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Looks nice. Basically a $1200 billet ZL1 lid with a $1000 AR Hobbs brick.

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Hot dang, if that ain't purdy, I don't know what is.

Wonder how well it works?
 
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really could have changes the design a little more to not copy a zl1 lid .

suprised no one has tried composite , seen many stock n/a ls manifolds hold up to boost and it would be much less of a heat sink . Probably be made on a 3d printer for a decent cost too ........
 

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Looks nice. Basically a $1200 billet ZL1 lid with a $1000 AR Hobbs brick.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
Shore is purty
 

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Kong lid is pretty damn nice too!
I think the Kong lid will work fine - in spite of a few limitations. But unfortunately although I was talking about the Kong lid for almost a year, no one told me it was overhyped until it was already sitting on my Wagon. I had suspicions of course, but no real world experience.

Now, Kong has priced himself out of the market IMHO so it is irrelevant going forward.


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“Dimensionally the same as a shaved factory LSA lid”

And it still has horrible flow to number 7&8 like the ZL1.


Is it 12an to the lid or 12an to the brick?


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I think the Kong lid will work fine - in spite of a few limitations. But unfortunately although I was talking about the Kong lid for almost a year, no one told me it was overhyped until it was already sitting on my Wagon. I had suspicions of course, but no real world experience.

Now, Kong has priced himself out of the market IMHO so it is irrelevant going forward.


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What are the limitations Jesse?

I have been waiting for you to get through the AN issue. .:mad:
and report back with some IAT info. . . .

Cheers
 

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“Dimensionally the same as a shaved factory LSA lid”

And it still has horrible flow to number 7&8 like the ZL1.


Is it 12an to the lid or 12an to the brick?


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This, along with helping to reduce overall IAT's
on long 'Pulls', is what I was hoping that the
Kong Lid would help improve.

Cheers
 

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It's making me second guess the Kong lid.

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No, I think you did the correct thing (JMHO).
But time will tell as you collect the required data. . .
 
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What are the limitations Jesse?

I have been waiting for you to get through the AN issue. .:mad:
and report back with some IAT info. . . .

Cheers
I have heard after the fact from knowledgeable persons that the brick is not efficient and the IAT sensor replacement is not ideal.

The latter can be tuned for (ie "high" reading IAT2), but word is the brick is not as efficient as others, such as the C&R option.

Combined with the cost premium, this makes it an ineffective choice.

Kong advertises the bricks durability, so if that holds up I will be happy, even if it's not the "best" option. I say this after crushing an OEM brick.

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I have heard after the fact from knowledgeable persons that the brick is not efficient and the IAT sensor replacement is not ideal.

The latter can be tuned for (ie "high" reading IAT2), but word is the brick is not as efficient as others, such as the C&R option.

Combined with the cost premium, this makes it an ineffective choice.

Kong advertises the bricks durability, so if that holds up I will be happy, even if it's not the "best" option. I say this after crushing an OEM brick.

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Interesting info. . .

If the brick is not efficient, then why did Kong desire
to move your conversation / questions away from
how much does the blower flow / how much more
HP does the blower make, To. . .How efficient the
blower (which includes the efficiency of the brick) is?

You did a lot of data logging with each of your blowers
and blower mods, so let's see what happens when you
get this one on the road. . .

Also, sorry to read about all of your fitting problems.

Sounds to me like certain so called manufacturers
decided to outsource their products to China, and
are in fact nothing more than distribution houses now.

This is what happened to our 'Chip' industry.

So now we have many industries, such as the auto
industry backed up regarding production.

The story that really gets to me is:
Why are so many of our medications made in China???

Cheers
 
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