you share a pic? I'm sitting pretty low and my camber (-2.3 degrees) are killing my front tires. But conflicted to raise it since I love how it looks. Wondering what that sweet spot is in the lowest you can go and keeping camber in check.



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