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Intercooler Fluid Disappears

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Hey Caddy Fam, so I am a new owner of a 2012 CTS V sedan . 40k miles on it and auto. I have been noticing my intercooler fluid is disappearing slowly but surely.

Ordered a reinforced brick from Dedicated Motorsports and ordered new lid and IC gaskets to blower and new IC fluid reservoir. My question is this, has anyone had this issue? From what I’ve read here a lot of people are saying it’s likely an IC brick leak. I’m assuming my IC is leaking. My car is bone stock . Engine coolant is perfect level and never moves. See photos showing the levels going down after 1 short drive and after sitting for 3 days. Also are our IC pumps prone to leaking? The pump is circulating as I checked and saw movement.

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You more then likely have a very small pinhole in the brick itself. If your not seeing anything wet up top or evidence of coolant under car that’s where I’d place my bet
Yes,

It is he brick... Mine did it too. This one is reinforced.



This one is just stock.


An easy change only takes like four hours. Get a can of brake cleaner to clean the inside of the supercharger of excess oil while it is apart.
This is exactly what happened to me with a brick leak. An easy way to find out is to just take the brick out (10 min job) and pump it with like 10psi from a mittyvac and put it in a bucket. If you see bubbles there is your problem. The area in the plenum is under vacuum at all times the engine is running besides when it is under boost. So even a tiny leak will be amplified by the fact that it is in a vacuum environment as well. Make sure to put some blue loctite on the 4 bolts holding the brick in. If one of those fell out into your engine you will have a big problem.
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When the brick leaks after the car sits overnight for a while , can’t it cause a stumble when starting or am I not remembering correctly?
When the brick leaks after the car sits overnight for a while , can’t it cause a stumble when starting or am I not remembering correctly?
It COULD cause catastrophic engine damage or maybe a misfire or no issues at all, depending on how severe the leak.
MY
opinion: if have a leaking brick (again, just my opinion) you should disable the IC pump and drain the IC system so that you know it can't get water into the engine and drive it only lightly (stay out of boost) or even better, don't drive it at all until fixed.
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It COULD cause catastrophic engine damage or maybe a misfire or no issues at all, depending on how severe the leak.
MY
opinion: if have a leaking brick (again, just my opinion) you should disable the IC pump and drain the IC system so that you know it can't get water into the engine and drive it only lightly (stay out of boost) or even better, don't drive it at all until fixed.
Good thoughts right here, for the safe side. Prob a little bit of water will be, to limp around, heat is an enemy too, maybe a leak could choke the start a bit if it accumulated while sitting, then clear LS throat after a few extra cranks. Welcome aboard, from my experience my res stays right at the little fill line after cooldown.


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Of course, if the IC is leaking, you'll smell it at the tail pipe. Let the car sit overnight, then have someone crank it over for you why you inhale (deeply, through your nose) from the exhaust. If there's coolant in the motor, you'll smell it in the exhaust. I agree it's likely a brick (though I have yet to experience the problem, I've read a few accounts of people who did, over the years). But there are other places for the intercooler fluid to leak from besides the brick. There's a pump and there's a reservoir and there are hoses with clamps. If it was me, I'd want to rule those things out before taking the top of the motor apart.
Funny the OP is a one post wonder.

OP- Does the fluid level change when you open the cap?
Funny the OP is a one post wonder.
Typical. Probably hasn't even returned to view the replies.
Makes you feel like you've wasted your time; but to be optimistic, we can just assume that someone else, some day, will see the thread through a search... and THEY'll be helped!
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^^^ This is like a lot of interesting posts on here and HPT, when people never come back, and 2 years later shit gets bumped, lol
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^^^ This is like a lot of interesting posts on here and HPT, when people never come back, and 2 years later shit gets bumped, lol
And the bump is in the form of a direct question posed to the OP who hasn't been around for 6 years....
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^^^ This is like a lot of interesting posts on here and HPT, when people never come back, and 2 years later shit gets bumped, lol
And the bump is in the form of a direct question posed to the OP who hasn't been around for 6 years....

:ROFLMAO: Both True!!!
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Funny the OP is a one post wonder.

OP- Does the fluid level change when you open the cap?
Interestingly enough, mine did this every third or fourth time that I would check it after installing the Z lid, but I assumed it was still trapped air in the lines. I don't see any obvious stains or leaking anymore, but do crack either the cap or the bleeder off of the WX HX and the level does drop almost an inch sometimes. Do you think I might have a pinhole leak?
Doubtful. Are you having to put coolant in it? Mine after I first shut it off it is like his first pic and after it sits a while it goes down by the lower line. Then if I crack it open a bit it will go back up.

If you are worried about it you can pull off the lid and pressure check the brick.
That's what I figured but will wait another couple of weeks when it's off the road. I went and cracked open the cap just now while the level was an inch above the T, and the fluid went all the way up to the overflow tube....it hasn't done that before. I would think that it's finally fully burped and by relieving the system pressure, the level went up.

Regardless, I want to change out the lid manifold to the billet style and make the hoses a bit more aesthetically pleasing, so I'll pressure test the brick while it's off.
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I'll post these... for the future!
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That's what I figured but will wait another couple of weeks when it's off the road. I went and cracked open the cap just now while the level was an inch above the T, and the fluid went all the way up to the overflow tube....it hasn't done that before. I would think that it's finally fully burped and by relieving the system pressure, the level went up.

Regardless, I want to change out the lid manifold to the billet style and make the hoses a bit more aesthetically pleasing, so I'll pressure test the brick while it's off.
Yep! You're good. You may have had some bubble in there. Mine keep releasing air for about a month after I thought I had gotten all the air out. Granted it was a very small amount but my OCD said it all had to be out!
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