Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
2X 9 second club
Joined
·
11,147 Posts
I never run more e than we tuned it for which is 70 percent.

Your setup will probably max out at 50 percent e even with a jms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
Evil do you have the correct part number for the JMS unit ? I believe there is two..

Might have to go with that in till Dave releases his setup
 

·
2X 9 second club
Joined
·
11,147 Posts
I would have to look for my instruction manual. It's the one Formatto sells.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
Any installation tips on the JMS? best place to mount the hobbs switch?
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
I'm not sure if you guys installed the JMS BAP but here's how I installed it per the below wiring diagram. Hopefully this helps someone else.

white wire coming from the BAP to the red/white wire near the FPCM connector, red wire from BAP directly to battery with 40amp fuse, black BAP wire to chasis ground.



With car off 11.8v at red/white wire near FPCM and 15.2v when Hobbs switch is triggered. This is with the JMS set at 15% voltage. I also set a 1.5 sec ramp in/out to avoid fuel pressure spike. The JMS is similar to the old KB BAP where you can adjust the max voltage manually.



Hobbs
 
  • Like
Reactions: MYV and Tdotwin

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
I'd love to be able to run something like this rather than have to replace the Fuel Pump, but I've heard that BoPs typicallly reduce the life expectancy of your fuel pump by a good amount.

Can anyone confirm or deny (after a year or two of use)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
I'd love to be able to run something like this rather than have to replace the Fuel Pump, but I've heard that BoPs typicallly reduce the life expectancy of your fuel pump by a good amount.

Can anyone confirm or deny (after a year or two of use)?
A little over year now and 7000k miles running my BAP. No issues.

I'm dropping in the AEM pumps soon though for a little more umph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Did you Scotchlok the white wire to the red/white ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Was hoping someone could clarify the install of the JMS Boost a pump a little more. I'm just tapping the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire of the FPCM harness correct? Not cutting the factory harness at all, just merely adding the JMS into it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Barryg

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
Was hoping someone could clarify the install of the JMS Boost a pump a little more. I'm just tapping the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire of the FPCM harness correct? Not cutting the factory harness at all, just merely adding the JMS into it?
Correct
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Oddly enough I called JMS yesterday. They said the schematic was wrong. To cut the red/white wire and wire in the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire heading into the FPCM and to leave the other side disconnected
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
Oddly enough I called JMS yesterday. They said the schematic was wrong. To cut the red/white wire and wire in the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire heading into the FPCM and to leave the other side disconnected
Well shit. My JMS works so now I'll have verify how I have it wired
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
Well shit. My JMS works so now I'll have verify how I have it wired
Barryg, did you figure out how you wired the white wire off the BAP to the red/white out of the fcpm? I used this connector to tap into the red/white wire. I just wired it up a few days ago, but have yet to complete BAP activation since I was gone on vacation
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Barryg, did you figure out how you wired the white wire off the BAP to the red/white out of the fcpm? I used this connector to tap into the red/white wire. I just wired it up a few days ago, but have yet to complete BAP activation since I was gone on vacation
Sorry for bringing this back up but what's the verdict?

Are we cutting the R/W completely? According to the instructions, White BAP wire connects to wire coming from fpcm plug and the Red BAP wire connects to the R/W that leads to the harness "power supply".

Is this the correct way to do it? Or are you guys just tapping the white wire in and running the red wire directly to the battery?


Secondly I received a "GM" small plug adapter which I assume to use the .05v thin red wire instead of the Hobbs switch but I am unsure of where the plug even plugs into... Can anyone clarify this as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
806 Posts
Sorry for bringing this back up but what's the verdict?

Are we cutting the R/W completely? According to the instructions, White BAP wire connects to wire coming from fpcm plug and the Red BAP wire connects to the R/W that leads to the harness "power supply".

Is this the correct way to do it? Or are you guys just tapping the white wire in and running the red wire directly to the battery?


Secondly I received a "GM" small plug adapter which I assume to use the .05v thin red wire instead of the Hobbs switch but I am unsure of where the plug even plugs into... Can anyone clarify this as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As far as wiring remove the fpcm fuse cut the red and wight wire tape off the end going to fuse box and hook up the end going to the fpcm to the output wire of the bap. Hook up the red wire direct to the battery with ring terminal . The factory fuse box can not take the 40 amps the bap requires. You can run 18volts to fpcm if you get your fpcm unlocked and tuned with no worries most pumps are designed to run at 18volts all day long.
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top