Fuel Pump Access Panel - same shape work for both sides?

1875 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Lightning!, 8 mo ago

Lightning!

Discussion Starter · 9 mo ago

Does the fuel pump access panel from Jlinks work for covering both pumps (driver and passenger side)? From the pics I see it looks like it is only one shape but if you end up needing to access both pumps, it looks like you would need a right and left version (mirror each other). Is that correct, or am I just looking at it wrong? Or does he make a right and left version?

My fuel gauge is not working so I suspect the sending units (am not using Shell gas, so that is not the issue). From research on here, the car has two pumps and two sending units. Car is a 2011 Wagon and stock. Don't know which one is causing the issue, so preparing for the worst and needing to get to both.

Apologies if this has already been covered, but I couldn't find this in any searches

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Karch

· #2 · 9 mo ago (Edited)

There aren’t any pumps on the driver’s side.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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t.j.t

· #3 · 9 mo ago

Both sides have sending units yes, and you can cut it the same the passenger side.

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Sudderth

· #4 · 9 mo ago

True there is a sender on both sides. When I got the dreaded leak I replaced the pump on the passenger side and it came with a new sending unit. Want to point out the fuel gauge read incorrectly before the change so it was the sender on the passenger side. There is a sender on the drivers side and it can be accessed the same way. The gauge uses both sides to determine the level. Now, I had a 350Z where the sending unit on the drivers side failed. Since the replacement on my 2013 sedan it has worked properly.

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MeanMike

· #5 · 9 mo ago

I don't think the pre fabricated patch panel that is typically used on the passenger side will work well on the drivers side. It really needs to be a mirror image of what it is to work there.

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07GTS

· #6 · 9 mo ago

ive just fitted up a little 200lph pump on the opposite side instead of the venturi, got a module i can set to switch it off/on when the fuel goes low using the voltage changing in the sender output, feeds into the pot for the main pumps in the AI setup i got should be good i hope once it all going

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Sudderth

· #7 · 8 mo ago

True to the patch. It would be easy if you could find a wrecked car and oversize cut the panel. Can’t find any V2 CTS in the wrecking yard.

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Lightning!

Discussion Starter · #8 · 8 mo ago

MeanMike said:
I don't think the pre fabricated patch panel that is typically used on the passenger side will work well on the drivers side. It really needs to be a mirror image of what it is to work there.

OK that is what I thought. Will do the passenger side first and hope that is the problem side. Hopefully won't have to get into both. Thanks for the info

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Sudderth

· #9 · 8 mo ago

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weaponxmotorsports.com

they supposedly have the cover plate. It does not fit exactly but it beats making your own. Just be careful cutting the hole so you don't cut the wires, hoses or drill a hole in the gas tank. My hose was messed up so I removed the whole thing and went down to a hose store and had a braided stainless steel hose made with the proper end and used two fuel injector hose clamps on the tank side. I took the old one down as a pattern for the guy to make the new one fit first time. Put your o-ring in the sun so it dries out so it will fit. If the o-ring is wet with fuel it expands and makes it a pain to get the fuel lid to seal. Oh, get a fuel pump ring removal tool as the ring that holds the assembly in place is difficult to remove. That Lucas gun oil in a spray can works great to get the ring to loosen up. If you need to jar it loose get a brass hammer so you don't make sparks... Have a friend do fire watch with a fire extinguisher.

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Lightning!

Discussion Starter · #10 · 8 mo ago

Sudderth said:
Products

weaponxmotorsports.com

they supposedly have the cover plate. It does not fit exactly but it beats making your own. Just be careful cutting the hole so you don't cut the wires, hoses or drill a hole in the gas tank. My hose was messed up so I removed the whole thing and went down to a hose store and had a braided stainless steel hose made with the proper end and used two fuel injector hose clamps on the tank side. I took the old one down as a pattern for the guy to make the new one fit first time. Put your o-ring in the sun so it dries out so it will fit. If the o-ring is wet with fuel it expands and makes it a pain to get the fuel lid to seal. Oh, get a fuel pump ring removal tool as the ring that holds the assembly in place is difficult to remove. That Lucas gun oil in a spray can works great to get the ring to loosen up. If you need to jar it loose get a brass hammer so you don't make sparks... Have a friend do fire watch with a fire extinguisher.

@Sudderth thanks for the tips! Gathering the parts to tackle this. Ordered similar plate from another company (can't remember at the moment). Also ordered the upgraded hat from ALM that addresses the fuel line connection leak. Don't have that problem currently, but figured since I'm in there already, might as well take a few extra steps and change it out.

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