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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
SUCESS, the car is running........but not without some issues

So I got the base tune from Justin white, and uploaded it without any issue at all. Topped off all the fluids (oil, gas, and a little antifreeze) I think I mentioned this earlier, but the plan was to turn the car over without the coils wires connected to try and build some oil pressure before starting the car.

But before, I could do this I needed to install the dip stick....This was one of the few times I needed help from the wife. I am sure that someone out there could install this without assistance, but I am not one of them. Only issue I had with this is that the tab is a little to thick or tall with the headers. So out came the grinder and the black primer spray paint. Once complete, dip stick fit like a glove.

So I then went into the DIC and put it on the oil pressure screen ........said a little prayer, and turned her over, listening for the signs that I jacked something up, such as a loud clunk, significant taping or very low oil pressure in the DIC. Little did I know that once you turn the key, the DIC goes blank so I couldn't see the oil pressure, but everything else seemed fine.....no weird noises or anything..........So this left me with a dilemma......Go out and try and find/buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge, go through all the trouble of hooking it up for all of 30 seconds tops, for nothing more than piece of mind.......My only other option was to just SEND IT.

I decided on option "B" as I felt that everything was done correctly, and if I had low oil pressure, I would shut it off immediately, and probably put a wrench trough the windshield because of frustration anyways..lol

So I hooked up all of the coils, gave everything another once over (mostly to make sure that nothing was rubbing on a belt or anything). Turned the key and it turned over, would catch for about a second, but would not start. I kept attempting to start the car for a god five minutes, like a miracle was going to happen and it was just going to magically start lol. I then went into trouble shooting mode. I knew that, it had to be one of three things, fuel, spark, or air.

I ruled out spark, as I really haven't touched anything with spark, other than new spark plugs. My OCD is so high that I made sure to mark which cylinders the coils and wires came off of so that I could put them back exactly like original.

It could have been air, as I had a new throttle body on there, along with heads, and ported supercharger and intake....Basically everything air related had been touched.

So I moved on to fuel, which in my mind was the easiest to test. I knew that I had a working pump that I could make run anytime that the ignition was on (the DSX kit). I decided to hook it back up to that first plug in front of the Map sensor, and turn her over and see what happens.

Turned her over and to my surprise it started right up....To be honest with you all, it kinda surprised me. To the point that I wasn't watching the oil pressure like a hawk like I wanted too. I also intended to film that first start up. But after about five seconds I immediately turned to the oil pressure gauge in the DIC and it stated 59 PSI (remember, I am running a ported and blueprinted LSA oil pump).........I can't accurately describe to you all the wave of relief. I let it run for maybe 30 seconds and shut it off. I now knew what the culprit was........fuel.

The first thing that I thought is that I must have wired something wrong when I was switching everything over when I went with Adams fuel lid. I shot Adam a quick text so that we could talk it through and figure out my best option (let me take a second here to thank Adam. This dudes customer service is amazing). The one thing I didn't want to do was pull the fuel pumps again, as I caught hell getting the lid to fully seal in the first place, and I know have about five gallons of gas in the tank......I am really about done with smelling gas all the time. Also, I know the pumps are running as I can hear them when I turn on the ignition. So after discussions with Adam, he informed me that the wiring is probably inverted.......or in other words my pumps are running in reverse. I should be able to switch the wires on the plug that is on the lid, and achieve the same results as pulling out the pumps and rewiring them there. He also informed that of the four wires on the harness going into the pump harness, there should be two hot and two grounds. So I grabbed my multimeter, and quickly realized that the testing would be much easier with a test light. I noticed that the two inside wires were hot, and the two outsides ones were ground. So I took two of the wires (one ground and one hot) and switched them and plugged them in (and left the two additional ones unplugged), thinking that one pump would kick on......turned on the ignition and nothing from the pumps. I tried several different configurations with the the two wires. I finally made it back around to how they were originally with just the two wires and nothing was happening....not even running in reverse. Put the test light back to them and I was getting power. I then went and flipped the other two wires and plugged them in as well (plugged in all four wires), and the pumps immediately kicked on with the ignition switch. I proceeded to go underneath the car, disconnect the fuel line, put a piece of rubber on it, or which I ran into a fuel can, and turned on the ignition, and had s STRONG flow of fuel......So success. Plugged the fuel line back in, and went to give it a shot.

Turned the car over and nothing just like before.........I was truly at a loss and didn't know what to do at this point. So i decided to do what I did last time to get the car to start.....Use the DSX kit, of which I did, and the car fired right up. I then let the car idle for about 20 seconds. Shut it off, put everything back to the way it should be, and tried it again......SUCCESS. I am guessing it must have been air in the fuel lines or something, but it started without issue.

Went ahead and through the bumper on.......I had to remove the Passenger side fog light due to a AN fitting that is in the way (I am going to have to go to a low profile one), and took it out for a very easy test drive. everything seems to be running OK (even though a little lean), but I am guessing that will get worked out in the tune, as Justin does his revisions. So the plan is to finish up the Tune and order the -AN low profile fitting that I need, and hopefully be rounds complete very soon.

I through up a quick video of it while I was letting it warm up in the garage (mostly trying to get all the air out of the radiator). A buddy of mine (actually one of my two NCOIC's that works for me), stopped by to hear it run.

Heres the link and I hope it works


Now I know that there is a check engine light on in the video. I believe that is from the Power steering plug came loose (probably from my struggles with the sway bar). I fixed that and the light went away. Also my aeroforce gauge isn't on as I have my AEM plugged into the port.

So what is left for the car.

1. Finish the Tune with Justin White
2. Use the TPMS tool to get rid of that stupid light
3. Order the low profile -AN fitting so I can put my fog light back in.

