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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried searching for an answer to this but haven't found anything so I created an account in hopes of getting some info. V2s are just now starting to reach the end of that 10 year extension GM provides for replacing superchargers that develop the rattle with spring isolator.

My problem: I'm wanting to pull the trigger on a 2010 V2 A6 sedan with about 35k miles, but the SC hasn't been replaced yet and now it's nearly the end of 2020... Can I install the solid isolator to avoid any future problem or am I just gambling at this point since I couldn't take it to a dealer for a free replacement at this point...

I've been wanting to own a V2 forever but I can't deal with the idea that I may be on the hook for a new SC or according to GM, even worse - the engine ceasing if the problem is apparently bad enough.

Any and all help is appreciated!
 

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Just replace the isolator yourself and it will be just fine.
 
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This was basically my question - if you replace it with a solid one, does that ensure I won't encounter the rattle?

I've just been confused about this because the aftermarket isolator is cheap yet I see plenty of posts from people saying that they just plan to wait until their SC rattles and get it replaced for free. I understand that there's labor/install, but some of the replacements still came with spring isolators and the superchargers were just refurbished, not new, and I personally would never want to intentionally wait for something like that to just fail and start making noise... So I started to assume a solid isolator wasn't preventative.

Thanks for the answer!

I should be pulling the trigger this week. Only other problem is that I've never bought a car meant for fun that only has 2 pedals, but I know you guys most likely can't help me make up my mind on that dilemma.
 

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It’s NEVER been a supercharger failure issue.

Just a noise issue.


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The 10 years on that car might have already passed because it is based on the date car was put in service/sold.
Solid isolator is an easy fix. It can be done when you're swapping the pulley for a smaller one since the snout comes off for both procedures.
 

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The 10 years on that car might have already passed because it is based on the date car was put in service/sold.
Solid isolator is an easy fix. It can be done when you're swapping the pulley for a smaller one since the snout comes off for both procedures.
If I'm understanding you correctly, this is what I meant - the car I'm looking to buy is 10 years old and therefore not covered by the SC warranty anymore. That's why I got worried I wouldn't be covered to replace a SC myself if I had the problem arise. From what I understand now, a solid isolator will fix the rattle?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It’s NEVER been a supercharger failure issue.

Just a noise issue.


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Additional reply to you - hypothetically, if the rattling starts, would replacing just the OEM isolator with a solid one fix it? Or does that need to take place before any rattling begins?

It's just odd to me because GM "fixes" the issue by swapping the entire supercharger instead of just replacing the isolator. If they're already acknowledging that they're at fault for this problem, why not also just admit that the spring design is the problem vs solid?

Apologies - I know this is posted about all over the forums, I didn't intend to take this thread in this direction originally.
 

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GM does not service the supercharger. That is why they replace the whole unit even for something as simple as an isolator.
 
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My 2009 is past the 10 year mark to get the isolator replaced but I just figured I would do it myself. I can barely hear the rattle when I shut the engine off so I know its coming. I figured while I'm doing the isolator and pulling things apart, I should also do the reinforced brick and pulley swap while I'm there. Don't want to do the job twice lol
 

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My 2009 is past the 10 year mark to get the isolator replaced but I just figured I would do it myself. I can barely hear the rattle when I shut the engine off so I know its coming. I figured while I'm doing the isolator and pulling things apart, I should also do the reinforced brick and pulley swap while I'm there. Don't want to do the job twice lol
I was going to go this same route on mine, but that would have turned the $60 isolator job into a $3000 job with the supporting mods to go with the pulley swap. It only takes a couple of hours, even if you're taking your time, to pull the blower and swap the isolator.
 

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My 2009 is past the 10 year mark to get the isolator replaced but I just figured I would do it myself. I can barely hear the rattle when I shut the engine off so I know its coming. I figured while I'm doing the isolator and pulling things apart, I should also do the reinforced brick and pulley swap while I'm there. Don't want to do the job twice lol
Why not change to some 850s while you are doing all of this!
 

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I was going to go this same route on mine, but that would have turned the $60 isolator job into a $3000 job with the supporting mods to go with the pulley swap. It only takes a couple of hours, even if you're taking your time, to pull the blower and swap the isolator.
I hear ya. Don’t you have to pull the top lid off and the part of the supercharger to get the snout off?
 

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I hear ya. Don’t you have to pull the top lid off and the part of the supercharger to get the snout off?
Yes, but the blower only needs to be propped up ~2" in the front to get to the snout bolts. You still have to remove all of the blower bolts though.
 

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Yes, but the blower only needs to be propped up ~2" in the front to get to the snout bolts. You still have to remove all of the blower bolts though.
At that point it’s just easier to pull SC out to work on a bench.


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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help.

So just to confirm, theoretically if you do nothing until you hear the rattle, replacing the OEM isolator with a solid one will fix the problem?
 

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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 

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At that point it’s just easier to pull SC out to work on a bench.


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And make sure you don’t drop a bolt into the intake runner, like me


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At that point it’s just easier to pull SC out to work on a bench.


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It definitely would have been easier to scrape all the gasket maker off on a bench, but removing the SC solo would have been more of a challenge. My buddies are lame and won’t come lend a hand, ever for beer.
 
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