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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
How high are the IATs? And this might be a stupid question but have you opened the ice tank yet?
Today was low 70s and IAT1 was around 80 on a very short drive but IAT2 instantly climbed to 120-174. I havent personally opened the tank up yet but the previous owner opened it up for me to show me the concept.
 

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Make sure your pumping and make sure you have something to pump. If you were just cruising and pulled on it with those temps then you have a definite hx problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
It doesn't even take a pull for temps to climb. On the drive to work this morning with ambient temps likely in the low 60s IAT2s were reading 220-250. IAT stays 70-90s. I've searched about this and the one thread that pops up with the same issue it ended up being ba shop not replacing the supercharger gasket. Sense sensors are cheap, I'm tempted to buy one to see if that resolves it as well.

Edit- Just drove home from work which is about a 35 minute drive. IAT1s ranged from 75-85 cruising above 45mph but would climb to 115 in slower traffic. IAT2s climbed almost immediately leaving the parking lot to the 200s topping in the 250s and never went below 190. I'm guessing I've got to find a good video on how to bleed air.
 

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Leaving the parking lot they were at 200? There's no way. The coolant isn't even that hot yet so where would the heat be coming from. So with that logic you could drive 100ft and the blower would be so hot it'd burn your hand?
 

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yeah that does not compute. how are you gathering your data? if your ecu thinks its 200 its surely knocking the shit out of your timing. I saw your other thread and I dont think theres an air bubble big enough to make 200*. hx pump is under the splash shield dead center of you car ( think balancer area) stock. I would assume the vmax is in the same spot. theres a relay that you can pull and cycle to help purge the system. I also believe with a tank you can visually see the coolant circulating which can be tough with the t neck filler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
yeah that does not compute. how are you gathering your data? if your ecu thinks its 200 its surely knocking the shit out of your timing. I saw your other thread and I dont think theres an air bubble big enough to make 200*. hx pump is under the splash shield dead center of you car ( think balancer area) stock. I would assume the vmax is in the same spot. theres a relay that you can pull and cycle to help purge the system. I also believe with a tank you can visually see the coolant circulating which can be tough with the t neck filler.
Just using the Aeroforce gauge. I'm guessing it could just be absolutely wrong or a fault connection. I really need a local guru familiar with the car to teach me the basics. I've got a two month wait before I can get the car tuned since I want to go with a larger more conservative pulley.
 

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Aeroforce gauge is obd port so its no lying. your not accidently reading coolant temp instead of iat2 right? what two connectors interchange underhood again?
 

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Sounds like you need to use a different interface to read it just for kicks. HPTuner and scanner/or pretty much ANY cheap bluetooth OBD reader that you can monitor with a phone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
yeah that does not compute. how are you gathering your data? if your ecu thinks its 200 its surely knocking the shit out of your timing. I saw your other thread and I dont think theres an air bubble big enough to make 200*. hx pump is under the splash shield dead center of you car ( think balancer area) stock. I would assume the vmax is in the same spot. theres a relay that you can pull and cycle to help purge the system. I also believe with a tank you can visually see the coolant circulating which can be tough with the t neck filler.
Thanks, thats where it was. I also just turned the key and could here the pump engage as well. Tomorrow I will buy a bag of ice and pour it into the ice box just to verify. And I'm sure I'm reading IAT1 and IAT2 since thats the only thing listed on the header when I'm cycling through what the gauge can display. I haven't seen an option for coolant cycling through at all- just IAT, IAT2, barometric pressure, boost level, and alcohol content.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
So I think I just found my problem. I filled the BMR reservoir with some ice and distilled water and heard my pump engaged- and watched as the Vadder heat exchangers started leaking water like crazy. Just absolutely wonderful. Within a minute the reservoir was empty again- and the ball cock on the drain line was closed. So how the hell do you even begin to stop a leak in a heat exchanger? I dont have a good way to get under the car so it was hard to see but the leaks definitely seem to be coming from the radiators themselves, not a line. Guess I just got screwed.
 

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So I think I just found my problem. I filled the BMR reservoir with some ice and distilled water and heard my pump engaged- and watched as the Vadder heat exchangers started leaking water like crazy. Just absolutely wonderful. Within a minute the reservoir was empty again- and the ball cock on the drain line was closed. So how the hell do you even begin to stop a leak in a heat exchanger? I dont have a good way to get under the car so it was hard to see but the leaks definitely seem to be coming from the radiators themselves, not a line. Guess I just got screwed.
Congrats on the car. Here are my recos. Change all your major fluids, oil, coolant, diff, trans. Keep your diff on a 10K mile change cycle. Get a proper trusted tune or at least KNOW where yours is.
Enjoy.



Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

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So I think I just found my problem. I filled the BMR reservoir with some ice and distilled water and heard my pump engaged- and watched as the Vadder heat exchangers started leaking water like crazy. Just absolutely wonderful. Within a minute the reservoir was empty again- and the ball cock on the drain line was closed. So how the hell do you even begin to stop a leak in a heat exchanger? I dont have a good way to get under the car so it was hard to see but the leaks definitely seem to be coming from the radiators themselves, not a line. Guess I just got screwed.
Radiator shop may be able to fix them but it depends on what the issue really is. Pull the front bumper cover and see what you find. It may just be a hose or coupling. I think I read you have two in parallel. If one is good, bypass the bad one for now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Radiator shop may be able to fix them but it depends on what the issue really is. Pull the front bumper cover and see what you find. It may just be a hose or coupling. I think I read you have two in parallel. If one is good, bypass the bad one for now.
Is the car drivable with this going on provided I stay out of boost? It still seems to run great, I just am worried about detonation evenbthough Im running E85.
 
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