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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have and '18 V3 and want to buy a battery jump starter. Cadillac accessories has both a 2,000 amp (NOCO Boost HD) and a 3,000 amp. model (NOCO Boost HD). What amp. rating is best for my car? I may buy a cheaper one through a retail store or on-line as long it has the right amp rating.
 

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Is this just for the tool box?
if you plan on long storage and potentially killing the battery maybe a charger maintainer would be better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is this just for the tool box?
if you plan on long storage and potentially killing the battery maybe a charger maintainer would be better?
Actually, for now, this car is my daily driver, so there is no storage issue. The reason I want to get a jumper is embarrassing. I parked the car in my garage and shut the engine off while still in Drive. All of the lights stayed on and I didn't notice it until 4 hours later and the battery was dead. Just in case something like that happens again, I want to get a suitable jump starter
 

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Just get one at Costco or Amazon or wherever. Don't pay the price through Cadillac.
 

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I have a jnc770 myself... I'll tell you this from experience, the little lithium jump starters aren't worth a damn on a completely dead battery, they need some voltage to make sure they aren't hooked up backwards.
 

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ive had to jump these cars before, use the post under the hood and you wont have to worry as much about the charger/jumper being ok for the type of battery you have
I feel its more direct too
Ive had a few of these mini ones and quite frankly they suck for anything thats dead-dead. I use a schumacher DSR series and its really good, has nice long cables ( some of those mini ones also have mini cables to go with it )
ive had that DSR for so long that when it seemed to be getting weak it was well worth the $100-$120 or whatever it was for me to replace the battery inside
That being said I have a few NOCO chargers and I dont think you can go wrong with any of them
 

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I have the Noco in each of my vehicles at less than a Benjamin and they have never let me down.
 

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its going to sound a little stupid but also make sure you know how to get into your car should the battery be dead, test the key now to make sure you have the correct key
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all of you're comments and suggestions. I forgot to mention that when I discovered the terminals under the hood, my friend brought over his jump starter. We hooked it up and sparks flew, things clicked, and lights flashed inside and out. Plus the car wouldn't start! When I had a road service truck come over, the same thing happened using the under hood terminals. Before the lights went out I managed to get the trunk open. He hooked up directly to the battery and the car started up just fine. I'm taking my car to dealer on Thursday to make sure everything still works.
 

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Thanks for all of you're comments and suggestions. I forgot to mention that when I discovered the terminals under the hood, my friend brought over his jump starter. We hooked it up and sparks flew, things clicked, and lights flashed inside and out. Plus the car wouldn't start! When I had a road service truck come over, the same thing happened using the under hood terminals. Before the lights went out I managed to get the trunk open. He hooked up directly to the battery and the car started up just fine. I'm taking my car to dealer on Thursday to make sure everything still works.
which terminal were you using?
the one under the red cap?
if it sparked thats not right ( not sure what ground terminal you used I wasnt even aware there was a ground terminal )

 

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Sumthin is wrong here. Like Rob just mentioned, did y'all use the red terminal correctly? I have no issues hooking up mine.
 

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If he connected the negative terminal first, then the positive, you'll definitely get sparks on the positive.....current flows pos to neg. Of course, the reverse happens on the negative connection when the positive side gets connected first.
 

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i would hope between him, his friend, and the road service they know the difference
 

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The reason for connecting the negative last to a ground on the engine was to keep the spark made by the last connection away from the battery. It stemmed from when most batteries were not sealed and had fumes around the battery terminals that could be ignited by the spark. With today maintenance free batteries this is not an issue. In the CTS-V the battery is in the trunk so it is completely irrelevant. Just make the ground connection to the top of the belt tensioner near the red positive terminal.

Steve D
 

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The jnc are nice I have one of those as well. The heavier the better. This guy has a v3 so I think the jump terminals are a bit different. Should be in the owners manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The jnc are nice I have one of those as well. The heavier the better. This guy has a v3 so I think the jump terminals are a bit different. Should be in the owners manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i missed that, but ill still assume its there under that red cap

 

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The NOCO 1000amp worked just fine the other day for me! Fleet farm had them on sale a while back for 100$. It was completely dead after I think the glove box was left open. The v3 has a negative terminal hook up just in-front of the fuse box between the positive hookup.
After it got started and on the drive home I got a message the side parking system needed service. After sitting overnight in the garage it must have reset itself somehow and the system now works!
 

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All you need is a 1.25 to 1.5 amp float charger from Schumacher or a Battery Tender Plus. These manufacterers build qualtiy chargers. They will charge, then go to a maintenance mode when fully charged. It will take awhile to charge a dead battery, but it works. It will save you a bunch of money as well. Then you can use it to maintain your batteries as needed.
 

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i have noco's in all my diesel trucks , 150s and 70s
 
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