If you ever plan on possibly doing a pulley or possible mods down the road, I’d address cooling mods and then aux pump. Heat kills power, so if you’re gonna beat on it, look at something like the track attack or other reputable heat exchangers. Then go from there
Is aux pump necessary ?
I just bought a 2011 V coupe and have the DSX flex fuel kit coming. I know this has probably been talked about on here a lot, but is the aux pump necessary? I don’t plan on doing any other mods besides running the flex fuel kit and already installed intake. Also, FIC 850 or FIC 1000 injectors which would be good for me ? I live in LA so I’m assuming that’ll affect it as well.
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As much as I want to heavily mod, I want to keep it mostly stock besides the flex fuel. so only injectors, flex fuel sensor, and heat exchanger will be fine ? Also what do you think about fic 850 or fic 1000. I’m coming from a modded hellcat that was kinda too much to daily drive.
Do you intend to pass emissions test with larger injectors?
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I always try and plan my mods so that I’m nowhere near the knifes edge and so I also don’t have to buy twice in case I ever want to push it more. If you plan on running E a lot I’d go with 1000cc to keep your injector duty cycle low. I’m a big fan of ID injectors as it’s my personal preference. As long as fic can provide accurate injector data, a reputable tuner can make it run like stock.
Can’t speak to emissions but @Karch brings up a good point there and he would know about Cali laws etc.
@Lt1z is the go to guy for parts, tuning etc. he’s a wealth of knowledge and good dealer. Trust what he says
Can’t speak to emissions but @Karch brings up a good point there and he would know about Cali laws etc.
@Lt1z is the go to guy for parts, tuning etc. he’s a wealth of knowledge and good dealer. Trust what he says
Didn’t think of that to be honest, but I know a few guys out here that have gotten around the testingDo you intend to pass emissions test with larger injectors?
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Sounds good. Thank you sirI always try and plan my mods so that I’m nowhere near the knifes edge and so I also don’t have to buy twice in case I ever want to push it more. If you plan on running E a lot I’d go with 1000cc to keep your injector duty cycle low. I’m a big fan of ID injectors as it’s my personal preference. As long as fic can provide accurate injector data, a reputable tuner can make it run like stock.
Can’t speak to emissions but @Karch brings up a good point there and he would know about Cali laws etc.
@Lt1z is the go to guy for parts, tuning etc. he’s a wealth of knowledge and good dealer. Trust what he says
Any mod that requires a tune will fail the CA obd2 smog test. That leaves you with just an intake, catch can, heat exchanger, and maybe a ported tb.
Intake and catch can will not pass a visual though and will have to be swapped out for the test. No way around the obd2 test as far as I know.
Intake and catch can will not pass a visual though and will have to be swapped out for the test. No way around the obd2 test as far as I know.
I've always been curious about this, how does everyone pass emissions tests? Will the basic Stage 1 mod package (CAI, pulley, injectors, tune) cause test failure? I'm in UT, not sure of the difference in test parameters compared to CA.
In Ca, they plug into the OBD-II port and look at the signatures of the software. If you have changed even one thing in the tune, that signature will be different. If the signature in the ECU doesn't match the Manufacturer specified signatures for your year/model, it's an instant fail without even opening the hoodI've always been curious about this, how does everyone pass emissions tests? Will the basic Stage 1 mod package (CAI, pulley, injectors, tune) cause test failure? I'm in UT, not sure of the difference in test parameters compared to CA.
Thank you for the reply. So, how does everyone get around this?In Ca, they plug into the OBD-II port and look at the signatures of the software. If you have changed even one thing in the tune, that signature will be different. If the signature in the ECU doesn't match the Manufacturer specified signatures for your year/model, it's an instant fail without even opening the hood
Don’t ask, don’t tell.Thank you for the reply. So, how does everyone get around this?
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