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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That is a lot of pulley. I'm sure he did have belt slip.

Yes, it's possible. Not likely on pump gas though. If on E85, then for sure possible.

Mine is a 2011 coupe with about that many miles. With E85, 2.38 upper (~14# boost), no cats, Dsteck tune, air raid, etc it made 640rwhp. A lot more pulley(boost), heads, cam, etc would take it to mid 700s with a good tune.
It is E85. They also mentioned that with a Griptech, it eliminated the slip. Would there be any issue with expecting this car to hold up if I'm not beating on it all the time? It wouldn't be a daily but I would like to drive it a good bit. I'm even considering 'less' pulley since I want to keep the car awhile without any major issues.
 

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That's the million dollar question isn't it 馃榿

With that pulley ratio you just have to keep an eye (ear?) out for the supercharger bearings. It's basically a maintenance item with those blower speeds. Of course just driving it "normally" won't hurt anything. It's RPM that kills the bearings.

My #1 advice after going through a similar situation is to make double damn sure it's tuned right. Spend that money with a good tuner and make sure. Really sure. Then make sure you are monitoring all the things: IAT2, knock, oil pressure/temp, etc. Finally, if it's an auto, treat it right and don't do full power downshifts from 5/6 to 3rd.

After all that, it might still break. But if the tune is good and you respect it, it's likely to do fine.

I'll add though: if you can't afford to fix it when it breaks, that is, buying the car takes all your money, then you may reconsider. Everything breaks eventually. Everything. And you don't always have a cool story when it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks man, you have been immensely helpful. Im driving to go look at the car now and I'll keep everything you said in mind. And if I like the car I will definitely have it 'retuned' to something more conservative. As far as the bearings, is there a given expected life at higher power levels and as far as replacement is it a completely rebuild the supercharger type deal?
 

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It's hard to say a definitive time the bearings will have issues. They'll make noise at some point. You can also pull and check them periodically. Or just run it and when it makes noise send it to one of the many vendors to have it gone through. It's not too terribly expensive. Just driving it around normal isn't what kills them it's when you get the RPMs up regularly, particularly for any extended time. However, lots of people have spun these to the moon for a long time so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Swap the upper to something larger if it worries you and it theoretically would last longer...but longer than what is hard to say.
 

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I thought I would be money ahead to buy one that had already had most of "the" mods done. I gambled and lost on that one. Put about 200 miles on it and got low oil pressure warning on the dash. Now it's sitting waiting for me to replace the engine with a spun bearing. Was it on it's way out when I bought it? I'm not sure. Was it READY to go? Not sure. It's done NOW though. I'd be happier now with 556 RUNNING stock horses than 703 dead horses, that's for sure. 馃槃馃槃
 

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same as loweredd. I bought a gn that was preset to kill. then I broke the crank.
 

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Not always. I鈥檓 in NC, where is it at if you don鈥檛 mind me asking?

It took me awhile to find the one I wanted. I purchased it 2 yrs ago, it鈥檚 a coupe phantom grey, 2014 with 18,000 miles.
Also, being in the Buick Grand National world...
Just cause it鈥檚 already modded, don鈥檛 mean they knew what the hell they were doing.
If your gonna be driving that much, I would go with a stock car & get some of the simpler mods like exhaust, air, pulleys injectors. Your gonna be all over 600hp & know it was done right.



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There seems to be a theme :) I had an '87 GN. Lots of corollarys to the V world. On the edge tunes can be messy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So here are the full parts list of the car-
Engine-
BTR Stage 3 PDS Cam
Airraid 4.5 inch intake
Frankenstein heads
Manley pushrods
CHE trunion upgrade
High volume oil pump
Might mouse catch can
Varimax pump
Milled ZL1 lid with reinforced brick
Griptech 2.38 upper whole assembly
ATI/DSX lower 9.45and idler relocation bracket
DSX auxillary pump
DSX flex fuel sensor tuned on E85
1050LD injectors
Vadder heat exchanger
2 gallon under the hood BMR tank

I drove the car today and it is obnoxiously loud with the cutouts open but tolerable with them shut. The car has very apparent cam lope. I didn't really see any red flags and the seller seemed forthcoming. The supercharger whine is readily apparent. Interior and exterior were in very good condition. Instead of the clock, there is an Aeroforce gauge there. The seller was walking me through what all it will display like alcohol content and what not. Are there any red flags I could observe from the gauge if I drive the car again or are there any issues with the aforementioned parts list that you guys can see?

Overall going with my gut, the seller didnt seem to be hiding anything at all and I like the car. But I also may still be in the stage of talking myself into it. The relatively low miles (51k) is some of the main appeal. Along with the upgraded cooling systems since from what little I know I've gathered that heat is the enemy.
 

