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For my 2009 CTS-V, on ebay all kinds of parts come up, from $50 for two, to $350. Since I have to get them sent to Denmark, I don't want to go cheap and risk having to replace soon. So I looked for AC Delco products, ebay comes up with FW381. But when checking against my car, it says "This part is not compatible with this 2009 Cadillac CTS V Sedan 4-Door 6.2L 6162CC 376Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Supercharged. "

So what to buy? Are the cheap ones good enough? It should be said that I occasionally run 300 km/h on German highways, so I don't want cheapo shit... :)
 

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I just installed OEM, its actually pretty easy with basic tools needed
on the advice of my suspension alignment guy I only changed one
He says he sees customer's vehicles multiple changes on one side versus the other.
He recommended Timkin brand but I had already ordered a pair of OEM.
He claims the arc in the road or driving habits or maybe the OEM at the factory level was just that much better
I've been a victim of "let me change all this shit" before and honestly doing one side now versus the other later is no labor savings besides having your tools out

when I was checking around online sometimes the base model one would come up even though I was putting in V model, its half the price so that might be the big price differences you're seeing
 

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Could you be more specific on "OEM"?
see below, i used the same on my 14
one part fits both sides, there is no L and R
I got mine from a dealer but it was the same part number obviously


I replaced the LF hub on my 2009 Sedan a few years ago. The ACDelco part number is #25954415. I got it from RockAuto, it was around $200 at the time.
 

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Rock auto had them on clearance a while back - I picked up all four some stupid cheap price. Might check there.

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I just installed OEM, its actually pretty easy with basic tools needed
on the advice of my suspension alignment guy I only changed one
He says he sees customer's vehicles multiple changes on one side versus the other.
He recommended Timkin brand but I had already ordered a pair of OEM.
He claims the arc in the road or driving habits or maybe the OEM at the factory level was just that much better
I've been a victim of "let me change all this shit" before and honestly doing one side now versus the other later is no labor savings besides having your tools out

when I was checking around online sometimes the base model one would come up even though I was putting in V model, its half the price so that might be the big price differences you're seeing
Yes, great move. Parts might last 5k miles or forever. Besides wear items like struts and tires, the best parts are the ones on your car working fine. Wheel bearings are easy to know if bad or not and are one of those parts that can last a very long time or not. Took me a long time to learn a new part is not always a better part, especially with aftermarket
 

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I had Timken recommended to me years ago as a GM replacement, have put them on multiple vehicles including the V never had a problem. Rockauto shows GM OEM at $216 per, Timken are at $125 per
 

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So its SKF.
I looked on SKF website and one is for the base model

it shows BR930555 is for the V and its cheap, really cheap.
Oh well, maybe I saved some of you some money by reading this SKF website: SKF

even though my parts guy treats me really good I wish I had this information a few weeks ago

only thing i did notice is one standard hub shows it much more expensive, wonder if its a glitch in the system or if its just because they are on closeout??



 

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NOTE: The OEM and most replacement assemblies are ball bearing sets.
If you want the BEST, Timken services this application with assemblies built around Timken tapered roller bearings. Those are the ones that are 2-300 bux -per corner.
knowing what I know now and the fact that the OEM wore out in 45k miles I would go with the timken. I cant say for certain what bearings the OEM has, but they wore out in 45k miles so what does someone have to lose by trying a different one
 

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knowing what I know now and the fact that the OEM wore out in 45k miles I would go with the timken. I cant say for certain what bearings the OEM has, but they wore out in 45k miles so what does someone have to lose by trying a different one
I can assure you that you found an outlier. These wheel bearing assemblies (referring to this now-near-universal assembly as a design across most mfrs) really RARELY fail. It's just not a thing. To have one go out is extremely unusual under 150,000 miles. I bitched about them (as a mechanic) way back in the early eighties when they sort of took over the industry, primarily on fwd cars and later, everything. But my bitching was just because they were 'different', not because they were bad. I eventually had to accept that the damned things worked.
 

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I can assure you that you found an outlier. These wheel bearing assemblies (referring to this now-near-universal assembly as a design across most mfrs) really RARELY fail. It's just not a thing. To have one go out is extremely unusual under 150,000 miles. I bitched about them (as a mechanic) way back in the early eighties when they sort of took over the industry, primarily on fwd cars and later, everything. But my bitching was just because they were 'different', not because they were bad. I eventually had to accept that the damned things worked.
what do you suppose happened then? from sitting they got rust? seal went bad and some water crepped in and rusted?
I moved the car one day and thought I had a branch under it. Thats how loud it was. Then it went away, then it came back
 

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I'm going with outlier also.

94,000 miles on 4 of them here, with aftermarket suspension, wider wheels and lowered in 4 season Ohio weather.



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