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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, new member here from Ohio been lurking for a minute reading older posts. I’m sorry if this isn’t the right place to ask my question. To get to the point I’ve been interested in buying a v2 cts v for a longg time and i think it might be the right time.. I’ve been looking at a couple Vs with high(ish) mileage 89k and a 93k i believe. Now i don’t wanna make this long asf, what do i look out for when buying a V is my first question. I’ve seen a couple that are stock and also a couple that are not stock at all lol.. my brain is telling me to get a stock one especially with that mileage, but my heart is also telling me to get a modded one bc i will prob end up modding it anyway that way i could save some $$.. also if i end up getting a V it will be my only car and daily. I know gas is expensive asf especially nowadays, but my commute to work is about 3-4 miles so i don’t think it should be a problem and im not getting this car for gas mileage to begin with.. give me any advice you got. I have 0 experience with ls motors btw I’ve always been a hemi guy but it’s time for a change. I’ll try to link a few of the cars im interested in.
Thanks
http://instagr.am/p/CTDg7q9lTJj/
http://instagr.am/p/CQUgBOMHIeX/
http://instagr.am/p/CUYw5Q7t3WW/
 

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Hello guys, new member here from Ohio been lurking for a minute reading older posts. I’m sorry if this isn’t the right place to ask my question. To get to the point I’ve been interested in buying a v2 cts v for a longg time and i think it might be the right time.. I’ve been looking at a couple Vs with high(ish) mileage 89k and a 93k i believe. Now i don’t wanna make this long asf, what do i look out for when buying a V is my first question. I’ve seen a couple that are stock and also a couple that are not stock at all lol.. my brain is telling me to get a stock one especially with that mileage, but my heart is also telling me to get a modded one bc i will prob end up modding it anyway that way i could save some $$.. also if i end up getting a V it will be my only car and daily. I know gas is expensive asf especially nowadays, but my commute to work is about 3-4 miles so i don’t think it should be a problem and im not getting this car for gas mileage to begin with.. give me any advice you got. I have 0 experience with ls motors btw I’ve always been a hemi guy but it’s time for a change. I’ll try to link a few of the cars im interested in.

I vote for the modded one with 66,000 miles and see if you can get an extended warranty
 

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So Vs are a great value- moreso when they're modded and drive well

But as an adult, having been there myself when I was younger...

DON'T BUY a 90k mile used car, modded or not, and then expect it to be reliable.

So unless you can and will walk to work - get a Kia with a warranty.

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Yea…now is a bitch of a time to buy a decent V2…the market has gotten silly.

Modded or not, with those miles you will be working on it…and it comes down to your capacity for getting stranded, being stuck with your daily down etc.

90k on one of these and you might as well consider an engine rebuild as a real possibility.

…so a $6-$10k rainy day fund is a good idea.

Just being real as a dude who bought a modded af V2 I thought I would daily. Had to rebuild motor at 56k miles.
 

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Seems to me the overall buying ‘decision tree’ has 3 parts: a) sedan, coupe or wagon, b) MT or AT, c) stock or modded. The 3 cars you shared aren’t the only cars available. But it sounds like you are after a real deal above all else in which case, of the above 3 cars, the 66k MT for $35,900 would be my winner on paper. Though you have to like that cam. Random84 offers good counsel: as with any 12 year old car, be ready for some downtime.
 

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Not that the same thing will happen to YOU as me, but I decided to buy one that was already modded and had 92,xxx on it. It lasted about 500 miles. The cam and lifters were junk and it ended up spinning main bearings as well. Over half the cam lobes were chewed up, and only 3 or 4 lifters. I think the previous owner lost some valve springs (which would explain why he told me to watch the valve springs when I bought it) and then wiped out the cam, had new lifters put in, and then promptly put it for sale.
 

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Not that the same thing will happen to YOU as me, but I decided to buy one that was already modded and had 92,xxx on it. It lasted about 500 miles. The cam and lifters were junk and it ended up spinning main bearings as well. Over half the cam lobes were chewed up, and only 3 or 4 lifters. I think the previous owner lost some valve springs (which would explain why he told me to watch the valve springs when I bought it) and then wiped out the cam, had new lifters put in, and then promptly put it for sale.

An expensive life lesson here.

Unfortunately, as so many of our cars have been modded already, there are more and more people out there that will develop a problem and then promptly dump the car onto some other unsuspecting buyer - who then gets to pay for it.

