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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone else tried this??
So I put a ZL1 lid on a couple months ago and my cooling didnt seem to be any better than the way it was with stock lid. For the record I have ALL -12an lines, Pinnacle Performance under hood tank, varimax pump, and Fluidyne front mount triple pass HX. By the way my stock lid with the motorcycle coolant(2gal) and Royal Purple ICE for the whole system (no water) usually ran only 8-12 degrees (IAT2s) above ambient, and on a hard street pull would maybe go up to 120-125 (IAT2s)through 4th gear. Ok so I was happy with it, but still felt there was a performance gain by adding the ZL1 lid and had a bunch of mods planned, so I pulled the trigger.
Fast forward to post mod complete (cam (LT1z 2.5), P&P heads, lifters, 8.6/2.45 pulley setup). I was wanting to try something different with the hose routing. My previous setup for the last couple years (with both lids) was, pump>bottom port of lid>top port of lid to top port of underhood tank>bottom port of tank to front mount HX> pump. This setup may work great for street (so I thought) but it sucks at the track. I decided I would try coming from the front mount HX and push through the underhood tank and into the lid, that way when at the track the blocks of ice added in the tank will go right to the lid. This is where it wasn't working.. I was pulling from the bottom of the UH tank and going to the bottom port of the lid (like everyone does right?). So this new routing was; pump>top port of UH tank>out bottom port of UH tank to bottom port of lid>top port of lid to front mount HX>pump. However this was NOT very effective and IAT2s were staying more than 20 degrees above ambient, and I burped the air out at the top fitting of the lid a number of times and it seemed like it would keep getting air, which I figured was because the tank was lower than the lid? SO I figure before I switch back to my old routing, I wanted to try what doesn't seem to be right but what the fuck do I have to loose, so I swapped the lid lines and put the one coming from the UH tank to the top of the lid and bottom port went to the front mount HX. Was not expecting these results.. My IAT2s were within 2-4 degrees of ambient and even doing some spirited driving (tune is not complete so 4-4500 rpm is max with 10-12 psi for now.) . Anyone else try this? One thing I did notice is while at stoplights the temp creeps up pretty quick, but drops right back down as soon as you start to go.
Note: Post mod my HX system ONLY has purified water in it. and I did fill the UH tank to the very top to allow less air to be trapped in it.?
Will add screen shots from phone of IAT2s. Interested to here feedback and criticism
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Subscribing.

I'm about to redo my HX cooling loop since I am seeing the exact 20° delta from the ice-tank pushing to the lid on the street.


I had to sketch this out–is this the correct path that is working the best on the street?
Thats what I had for the last 2yrs and it seems to work well.
 

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I mentioned doing this in a previous thread. Some complained that it would be too hard to bleed air out of the lid. Some daid that they never saw a difference in delta t.

I was running mine like that for quite a while. I switched back to in>bottom out>top arrangement and didn’t see much difference either. Surprisingly for sustained cruising delta t, the best setup I’ve had is having the factory T filler and no under hood box. The box is great with ice, but not much help in daily driving. I put a zr1 pump on mine and with a c&r hx, zl1 lid and 3/4 lines and I see 9 degrees delta t cruising. I haven’t logged a “pass” without the box, but from my aeroforce it seems to stay pretty cool. Enough so that the box won’t be going back in.
 

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I mentioned doing this in a previous thread. Some complained that it would be too hard to bleed air out of the lid. Some daid that they never saw a difference in delta t.

I was running mine like that for quite a while. I switched back to in>bottom out>top arrangement and didn’t see much difference either. Surprisingly for sustained cruising delta t, the best setup I’ve had is having the factory T filler and no under hood box. The box is great with ice, but not much help in daily driving. I put a zr1 pump on mine and with a c&r hx, zl1 lid and 3/4 lines and I see 9 degrees delta t cruising. I haven’t logged a “pass” without the box, but from my aeroforce it seems to stay pretty cool. Enough so that the box won’t be going back in.
Thanks, Good info. I have some solo cups in the freezer and plan on putting them in the box to see how that works. I was on the other set-up at Caddy attack and my IAT's sucked! wasn't able to cool enough between rounds. And they only gave us 20-30min max.. The ice blocks in the tank did nadda..

