Kong 2650 belt sizes ?

1373 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Lt1z, 3 mo ago

NVscout

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Well I finally pulled the trigger on a 2650 and ID1300’s ! My old setup had a 2.38/9.55 combo and I plan to keep the 9.55 lower so I bought a 3.5, 3.25, and 3.0 upper for the kong. The car does have an idler relocation with 100mm pulley as well , any help with belt sizes would be greatly appreciated !

on a side note here is my best ET on the old setup !!! Hoping to be comfortably in the 9’s soon

Receipt Rectangle Font Electric blue Transparency

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random84

· #2 · 3 mo ago

I think I got a PM from you and I forgot to reply. The easy answer is get your blower, install it, and use some string or an old belt to get an idea of belt wrap. Be sure to account for the belt tensioner. With the variety of idler options out there, I think you'll ultimately just have to measure and then cross reference against the belt size charts. Understand the belts will have tolerance anyway, so if you use a breaker bar to fully compress the tensioner, you'll get a "minimum" belt size. Leaving the tensioner fully extended would give you a "maximum" belt length. I'd take the smallest measurement and add 1/2" to it to account for variations in your measurements and belt manufacturing. Then realize there's a decent chance you measured wrong and will have to order a second belt anyway.

Right now I'm using a Gates 80700HD green belt (70.5" length) for my 9.55 lower / 3.0 upper pulley and relocated idlers. I believe one of my idlers is larger diameter but I can't recall the specifics.

Oh, and just go ahead and run the 3.0 pulley. <wink> <wink>

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NVscout

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

random84 said:
I think I got a PM from you and I forgot to reply. The easy answer is get your blower, install it, and use some string or an old belt to get an idea of belt wrap. Be sure to account for the belt tensioner. With the variety of idler options out there, I think you'll ultimately just have to measure and then cross reference against the belt size charts. Understand the belts will have tolerance anyway, so if you use a breaker bar to fully compress the tensioner, you'll get a "minimum" belt size. Leaving the tensioner fully extended would give you a "maximum" belt length. I'd take the smallest measurement and add 1/2" to it to account for variations in your measurements and belt manufacturing. Then realize there's a decent chance you measured wrong and will have to order a second belt anyway.

Right now I'm using a Gates 80700HD green belt (70.5" length) for my 9.55 lower / 3.0 upper pulley and relocated idlers. I believe one of my idlers is larger diameter but I can't recall the specifics.

Oh, and just go ahead and run the 3.0 pulley. <wink> <wink>

Fair enough, I just went down and bought belts in 1/2” increments. I’m not sure what pulley setup I can get away with pump gas and need them on hand to swap pulleys when the tuning begins. After finding the pump gas pulley I plan on swapping from the 9.2 lower and going back to the 9.55 lower with renegade ProE112 and dropping pulleys until I get to the 18-20 psi range.

For future reference this is what I have so far using the lingenfelter 100mm idler bracket.

3.0/9.2 = k080690

3.25/9.2 = K080694

3.5/9.2. = K080700 (tight) K080702 (middle of tensioner range)

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random84

· #4 · 3 mo ago

Without knowing your setup, I'll just say that I'm making 19psi peak with 400 cubic inches, AllPro heads and a 234/252 cam (.64x lift). Generally, that's a pretty decent setup for our cars, so you'll probably have a less efficient combo, and you could use a larger pulley ratio for similar boost levels and better heat management. In other words, keep the 9.2 and run the 3.0 upper; and I think you'll be pretty happy with that combo.

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NVscout

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

random84 said:
Without knowing your setup, I'll just say that I'm making 19psi peak with 400 cubic inches, AllPro heads and a 234/252 cam (.64x lift). Generally, that's a pretty decent setup for our cars, so you'll probably have a less efficient combo, and you could use a larger pulley ratio for similar boost levels and better heat management. In other words, keep the 9.2 and run the 3.0 upper; and I think you'll be pretty happy with that combo.

Nice ! I’m just running a B-15 with a 246/256 and .612 lift cam , so yeah a little less efficient for sure. Not too worried about heat with the 8 gallon trunk tank though

random84

· #6 · 3 mo ago

Nice cam - certainly a good idear with crate motor cylinder heads. You'll want a quality intercooler brick for 19psi. The OEM unit won't hold up long term.

NVscout

Discussion Starter · #7 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

random84 said:
Nice cam - certainly a good idear with crate motor cylinder heads. You'll want a quality intercooler brick for 19psi. The OEM unit won't hold up long term.

I was unaware there was a different option besides a welded zl1, besides the absurdly prices kong setup …….

rpol78

· #8 · 3 mo ago

NVscout said:
I was unaware there was a different option besides a welded zl1, besides the absurdly prices kong setup …….

C&R Racing - $1100 for the brick

www.pwrna.com

LSA Intercooler Brick 2008-19 CTS-V

Using the same high-efficiency core technology used across PWR’s range of high-performance coolers, our LSA Intercooler Brick 2008-15 CTS-V outperforms OEM

www.pwrna.com

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NVscout

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

rpol78 said:
C&R Racing - $1100 for the brick

LSA Intercooler Brick 2008-19 CTS-V

Using the same high-efficiency core technology used across PWR’s range of high-performance coolers, our LSA Intercooler Brick 2008-15 CTS-V outperforms OEM

www.pwrna.com

Wow , does it really do something a welded factory brick won’t ?

rpol78

· #10 · 3 mo ago

NVscout said:
Wow , does it really do something a welded factory brick won’t ?

Hopefully someone else can reply. I'm putting my engine together and trying to figure this one out too. I have a new ZL1 lid with brick but haven't reinforced the brick yet so I need to decide a direction. I really like the new Kong dual brick lid but $2800.... So for now I'm trying to decide whether to sell my brick and pop for the C&R or just get the new brick reinforced. I'm targeting somewhere around 15psi of boost on a 396 build. I'm starting with an 8.66" lower and a 3.25" upper.

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Lt1z

· #11 · 3 mo ago

All 2650 builds here get a C&R brick or a pair of them depending on lid. 20 PSi will crush a welded stock brick.

On the bright side the price is now lower then It used to be which is opposite of most parts these days.

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NVscout

Discussion Starter · #12 · 3 mo ago

Lt1z said:
All 2650 builds here get a C&R brick or a pair of them depending on lid. 20 PSi will crush a welded stock brick.

On the bright side the price is now lower then It used to be which is opposite of most parts these days.

Wow !! I’d love to see a picture of a collapsed welded brick !

Lt1z

· #13 · 3 mo ago

More to it then just trying to keep the end tank from collapsing. They will deform and leak. One of those things a lot don't want to spend money on but if you end up with a more expensive issue due to it then its a gamble. There is more then one person around here who have had re enforced brick failures. Beyond that I'm sure most shops who work on LSA based cars enough have seen it too as people push them further....

NVscout

Discussion Starter · #14 · 3 mo ago

Ahhh that makes a little more sense…. Your statement

Lt1z said:
20 PSi will crush a welded stock brick.

Is what I was really interested in🧐

Lt1z

· #15 · 3 mo ago

Yes 20 psi will cause issues with a stock GM brick someone welded up.

Mark Buck

· #16 · 3 mo ago

Matt, Just out of curiosity who makes a lid with 2 bricks? I assume it fits a stock LSA blower?

Lt1z

· #17 · 3 mo ago

Mark Buck said:
Matt, Just out of curiosity who makes a lid with 2 bricks? I assume it fits a stock LSA blower?

Synergy makes a lid and adapter plate which uses twin LS9 bricks. Does well on 2650 setups.

I believe the new Kong lid also does

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