[SeeTeaS-V]

2010 sedan. 131k miles.

Problems:
1. Clunking noise when steering left/right, even in park.
2. Extreme vibration under moderate braking above 60mph. (biggest problem)
3. Random front end noises.
4. Steering wheel play. 3-4 inches of movement with zero feedback from car.


New parts thrown at issue in hopes to resolve..

2 New front UCAs. (o;d bushings were not that bad)
2 new LCAs (just replaced by Previous Owner, probably not aligned)
4 new OEM AC Delco mag ride shocks.
2 new front sway bar end links
2 new rear sway bar mounting bushings

I have not taken it in for an alignment yet, because I'm pretty sure I have yet to find the real problem.

Do these Vs have common steering rack issues? I had a friend move the steering wheel, while I crawled under the car (safe), and the clunking noise seems to be easily repeatable just from moving the steering wheel back and forth. I found the PS res was low. Not even registering on the dipstick, so I topped it off and drove it. No change.

If I dont get good feedback here, I will buy new steering rack tie rod ends and replace those before getting an alignment.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Ctarb1]

Probably not your issue but have you checked to see if the center nuts on front shocks are torqued properly? There were a few threads with that problem. You also said the car has headers, have you checked the steering shaft area where it goes into the rack, when you install headers on these cars you have to remove that steering shaft. Maybe front sway bar bushings? Subframe bolts all good and tight? Just throwing random crap at you to look at. You probably have as you seem competent with a wrench. Hope you get her back on the road soon

 

[specialp]

I would get it aligned. Heavy braking with a bad alignment could cause shaking. The clunking and steering play could be a inner tie rod and would also cause shaking. If you get an alignment it is like $100 and they usually check those things out so worth it. If not, check for tie rod play

 

[robfromcds]

step one would have been checking inner and out tie rod ends

 

[kittyboy]

Check for cracks in the cradle at the lower control arms, all eight locations. This is a known issue.

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

Yes, I do have a crack on the subframe in the drivers front. The same area where the vibration comes from.
Can it be welded?

 

[RocketSled]

Whether the vibration caused the crack or the crack is causing the vibration, the crack is going to continue to propagate (get bigger) over time. I'd make getting it fixed a priority.

 

[kittyboy]

Happy you may have located your problem. Welding is an option, but remember welds like this do not necessarily add strength.

Any weld repair may actually end up stronger than original equipment, but it may still crack again in the future, same at the other locations, eight total. There are some members that have weld repaired these cracks without removing the cradle completely from the vehicle and others that have completely removed the cradle for weld repair. I have only found one steel fabricated replacement option advertised, but I am not going to promote that option. Please make sure to post what you plan to do, sometimes members come up with some brilliant new ideas! Member "BigDuderShooter" recently posted an EXCELLENT documented approach complete with images, make sure to check it out.

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

I'll be going at this with the "easiest fix first approach".

1. Get alignment, pretend crack doesn't exist.

2. Jack car up, remove wheel, weld crack. Get another alignment. Pray 7 other tabs don't crack. Don't drift car or hit curbs.

3. If problem persists, sell car, buy C6Z.

 

[Sudderth]

Check the steering column, under the dash. I had two bolts that fell out. Reinstalled using locktite blue and that eliminated lots of play...

 

[kittyboy]

Reconsider welding the crack before you get an alignment.

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

Check the steering column, under the dash. I had two bolts that fell out. Reinstalled using locktite blue and that eliminated lots of play...

I didnt pull the panel off, but yesterday I did check that the telescoping feature still functions and there is no play in this area. I also got under the car and had my wife jiggle the steering wheel while I listened for noise. There is a subtle clanking sound coming from where the steering shaft attaches to the rack and pinion. I removed the shaft bolts and popped the shaft off the knuckle. Then I grab the knuckle's nub and jiggled that. The noise seems to be coming from inside where the gearing takes place. There is no play between the wheels/tie rods/rack. I found a couple posts where some people opened up there rack and pinion and increased the tension where the gears meet. However I wasn't able to access that section of the rack from below. Its really tight down there. If anyone knows of a "How to" or has more info on this, I'd love to hear it.

I also just found out there is known popping or clunking sound that comes from the wheel to hub mating surface, and a TSB about cleaning the surface and applying a lube and increasing torque of lugs to 158. I'll do that today. It seems I have several gremlins to work out...

Reconsider welding the crack before you get an alignment.

Yea, I'm afraid of that 235ft lb torque might snap that tab right off. I'm looking for someone who can weld aluminum...

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

Today i tried the tSb fix for the clunking lug problem. Cleaned both mating surfaces and lubed. Torqued to 158. Same shit. Weds im having the crack welded on the car. Just putting it on the lift and welding the 3 inch crack. If it roasts the bushing, ill get CS’s. Alignment will follow.
Does it look like that bolt has been sliding in the slot? Its tight AF, i dont know how it could move…

 

[kittyboy]

No need to fry the bushing, just remove the arm prior to welding.

 

[RocketSled]

The noise seems to be coming from inside where the gearing takes place.

The steering rack has an adjustment called "preload". There's a spring that pushes the pinion gear down on to the rack. As the rack and pinion wear, that spring needs to be adjusted. There's a big hex head bolt you turn to crank down on the spring. Usually, just a 1/4 turn at a time since over-tightening it can accelerate additional wear. Check the manual for "preload adjustment".

Meanwhile, that crack is massive. I'd be really gentle driving it until you've attempted a repair.

 

[suicide_machines69]

Might be worth picking up some chassis ears to get a better idea of the noise source.

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

No need to fry the bushing, just remove the arm prior to welding.

I have to drive the car to the welder. He said he could so short beads to try to keep the heat down.

The steering rack has an adjustment called "preload". There's a spring that pushes the pinion gear down on to the rack. As the rack and pinion wear, that spring needs to be adjusted. There's a big hex head bolt you turn to crank down on the spring. Usually, just a 1/4 turn at a time since over-tightening it can accelerate additional wear. Check the manual for "preload adjustment".

Meanwhile, that crack is massive. I'd be really gentle driving it until you've attempted a repair.

Yes, I think I read a post you made about this. I tried to find the preload bolt. I assume its near where the two shafts meet, but cant seem to see it. Do you have a sketch you could link? Know what size the fitting is? Special tool needed to lock/unlock?

 

[RocketSled]

The adjustment should be someplace on the housing where the shaft meets the rack. I expect it's a be-atch to get at. I've never adjusted it on a CTS-V, but most if not all rack and pinion setups have a preload adjustment. I'm betting the service manual will say, but I don't have a service manual...

 

[SeeTeaS-V]

fix the crack, vibration and popping/crackling noise persists. Its very apparent on acceleration from a stop. Its like i have awd and my cv joint is fucked, except i dont….

 

[Jim]

Do you still have excessive play in the steering wheel?