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Discussion Starter #1
Since COVID is slowing down delivery of the CWA100 pumps, I spent some time on the 400.



If you don’t already know, the CWA400 flows more than a reprogrammed EMP29.

I can put out a plug and play kit which would be -
A bracket which mounts the pump to the frame like the stock pump in the same location
A relay harness (the pump needs power straight from the battery) which is activated when the ECU wants the factory pump to turn on
Reducer couplings from pump inlet/outlet to 3/4”

Or a “tuner” kit which would be the pump and a relay harness for those with trunk tanks or anyone who wants to figure out their own mounting solution (like under the passenger headlight, etc).

Who would be interested in the PNP kit at $500 and the tuner kit at $450?




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I would if I didn't already have your CWA100 based pump
 

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Since COVID is slowing down delivery of the CWA100 pumps, I spent some time on the 400.



If you don’t already know, the CWA400 flows more than a reprogrammed EMP29.

I can put out a plug and play kit which would be -
A bracket which mounts the pump to the frame like the stock pump in the same location
A relay harness (the pump needs power straight from the battery) which is activated when the ECU wants the factory pump to turn on
Reducer couplings from pump inlet/outlet to 3/4”

Or a “tuner” kit which would be the pump and a relay harness for those with trunk tanks or anyone who wants to figure out their own mounting solution (like under the passenger headlight, etc).

Who would be interested in the PNP kit at $500 and the tuner kit at $450?




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This will be real good for the trunk tank guys...right?
 
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So I did this..


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An had -12 fittings welded on..which are cone shaped on the inside of the fitting to reduce down to -12, so the water moves.. Another cool feature of this pump is that once you turn off power (the signal wire) it runs at 10% duty cycle for 6 min which keeps the water from just sitting in the brick once you shut the car off. Now this pump will kill your battery rather quick if you sit with the key on. Be glad to answer questions, as I feel I'm the 1st caddy with this installed.. :)


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An had -12 fittings welded on..which are cone shaped on the inside of the fitting to reduce down to -12, so the water moves.. Another cool feature of this pump is that once you turn off power (the signal wire) it runs at 10% duty cycle for 6 min which keeps the water from just sitting in the brick once you shut the car off. Now this pump will kill your battery rather quick if you sit with the key on. Be glad to answer questions, as I feel I'm the 1st caddy with this installed.. :)


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You are cutting edge, Marine.

BTW going to be in your neck of the woods July 9 to have Cal do install the lower I didn't get done previously and retune.
 

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You are cutting edge, Marine.

BTW going to be in your neck of the woods July 9 to have Cal do install the lower I didn't get done previously and retune.
Ha thanks!! Not quite my neck of the woods.. side of the state yes, but Cal is 2hrs down the road. You are welcome to do a stop in if you come up this way..
 
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What is the amp draw under load? My reprogrammed EMP is around 23-26ish and nukes my battery if key position = acc.

I would imagine this new pump, at full tilt, would push a higher amperage with smaller fittings restricting both inlet and outlet flow or no?

Researching this pump lead me to a YouTube video demonstrating a home brewed pump controller via Arduino. The details are vague at best but it is controlled via different variable data points. The guy is unresponsive to any feedback which is to be expect due to IP.

I'd ditch my reprogrammed EMP in a second for a variable speed pump. The binary EMP pump setup is not ideal for daily driving situations and I've yet to see a CAN bus engineer solve the EMP/V tuner setup. The CWA400 does look promising.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What is the amp draw under load? My reprogrammed EMP is around 23-26ish and nukes my battery if key position = acc.

I would imagine this new pump, at full tilt, would push a higher amperage with smaller fittings restricting both inlet and outlet flow or no?

Researching this pump lead me to a YouTube video demonstrating a home brewed pump controller via Arduino. The details are vague at best but it is controlled via different variable data points. The guy is unresponsive to any feedback which is to be expect due to IP.

I'd ditch my reprogrammed EMP in a second for a variable speed pump. The binary EMP pump setup is not ideal for daily driving situations and I've yet to see a CAN bus engineer solve the EMP/V tuner setup. The CWA400 does look promising.
36 amps at full load!!

The PWM control isn’t a sweet and simple setup. No canbus shenanigans needed.


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What is the amp draw under load? My reprogrammed EMP is around 23-26ish and nukes my battery if key position = acc.

I would imagine this new pump, at full tilt, would push a higher amperage with smaller fittings restricting both inlet and outlet flow or no?

Researching this pump lead me to a YouTube video demonstrating a home brewed pump controller via Arduino. The details are vague at best but it is controlled via different variable data points. The guy is unresponsive to any feedback which is to be expect due to IP.

I'd ditch my reprogrammed EMP in a second for a variable speed pump. The binary EMP pump setup is not ideal for daily driving situations and I've yet to see a CAN bus engineer solve the EMP/V tuner setup. The CWA400 does look promising.
I just uploaded my video of the test I did to be sure it would work well in the trunk. So 40ft+ of hose an it's also running through the brick an my fluidyne front mount HE. So the whole system plus..
Search CWA400 pump test.. yeah I'm the funny guy with my girl shooting vid.

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I'm starting to suspect that my emp may be cutting out when I go full throttle. Even with an iced tank sometimes my numbers will rise from 60* to 150's in a quarter mile and other times they won't crack 100. No way I have any air in the system and it's very inconsistent.
 

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I'm starting to suspect that my emp may be cutting out when I go full throttle. Even with an iced tank sometimes my numbers will rise from 60* to 150's in a quarter mile and other times they won't crack 100. No way I have any air in the system and it's very inconsistent.
How long have you had it?


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How long have you had it?


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@tabio42 , hey, with my set up i go right to battery with the power cables, and I know at times under full load WOT battery voltage can drop off (down to 11v or even less if your batt is getting weak). Have you considered running a BAP to the CWA400 just to see if voltage will increase flow or keep it consistent? I have an extra Kenny Bell BAP laying around and thought about doing some tests to see if i could hook it to the pump and use the vacuum switch to over drive it.. Anyone tried something like this? Let me know your thoughts..

@EFoxwell - I would defiantly recheck connections (pins in connector?), and the other thing I would look into, is, does the EMP pump only run between certain voltage? So at WOT if you are dropping too low voltage wise, would/does that effect the pump? Will the pump shut down @ 10v? just throwing out stuff in hopes you get it figured.. Good Luck
 

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@tabio42 , hey, with my set up i go right to battery with the power cables, and I know at times under full load WOT battery voltage can drop off (down to 11v or even less if your batt is getting weak). Have you considered running a BAP to the CWA400 just to see if voltage will increase flow or keep it consistent? I have an extra Kenny Bell BAP laying around and thought about doing some tests to see if i could hook it to the pump and use the vacuum switch to over drive it.. Anyone tried something like this? Let me know your thoughts..

@EFoxwell - I would defiantly recheck connections (pins in connector?), and the other thing I would look into, is, does the EMP pump only run between certain voltage? So at WOT if you are dropping too low voltage wise, would/does that effect the pump? Will the pump shut down @ 10v? just throwing out stuff in hopes you get it figured.. Good Luck
I think cost wise, a PWM controller would make more sense than a boost a pump. Anything over 14v and the pump shuts itself down anyway.


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