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So here are the full parts list of the car-
Engine-
BTR Stage 3 PDS Cam
Airraid 4.5 inch intake
Frankenstein heads
Manley pushrods
CHE trunion upgrade
High volume oil pump
Might mouse catch can
Varimax pump
Milled ZL1 lid with reinforced brick
Griptech 2.38 upper whole assembly
ATI/DSX lower 9.45and idler relocation bracket
DSX auxillary pump
DSX flex fuel sensor tuned on E85
1050LD injectors
Vadder heat exchanger
2 gallon under the hood BMR tank

I drove the car today and it is obnoxiously loud with the cutouts open but tolerable with them shut. The car has very apparent cam lope. I didn't really see any red flags and the seller seemed forthcoming. The supercharger whine is readily apparent. Interior and exterior were in very good condition. Instead of the clock, there is an Aeroforce gauge there. The seller was walking me through what all it will display like alcohol content and what not. Are there any red flags I could observe from the gauge if I drive the car again or are there any issues with the aforementioned parts list that you guys can see?

Overall going with my gut, the seller didnt seem to be hiding anything at all and I like the car. But I also may still be in the stage of talking myself into it. The relatively low miles (51k) is some of the main appeal. Along with the upgraded cooling systems since from what little I know I've gathered that heat is the enemy.
It only has a few thousand more miles than mine. I'd feel confident in selling, if I wanted to sell, to someone that what I've done.

Is it the stock blower?
 

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Does it still have the stock manifold and cats? Does the car come with HP Tuners or some means of data logging? If so, you can grab a screen shot and post it here for others to evaluate the tune to see if there is anything funny going on. It's not usually problems with hard parts (except in Blades case where the shop didn't install the correct pushrods), it's the tuning that can quickly destroy a motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It only has a few thousand more miles than mine. I'd feel confident in selling, if I wanted to sell, to someone that what I've done.

Is it the stock blower?
Yep, stock not ported blower but power level claimed is north of 760rwhp. I would be going to a more conservative tune/pulleys if I get the car.
 

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So how does it usually work when youre driving 100-200 miles to look at a car and want to have the car mechanically inspected? How much does your average mechanic charge to inspect a car prior to purchase? never been in this position before and dont know how this should work between me paying for a mechanic if Im intertested in the car- how to find one in the local area- and how to avoid just wasting money doing this with each car I'm interested in.
There are sometimes local inspectors - I used a guy in Houston who was good and he has branches throughout Texas. The car I bought I got the local Chevy dealer to look at it and they charged me $200.
 

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There are sometimes local inspectors - I used a guy in Houston who was good and he has branches throughout Texas. The car I bought I got the local Chevy dealer to look at it and they charged me $200.
Oh and - they replaced the supercharger and GM paid for it, which was nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Do these cars shift hard after a transmission tune? The car didn't jerk on shifts but it definitely seemed firm going from one gear under power. I also noticed the cooling fans running after we brought car back from a short drive as well onna relatively cool day but the car does have extensive cooling mods/160 thermostat. I will do the final test drive Sunday. If all goes well, she's mine.
 

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Do these cars shift hard after a transmission tune? The car didn't jerk on shifts but it definitely seemed firm going from one gear under power. I also noticed the cooling fans running after we brought car back from a short drive as well onna relatively cool day but the car does have extensive cooling mods/160 thermostat. I will do the final test drive Sunday. If all goes well, she's mine.
Yes the trans will have firm shifts after a trans tune and the fans can be tuned to come on after the car has turned off to cool the hx coolant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So I made the 200 plus mile drive yet again with a check to test drive the car again. I got the car on the interstate and stuck my foot into it a little bit but nothing crazy and decide I want the car. I offer to drive the vehicle to the sellers credit union so I get to drive the car in a more city environment. All is well. I do hear the auxilary pump which is apparently mounted next to the passenger footwell kick on anytime the car is going uphill significantly or at 80 but this is something the seller warned me about that freaked him out when he first got the car. We get to the CU and his CU wants to put a hold on the check because they cant contact my CU which isnt open at all on the weekend. There is no resolution where neither of us is taking way too much risk so ultimately Im left playing grab ass until Monday and making another trip up there during business hours so his bank can call mine and verify the check is real. 馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が馃が
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Got the car, love it so far. My question is I know that I want to go with a more conservative pulley combination with this car. I know there are pulley ratio charts but I'm not sure how to translate that into a setup that will prolong the life of the blower. From trying to find this info on my own I've also gathered that it is cheaper to change out the top pulley as opposed to the bottom. Can someone steer me in the right direction?
 
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