It should be the PM-2000Evil do you have the correct part number for the JMS unit ? I believe there is two..
Might have to go with that in till Dave releases his setup
Thanks,It seems to be that oneIt should be the PM-2000
A little over year now and 7000k miles running my BAP. No issues.I'd love to be able to run something like this rather than have to replace the Fuel Pump, but I've heard that BoPs typicallly reduce the life expectancy of your fuel pump by a good amount.
Can anyone confirm or deny (after a year or two of use)?
CorrectWas hoping someone could clarify the install of the JMS Boost a pump a little more. I'm just tapping the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire of the FPCM harness correct? Not cutting the factory harness at all, just merely adding the JMS into it?
Well shit. My JMS works so now I'll have verify how I have it wiredOddly enough I called JMS yesterday. They said the schematic was wrong. To cut the red/white wire and wire in the white wire from the JMS into the red/white wire heading into the FPCM and to leave the other side disconnected
Barryg, did you figure out how you wired the white wire off the BAP to the red/white out of the fcpm? I used this connector to tap into the red/white wire. I just wired it up a few days ago, but have yet to complete BAP activation since I was gone on vacationWell shit. My JMS works so now I'll have verify how I have it wired
Sorry for bringing this back up but what's the verdict?Barryg, did you figure out how you wired the white wire off the BAP to the red/white out of the fcpm? I used this connector to tap into the red/white wire. I just wired it up a few days ago, but have yet to complete BAP activation since I was gone on vacation
As far as wiring remove the fpcm fuse cut the red and wight wire tape off the end going to fuse box and hook up the end going to the fpcm to the output wire of the bap. Hook up the red wire direct to the battery with ring terminal . The factory fuse box can not take the 40 amps the bap requires. You can run 18volts to fpcm if you get your fpcm unlocked and tuned with no worries most pumps are designed to run at 18volts all day long.Sorry for bringing this back up but what's the verdict?
Are we cutting the R/W completely? According to the instructions, White BAP wire connects to wire coming from fpcm plug and the Red BAP wire connects to the R/W that leads to the harness "power supply".
Is this the correct way to do it? Or are you guys just tapping the white wire in and running the red wire directly to the battery?
Secondly I received a "GM" small plug adapter which I assume to use the .05v thin red wire instead of the Hobbs switch but I am unsure of where the plug even plugs into... Can anyone clarify this as well?
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