Weather was good so decided to take the car back to the track. Mods are in sig. Not sure what to do next so post up your opinions/thoughts/advice and shit talking lol
I’ll say this, the damn car is consistent 😑
Runs 11.1 @127 like clockwork. I cannot get this setup to cut better than a 1.6 60ft on the current tire setup which is a 275 MT street SS. Cuts almost the exact same 60ft, time and mph on a 305 MT SS.
IAT’s stay under control so I don’t think it’s pulling any timing.
so I’m at a crossroads of trying to figure out what to do next to break into the 10’s.
Do a lower pulley and turn the meth back on to keep IAT under control?
Switch to a ET R or something else and hope the 60ft improves?
Replace the probably worn out suspension and hope it plants better?
Put a 50 shot on it?
I don’t feel like the car is spinning bad. Am I just not making enough power which is resulting in trash 60ft’s? I know az doesn’t have the best DA for racing. Open to all thoughts you guys throw out!
Sounds exactly like my issue year before last, lazy 60' with the stock torque converter. Decided to install a 2600 stall, billet, triple disc lock-up converter last winter and my 60' improved by almost 2/10ths last year.
@Karch lol, I keep forgetting, think this is 2nd person I got it wrong with. @random84 yeah, I'm tracking, have 3600 on my nitrous car, just never had one on PD.
All good, just thought I would point it out in case Random took a nap.
With a PD, it’s not as pertinent, especially on the stock cam. It really is dependent on the setup.
I had a, I think, Yank, 3600 on my TBSS. I think I would have been better off with the 3200 as I was on the stock cam. So that vehicle weighed around 4800# if memory serves me, 3.06 first gear, 4.10 rear axle, and I forget but 28-30” tall tire.
V is 500# lighter, way more torque, smaller cam, a bit less static compression but dynamic compression is way higher on the hit (I’m close to 17 psi max).
If I had a cam with more than, say, 224 degrees intake duration (not going to get into all the various aspects/specs), then I would consider a bit higher stall speed depending on usage.
My TBSS definitely loss mpg with that converter, but much stronger on the hit.
My V would probably be a bigger hit but I’m already traction limited as I don’t drive around on DR’s and it’s not primarily a race car.
Anyway, this is more for general consumption than for anyone in particular. I just personally believe that unless you are suffering on torque below 2K rpm, perhaps a converter isn’t the next best mod.
[QUOTE="Karch, post: 2592014, member:
With a PD, it’s not as pertinent, especially on the stock cam. It really is dependent on the setup.
I had a, I think, Yank, 3600 on my TBSS. I think I would have been better off with the 3200 as I was on the stock cam. So that vehicle weighed around 4800# if memory serves me, 3.06 first gear, 4.10 rear axle, and I forget but 28-30” tall tire.
V is 500# lighter, way more torque, smaller cam, a bit less static compression but dynamic compression is way higher on the hit (I’m close to 17 psi max).
My TBSS definitely loss mpg with that converter, but much stronger on the hit.
My V would probably be a bigger hit but I’m already traction limited as I don’t drive around on DR’s and it’s not primarily a race car.
[/QUOTE]
I had a Yank 3600 in my stock internal TBSS. However, it was AWD so 3600 put me right in peak torque range with no wheel spin. Now that I have the V I went down to a 3200 on the last TBSS.rebuild.
The basic converter Yank sells for the V has a 3000 stall speed. I wouldn't go that high in the V depending on the mods. I'd try to be near where the torque curve starts to rise and not too far into it. Study your dyno sheet after your mods are complete to help determine stall speed. My max torque on E85 is at 3800 rpm. It's only a smidge lower (still over 650) at 3500 rpm. Any numbers lower are unusable due to curve smoothing as measurement started at 3100 rpm. Personally, I wouldn't go over 24-2600 or so to keep it usable for daily driving.
My Precision Industries Vigilante billet lock-up stalls at 2600 (but my launch RPM is less than that). Street manners are no different than stock, reduced ET by almost 2/10ths and... picking up the front wheels on the launch... priceless!
Remove excess weight is the way to go faster with same power. pull front passenger and rear seats, air compressor, empty glove box, go to a lithium battery.
Ah yes I believe I saw that motor he posted in the gas port piston thread.
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