Edit; I drove it today with the temp around 82-84 and the delta was +9-12 according to HP tune.? More to come.
 

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I mentioned doing this in a previous thread. Some complained that it would be too hard to bleed air out of the lid. Some daid that they never saw a difference in delta t.

I was running mine like that for quite a while. I switched back to in>bottom out>top arrangement and didn’t see much difference either. Surprisingly for sustained cruising delta t, the best setup I’ve had is having the factory T filler and no under hood box. The box is great with ice, but not much help in daily driving. I put a zr1 pump on mine and with a c&r hx, zl1 lid and 3/4 lines and I see 9 degrees delta t cruising. I haven’t logged a “pass” without the box, but from my aeroforce it seems to stay pretty cool. Enough so that the box won’t be going back in.
Mike,

With the box still installed was the delta t around 20°?



Thanks, Good info. I have some solo cups in the freezer and plan on putting them in the box to see how that works. I was on the other set-up at Caddy attack and my IAT's sucked! wasn't able to cool enough between rounds. And they only gave us 20-30min max.. The ice blocks in the tank did nadda..

Edit; I drove it today with the temp around 82-84 and the delta was +9-12 according to HP tune.? More to come.

Speaking about the track only, I had a friend from the pro mod world tell me about a stand alone chiller used to exchange hot water with cold water using a Jiffy-Tite fittings plus pump at the track. Might be a bit overkill but cool idea non the less. Google "Concato racing engine chiller"—I don't see why you couldn't build this for cheap using a 150qt+ cooler. He said they plumb the fittings into a C&R check valve and then run both pumps to exchange the fluid.
 

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Mike,

With the box still installed was the delta t around 20°?






Speaking about the track only, I had a friend from the pro mod world tell me about a stand alone chiller used to exchange hot water with cold water using a Jiffy-Tite fittings plus pump at the track. Might be a bit overkill but cool idea non the less. Google "Concato racing engine chiller"—I don't see why you couldn't build this for cheap using a 150qt+ cooler. He said they plumb the fittings into a C&R check valve and then run both pumps to exchange the fluid.
Steady state was 15-16

That water exchanger setup would be nice, but to take full advantage of it, you need the in car pump on a switch so you can turn it on only when your ready to pull into the burnout box. And having a heat exchanger that’s not bolted to the radiator would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mike,

With the box still installed was the delta t around 20°?






Speaking about the track only, I had a friend from the pro mod world tell me about a stand alone chiller used to exchange hot water with cold water using a Jiffy-Tite fittings plus pump at the track. Might be a bit overkill but cool idea non the less. Google "Concato racing engine chiller"—I don't see why you couldn't build this for cheap using a 150qt+ cooler. He said they plumb the fittings into a C&R check valve and then run both pumps to exchange the fluid.
It's a nice piece, and I saw a few hardcore guys at the track with similar setups. I don't have plans on making weekly trips to the track. It's more about finding something that works well on the street and I can get the extra cooling when at the track or doing 1/2 mile.
 

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Extremely difficult post to follow. The factory ZL1 routing actually has in the top and out the bottom vs in the bottom out the top on the CTS-V, this theoretically leaves the coldest path through the brick as the last.

As for your second option, the reason that didn't work is because you were trying to push through the tank which has air in it, I believe the BMR tank is configured this way and I'm baffled by it. Ideally, you want to feed the pump straight from the tank, pumps don't suck, they move water, you want to provide a steady supply (gravity feed).
 

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Extremely difficult post to follow. The factory ZL1 routing actually has in the top and out the bottom vs in the bottom out the top on the CTS-V, this theoretically leaves the coldest path through the brick as the last.

As for your second option, the reason that didn't work is because you were trying to push through the tank which has air in it, I believe the BMR tank is configured this way and I'm baffled by it. Ideally, you want to feed the pump straight from the tank, pumps don't suck, they move water, you want to provide a steady supply (gravity feed).
this is why, as much as a pain it was to route I ran from the tank down to the pump back up to the lid then back to the hx back up to the box. up down up down... I know
 
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