There's a rant about "accountability, the lack of masculine role models and the progressive destruction of our society resulting in rampant moral decay" in here somewhere - but ain't nobody got time for that.


Edit: of those cars, if you're dead-set on it, I'd probably pick either of the two stock rides. Having a 2-3 owner heavily modded V could be a good deal, or it could be like Loweredd's situation above and NO ONE will tell you about it. Certainly not the shop selling it. I'd be afraid that it's a 50-50 shot, and those are bad odds for a daily. The only question is do you want to pay several thousand more for a more unique color combination, or take the better deal on a "black" car. I'd lean towards option 1 so you can keep the few grand difference in reserve for maintenance. Just remember that even though they say "mechanically stock," there's always a potential that something has been changed.
 

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My 2011 one owner was stock and had 95k on it when I bought it in March of 2019 for 25k. I've done all the SC cooling upgrades CAI and catch can to date and still runs strong at 107k miles. I do service it often so I feel that is a major factor in longevity. There is a member on here that just rolled over 300k on stock bottom rotating assembly on a 2009. He stated trans was replaced at 275k but other that that most everything was still factory.
 

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Anecdotal though it may be, I bought a "Mechanically Stock" (upper pulley, intake and exhaust) sedan. "Mechanically Stock" can mean you put stock replacement brakes on your Civic, rather than springing for the Lamborghini carbon rotor kit.
I got to drive mine two months before I bent a pushrod. It had a 17th valve stem seal in the crankcase. Engine rebuilds are not for the faint of wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies everyone i really appreciate it.

So Vs are a great value- moreso when they're modded and drive well

But as an adult, having been there myself when I was younger...

DON'T BUY a 90k mile used car, modded or not, and then expect it to be reliable.

So unless you can and will walk to work - get a Kia with a warranty.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
mann thanks for the advice def not the answer I wanted to hear lol but I appreciate the honesty

Yea…now is a bitch of a time to buy a decent V2…the market has gotten silly.

Modded or not, with those miles you will be working on it…and it comes down to your capacity for getting stranded, being stuck with your daily down etc.

90k on one of these and you might as well consider an engine rebuild as a real possibility.

…so a $6-$10k rainy day fund is a good idea.

Just being real as a dude who bought a modded af V2 I thought I would daily. Had to rebuild motor at 56k miles.
so you would not recommend a V with that mileage? the thing is I'm not limited to those cars specifically obv, but the ones i found near my area are yes a lot lower miles but they're going for mid 40s and that's way out of my budget tbh

Seems to me the overall buying ‘decision tree’ has 3 parts: a) sedan, coupe or wagon, b) MT or AT, c) stock or modded. The 3 cars you shared aren’t the only cars available. But it sounds like you are after a real deal above all else in which case, of the above 3 cars, the 66k MT for $35,900 would be my winner on paper. Though you have to like that cam. Random84 offers good counsel: as with any 12 year old car, be ready for some downtime.
honestly man i was even hesitant to include this car, the car makes 700 wheel, i don't know how reliable that will be for a daily that would see snow rain etc.. and when it comes to the cam i def don't mind it i would want a cam anyway.. I've never been this hesitant to buy a car beforeo_Oo_O
 

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so you would not recommend a V with that mileage? the thing is I'm not limited to those cars specifically obv, but the ones i found near my area are yes a lot lower miles but they're going for mid 40s and that's way out of my budget tbh
I would say if $10k is the make or break in your budget, the financially wise decision would be to either toss it to a financial planner for short term (2-3 years in the market) gains and see what you can afford then or get something with a warranty.

These cars can go 200k miles with basic maintenance or eat up $15k in rebuild within a couple of tanks of gas. Plan for the second possibility while hoping for the first will make it as enjoyable as it can be.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not that the same thing will happen to YOU as me, but I decided to buy one that was already modded and had 92,xxx on it. It lasted about 500 miles. The cam and lifters were junk and it ended up spinning main bearings as well. Over half the cam lobes were chewed up, and only 3 or 4 lifters. I think the previous owner lost some valve springs (which would explain why he told me to watch the valve springs when I bought it) and then wiped out the cam, had new lifters put in, and then promptly put it for sale.
see that's exactly what I'm scared of. the more i read the comments the more i wanna stay away from a modded one and just get a bone stock one.

