Front hub/bearings, which to buy?

I just installed OEM, its actually pretty easy with basic tools needed
on the advice of my suspension alignment guy I only changed one
He says he sees customer's vehicles multiple changes on one side versus the other.
He recommended Timkin brand but I had already ordered a pair of OEM.
He claims the arc in the road or driving habits or maybe the OEM at the factory level was just that much better
I've been a victim of "let me change all this shit" before and honestly doing one side now versus the other later is no labor savings besides having your tools out

when I was checking around online sometimes the base model one would come up even though I was putting in V model, its half the price so that might be the big price differences you're seeing

RobF300 said:

I just installed OEM, its actually pretty easy with basic tools needed

He recommended Timkin brand but I had already ordered a pair of OEM.

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Could you be more specific on "OEM"?

I replaced the LF hub on my 2009 Sedan a few years ago. The ACDelco part number is #25954415. I got it from RockAuto, it was around $200 at the time.

No Quarter said:

Could you be more specific on "OEM"?

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see below, i used the same on my 14
one part fits both sides, there is no L and R
I got mine from a dealer but it was the same part number obviously

SilverSurfer said:

I replaced the LF hub on my 2009 Sedan a few years ago. The ACDelco part number is #25954415. I got it from RockAuto, it was around $200 at the time.

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RobF300 said:

see below, i used the same on my 14
one part fits both sides, there is no L and R
I got mine from a dealer but it was the same part number obviously

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From what I gathered, it's the same part for all 4 corners.

Ebay has been known for selling fake parts. I'm not saying what you are looking for is fake, merely Caveat Emptor.

Rock auto had them on clearance a while back - I picked up all four some stupid cheap price. Might check there.

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RobF300 said:

I just installed OEM, its actually pretty easy with basic tools needed
on the advice of my suspension alignment guy I only changed one
He says he sees customer's vehicles multiple changes on one side versus the other.
He recommended Timkin brand but I had already ordered a pair of OEM.
He claims the arc in the road or driving habits or maybe the OEM at the factory level was just that much better
I've been a victim of "let me change all this shit" before and honestly doing one side now versus the other later is no labor savings besides having your tools out

when I was checking around online sometimes the base model one would come up even though I was putting in V model, its half the price so that might be the big price differences you're seeing

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Yes, great move. Parts might last 5k miles or forever. Besides wear items like struts and tires, the best parts are the ones on your car working fine. Wheel bearings are easy to know if bad or not and are one of those parts that can last a very long time or not. Took me a long time to learn a new part is not always a better part, especially with aftermarket

I had Timken recommended to me years ago as a GM replacement, have put them on multiple vehicles including the V never had a problem. Rockauto shows GM OEM at $216 per, Timken are at $125 per

once again just be careful ordering as it seems they all sometimes show up even when you select the engine size

Curious who makes the OEM bearings?

m13s said:

Curious who makes the OEM bearings?

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im going to open the other box up and check it out, if its timken ill shit my pants lol

RobF300 said:

im going to open the other box up and check it out, if its timken ill shit my pants lol

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Pics or it didn't happen.

I've used Timkin, Moog and ***. All good, I never thought to see who makes the OEM bearings.

NOTE: The OEM and most replacement assemblies are ball bearing sets.
If you want the BEST, Timken services this application with assemblies built around Timken tapered roller bearings. Those are the ones that are 2-300 bux -per corner.

MrSurly said:

NOTE: The OEM and most replacement assemblies are ball bearing sets.
If you want the BEST, Timken services this application with assemblies built around Timken tapered roller bearings. Those are the ones that are 2-300 bux -per corner.

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knowing what I know now and the fact that the OEM wore out in 45k miles I would go with the timken. I cant say for certain what bearings the OEM has, but they wore out in 45k miles so what does someone have to lose by trying a different one

RobF300 said:

knowing what I know now and the fact that the OEM wore out in 45k miles I would go with the timken. I cant say for certain what bearings the OEM has, but they wore out in 45k miles so what does someone have to lose by trying a different one

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I can assure you that you found an outlier. These wheel bearing assemblies (referring to this now-near-universal assembly as a design across most mfrs) really RARELY fail. It's just not a thing. To have one go out is extremely unusual under 150,000 miles. I bitched about them (as a mechanic) way back in the early eighties when they sort of took over the industry, primarily on fwd cars and later, everything. But my bitching was just because they were 'different', not because they were bad. I eventually had to accept that the damned things worked.

MrSurly said:

I can assure you that you found an outlier. These wheel bearing assemblies (referring to this now-near-universal assembly as a design across most mfrs) really RARELY fail. It's just not a thing. To have one go out is extremely unusual under 150,000 miles. I bitched about them (as a mechanic) way back in the early eighties when they sort of took over the industry, primarily on fwd cars and later, everything. But my bitching was just because they were 'different', not because they were bad. I eventually had to accept that the damned things worked.

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what do you suppose happened then? from sitting they got rust? seal went bad and some water crepped in and rusted?
I moved the car one day and thought I had a branch under it. Thats how loud it was. Then it went away, then it came back

I'm going with outlier also.

94,000 miles on 4 of them here, with aftermarket suspension, wider wheels and lowered in 4 season Ohio weather.



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