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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Help diagnosing rattling noise, only when turning right...UPDATE=Drivers side Motor Mount

I'm having trouble pinpointing a rattling, grinding noise, coming from the front drivers side, when turning right...and only when turning right, while applying the throttle...even if just barely. It sounds almost like the tire rubbing on the brake duct...but it isn't. It's like a a rattle or almost like the supercharger marble/rattle noise. It doesn't happen unless the throttle is applied, and it doesn't happen when turning left at all.
I took it to a shop and they couldn't figure it out. They did find that my right front upper control arm bushings are cracked and I need at least the right rear shock and bushing. But nothing that explains the rattle, other than possibly that one of the resonators in my B&B X-pipe may be rattling. But why only on a right turn, under light throttle?
Any ideas?
 

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Mine does the exact same thing. I finally figured out that the collector flange in my headers is just close enough to the frame on the drivers side that when I make a hard right it allows the flange to just barely touch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like my drivers side motor mount may be leaking, shop says a 3-1/2 hour repair? Does this sound right? Is it a job that can be done without a lift and can it be done from the side while the suspension is out for bushing replacement. Any short cuts or tips is appreciated.
Thanks Matt
 

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Looks like my drivers side motor mount may be leaking, shop says a 3-1/2 hour repair? Does this sound right? Is it a job that can be done without a lift and can it be done from the side while the suspension is out for bushing replacement. Any short cuts or tips is appreciated.
Thanks Matt
You should be able to get to it by taking the bell housing to the firewall and dropping the cradle down as low as your steering rack will allow. You can at least get the bottom stud and dowel free from the cradle. You then have to do the same with the top, only that dowel is shorter. If you have headers its going to further complicate things. This can be done on the ground if you are the patient type.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok good to know. I don't have headers. I saw a video of the mount replacement on a Gen2 AWD V6 CTS and it almost looks like he could have pulled it from the wheel well if it wasn't AWD. Do you think it could come out the wheel well if the upper control arm and shock were already pulled?
 

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Ok good to know. I don't have headers. I saw a video of the mount replacement on a Gen2 AWD V6 CTS and it almost looks like he could have pulled it from the wheel well if it wasn't AWD. Do you think it could come out the wheel well if the upper control arm and shock were already pulled?
Only if you raise the engine and drop the cradle like I indicated. The factory mount has studs with nuts, not bolts. So you have to gain that much clearance to remove it from the subframe and upper bracket. You do all of that and get the nuts off and yes you can likely get it out from the side like you mention. Now installing a new factory mount, thats gonna be fun! At least you can always cut the lower stud and dowel if you have to to get it out, not so on the way back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'm not really the patient type, although I'm getting better, but I'm also not the pay someone $190/hr type to install $130 part if I can do it myself with a friend.
In the video the guy had to remove his cats to get the mount out and the new one back in, this may a good time to install my test pipes and replace my front bushings....for max clearance.
 

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If I remove the top bracket, the top bolt and dowel should be easier right?
Yea if you remove the top bracket from the block it should be a piece of cake.
 

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yes, however passenger side sees compression, not the tension that the driver side does, so they usually last much longer I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
yes, however passenger side sees compression, not the tension that the driver side does, so they usually last much longer I believe.
Yea, that's what I got when I searched, but I think I see fluid near the passenger side too. I have to replace the passenger side upper control arm bushings anyway, so I might as well do both, while I got it apart. Unfortunately it looks like GM did sooo much right on these cars but skimped on the bushings.
 
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