An expensive life lesson here.

Unfortunately, as so many of our cars have been modded already, there are more and more people out there that will develop a problem and then promptly dump the car onto some other unsuspecting buyer - who then gets to pay for it.

There's a rant about "accountability, the lack of masculine role models and the progressive destruction of our society resulting in rampant moral decay" in here somewhere - but ain't nobody got time for that.


Edit: of those cars, if you're dead-set on it, I'd probably pick either of the two stock rides. Having a 2-3 owner heavily modded V could be a good deal, or it could be like Loweredd's situation above and NO ONE will tell you about it. Certainly not the shop selling it. I'd be afraid that it's a 50-50 shot, and those are bad odds for a daily. The only question is do you want to pay several thousand more for a more unique color combination, or take the better deal on a "black" car. I'd lean towards option 1 so you can keep the few grand difference in reserve for maintenance. Just remember that even though they say "mechanically stock," there's always a potential that something has been changed.
I'm a boring guy i guess , I would much rather get a black one but that won't be my deciding factor, also would love to get one with recaros but again, not the end of the world if not. this is off the topic, but would you suggest getting a warranty when buying these cars or is it a waste of $

I would say if $10k is the make or break in your budget, the financially wise decision would be to either toss it to a financial planner for short term (2-3 years in the market) gains and see what you can afford then or get something with a warranty.

These cars can go 200k miles with basic maintenance or eat up $15k in rebuild within a couple of tanks of gas. Plan for the second possibility while hoping for the first will make it as enjoyable as it can be.


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appreciate the advice😃
 

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I'm a boring guy i guess , I would much rather get a black one but that won't be my deciding factor, also would love to get one with recaros but again, not the end of the world if not. this is off the topic, but would you suggest getting a warranty when buying these cars or is it a waste of $
I would have low expectations for an aftermarket warranty on any car or truck. Someone else may have first hand input in this specific scenario though.

The other thing to plan ahead for is how electronically heavy these cars are and they are 2 generations out of production. Thing like door latch solenoids, random switches, body sensors, seat motors, etc are nearing end of manufacturer support if not already discontinued. That can make it a real pain in the ass when the driver door won’t open and you’re stuck waiting 6-8 weeks for a replacement.

I know it sounds like some of us are being negative. We just want you to have the same awesome experience we have had with these cars and unrealistic expectations or poor planning will ruin it for you.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would have low expectations for an aftermarket warranty on any car or truck. Someone else may have first hand input in this specific scenario though.

The other thing to plan ahead for is how electronically heavy these cars are and they are 2 generations out of production. Thing like door latch solenoids, random switches, body sensors, seat motors, etc are nearing end of manufacturer support if not already discontinued. That can make it a real pain in the ass when the driver door won’t open and you’re stuck waiting 6-8 weeks for a replacement.

I know it sounds like some of us are being negative. We just want you to have the same awesome experience we have had with these cars and unrealistic expectations or poor planning will ruin it for you.


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thanks... will definitely keep that in mind
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My V has 108k with 575whp. It hasn't been 100% trouble free (search for fuel leak) but zero engine problems.

Having said that, if I was that worried about reliability, repairs, downtime, etc, I sure as hell wouldn't drive my V in the snow.
this might sound like a dumb question but why not drive it in the snow? or is it just bc too much power you'd be ice skating in snow ?
 

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this might sound like a dumb question but why not drive it in the snow? or is it just bc too much power you'd be ice skating in snow ?
My worry is super wide summer tires, or someone T-boning me.
My V is my year round daily driver. I have a second set of wheels with Blizzaks on them for the winter. Luckily, I'm retired so if the snow is too deep I don't have to go out. I also have an AWD TBSS for a winter beater if it gets out of the shop before the first big snow.
 

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I also have a set of blizzaks and drive my 900+ HP manual Wagon in the snow. YOLO bitches.

But that's $2k in a spare wheel setup and lots of risk.


You are risk adverse based on your budget and thus I would not recommend you "do what we do." We're all at different stages in life - and a man has to know his limitations.

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Do what makes you happen fuck it you only live once sure any car you mod and beat the shit out of you will be dumping money in it to fix it. I just wiped out 4 pistons so after total motor rebuild with more go fast parts it was like 10k. But I’ll make more money, every time I drive it I’m smiling and happy as fuck= priceless
 
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