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2011 cts v coupe
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Weather was good so decided to take the car back to the track. Mods are in sig. Not sure what to do next so post up your opinions/thoughts/advice and shit talking lol

I鈥檒l say this, the damn car is consistent 馃槕
Runs 11.1 @127 like clockwork. I cannot get this setup to cut better than a 1.6 60ft on the current tire setup which is a 275 MT street SS. Cuts almost the exact same 60ft, time and mph on a 305 MT SS.
IAT鈥檚 stay under control so I don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 pulling any timing.
so I鈥檓 at a crossroads of trying to figure out what to do next to break into the 10鈥檚.
Do a lower pulley and turn the meth back on to keep IAT under control?
Switch to a ET R or something else and hope the 60ft improves?
Replace the probably worn out suspension and hope it plants better?
Put a 50 shot on it?

I don鈥檛 feel like the car is spinning bad. Am I just not making enough power which is resulting in trash 60ft鈥檚? I know az doesn鈥檛 have the best DA for racing. Open to all thoughts you guys throw out!
 

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Sounds exactly like my issue year before last, lazy 60' with the stock torque converter. Decided to install a 2600 stall, billet, triple disc lock-up converter last winter and my 60' improved by almost 2/10ths last year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cam+ ~8.6 lower+meth+larger intake+305 street R's. I cut 1.4 with R's vs ~1.7-1.8 SS.
Damn. They made that big of a difference!? How were you launching the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am pretty sure the DA is playing a good part in it. I figured I could at least crack a 10.99 lol
 
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Torque converter will make a YUGE difference. Also relatively cheap, easy and safe.
 

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I have a six speed. :D but torque converters have been a thing for the past 40+ years. My last was a Yank in a 383 stroker for a 1984 Corvette. Ha.
 

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All good, just thought I would point it out in case Random took a nap.

With a PD, it鈥檚 not as pertinent, especially on the stock cam. It really is dependent on the setup.

I had a, I think, Yank, 3600 on my TBSS. I think I would have been better off with the 3200 as I was on the stock cam. So that vehicle weighed around 4800# if memory serves me, 3.06 first gear, 4.10 rear axle, and I forget but 28-30鈥 tall tire.

V is 500# lighter, way more torque, smaller cam, a bit less static compression but dynamic compression is way higher on the hit (I鈥檓 close to 17 psi max).

If I had a cam with more than, say, 224 degrees intake duration (not going to get into all the various aspects/specs), then I would consider a bit higher stall speed depending on usage.


My TBSS definitely loss mpg with that converter, but much stronger on the hit.

My V would probably be a bigger hit but I鈥檓 already traction limited as I don鈥檛 drive around on DR鈥檚 and it鈥檚 not primarily a race car.

Anyway, this is more for general consumption than for anyone in particular. I just personally believe that unless you are suffering on torque below 2K rpm, perhaps a converter isn鈥檛 the next best mod.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
While I do plan on doing a TC down the road, it will be when I do the built motor with a cam etc as that will effect which TC I choose.
 
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[QUOTE="Karch, post: 2592014, member:
With a PD, it鈥檚 not as pertinent, especially on the stock cam. It really is dependent on the setup.

I had a, I think, Yank, 3600 on my TBSS. I think I would have been better off with the 3200 as I was on the stock cam. So that vehicle weighed around 4800# if memory serves me, 3.06 first gear, 4.10 rear axle, and I forget but 28-30鈥 tall tire.

V is 500# lighter, way more torque, smaller cam, a bit less static compression but dynamic compression is way higher on the hit (I鈥檓 close to 17 psi max).

My TBSS definitely loss mpg with that converter, but much stronger on the hit.

My V would probably be a bigger hit but I鈥檓 already traction limited as I don鈥檛 drive around on DR鈥檚 and it鈥檚 not primarily a race car.
[/QUOTE]

I had a Yank 3600 in my stock internal TBSS. However, it was AWD so 3600 put me right in peak torque range with no wheel spin. Now that I have the V I went down to a 3200 on the last TBSS.rebuild.

The basic converter Yank sells for the V has a 3000 stall speed. I wouldn't go that high in the V depending on the mods. I'd try to be near where the torque curve starts to rise and not too far into it. Study your dyno sheet after your mods are complete to help determine stall speed. My max torque on E85 is at 3800 rpm. It's only a smidge lower (still over 650) at 3500 rpm. Any numbers lower are unusable due to curve smoothing as measurement started at 3100 rpm. Personally, I wouldn't go over 24-2600 or so to keep it usable for daily driving.
 

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My Precision Industries Vigilante billet lock-up stalls at 2600 (but my launch RPM is less than that). Street manners are no different than stock, reduced ET by almost 2/10ths and... picking up the front wheels on the launch... priceless! :oops::love:

Wheel Tire Vehicle Sky Automotive side marker light
 

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Remove excess weight is the way to go faster with same power. pull front passenger and rear seats, air compressor, empty glove box, go to a lithium battery.
 
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Remove excess weight is the way to go faster with same power. pull front passenger and rear seats, air compressor, empty glove box, go to a lithium battery.
Big-Boo to you for stripping a 'V' down to go fast.. ;) ;)

Don't take weight out. . .
Just keep putting money in it..:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Cheers,
Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lol I will not be stripping anything out. In my younger years I was fine with driving around a caged and gutted street car. I won鈥檛 do that to the V.

@rubberduck while I got ya, what鈥檚 your thoughts on the ly6 block?
 
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Lose your Covid weight. That should be good for a few hundredths. I should get about .04 off my 1/4 time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Lol I didn鈥檛 get fat over Covid like a lot of people. So that鈥檚 also not an option
 
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