Probably will wait several months on the brake lines, hood, and D3 spoiler whom I got to find someone who is selling one......More than likely will be this winter, as i do want to actually enjoy the car this summer.

After I get the car cleaned up, I will throw some final pictures up for everyone to see.
 

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Congratulations on working through all of the issues and getting it chopping away! Can't wait to start my own teardown by this coming weekend.
 
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That's awesome that Adam's fuel hat mod works, and that the DSX pump primes. I am on the list for one and was hoping for an easy install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Random,
I couldn't be happier with it. No issues with it at all. As I mentioned, installation is a little tough, but other than that, it is superior to the stock part in every way


That's awesome that Adam's fuel hat mod works, and that the DSX pump primes. I am on the list for one and was hoping for an easy install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Another quick update.

Have been working with Justin White on the Tune. In fact stayed up until almost 0400 AM tuning the other night, and then got a quick nap and headed in for PT at 0630......That was an interesting day. None the less, we still have some work to do to nail down the E85 tune. Currently alone with my kids (twin 3 year olds) for the next few weeks while the wife takes a small vacation to visit her parents. So that means absolutely no tuning and very limited time in the garage.

However, when we were nailing down the 93 octane tune, the car pulls HARD. Still working on some idling issues that Justin attributes to the RPM intake.

We did have one small issue before he could start the tuning process. My E85 sensor was not working. Went through all of the trouble shooting steps.......Checking that it was in pin 5, that all connections were correct (kinda hard to mess this up as it is plug and play), and that the ground is correct. After checking everything and calling the guys at Glazner performance. We figured out that the connection that goes into the flex fuel sensor had the wires crossed. The power and the "pin 5" wire going into the sensor was switched. I flipped those two and all was well. Here is a picture of the plug.

I just flipped the red and blue wire and all fixed.




Back to the tuning issue and why Justin and I didn't just push through to completion. Honestly, I was planning to just skip PT and do just that to get the car finished. Spark plugs were the reason for the pause until after the wife gets back. I am currently running TR7's spark plugs. I left them at the factory gap when I installed them. To be truthful with you all, I didn't know to change them (completely my fault as I should have researched this). None the less, Justin informed me with the stock gap, I will more than likely blow the spark out with E85. I should close the gap to .030 for E85.

So the plan is to work on the car a little every evening when the kids go to bed to knock out the following tasks.

1. Change out that -16AN fitting to the low profile one so that I can have my fog light back. (I know its only a fog light, but it REALLY messing with my OCD)
2. Adjust my air filter up a little as it rubbing on the under tray a little.
3. I must have touched a headlight bulb (oil from fingers will blow a HID bulb fast) as my passenger side went out last night while tuning, so I will replace that while the bumper is off.
4. change the gap on the spark plugs......Justin gave me a link to do it, as the process is different than "regular" spark plugs being that they are Iridiums
5. Finish the tune here in a couple weeks with Justin
6. Throw the car on the same Dyno as before probably in the fall so that I can try to get close to the same conditions as before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 · (Edited)
Quick update and hopefully some information that might help someone reading this in the future.

Changed out that -12AN fitting (sorry I mis-spoke earlier when I mentioned -16), and all is well. I haven't placed the bumper back on as my replacement headlight just arrived yesterday evening, and I have VERY limited time to mess with the car due to my kids. Hopefully I will be able to get that done by this weekend.......hopefully

However, I did refill the intercooler system..... and as I mentioned earlier I had to reinstall that little plastic bleeder thing towards the rear of the engine, on the passenger side. Well I had the cap off when I turned on the ignition, and due to the volume of water that the re-programmed EMP can move, it completely overflowed that port........and of course at that very moment, I can't find the cap (which as I found out later was sitting on my supercharger lid). So as I frantically look for this cap for about 10-15 seconds, I ended up saying screw it and just turned off the ignition switch. During all of this I lost at least a quart of fluid, if not two, and basically gave my nice clean engine, a coolant bath.

So I did the only logical thing. Ran down to the local advanced auto, who just so happen to have the "gunk" engine cleaner on a 2 for 7 dollar deal. So I picked that up, removed the air filter, gave the engine a heavy coat of the Gunk stuff waited 30 minutes, and washed it all off with a free flowing hose. soaked up most of the water and it looks a million times better. Going to leave the car like this for a couple days (did the cleaning yesterday, and the soonest, I will do anything more with it is tomorrow to let everything dry out.

In addition, I found a tool that might be beneficial to others who are planning on using adams fuel lid. I am planing on installing a fuel filter kit (being that I am running E-85_ and while looking around for the best one to run. I stumbled across the fuel lid removal tool. As I mentioned earlier. Adam's lid is just a tad bigger than factor, which makes for a better seal. But what it also does is make it significantly harder to get the lock ring to "close". I had to let the car sit with the lid half installed for two weeks to finally get mine on. This tool should make easy work of both removing and installing the new lid. Instead of using a hammer and screwdriver or chisel like I did.

Part number is J-45722. Now the cheapest I found of the original tool is here

https://www.freedomracing.com/310-123-fuel-tank-sender-unit-wrench-j-45722-9340.html

and here

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6599-Universal-Fuel-Sender/dp/B000F5LJ7S

Now if you are really cheap, or need something very quickly. You have the below at advanced auto for around 25 dollars

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...Cja3MrHwU3Nmqh0Vc3kaAujNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

or even cheaper on amazon here.
https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Pump-Lo...t=&hvlocphy=9014716&hvtargid=pla-583635162147

In conclusion, I still have the below left to do with the car......added a few things as well.

1. Change the gap on the spark plugs
2. Install that headlight bulb
3. put the air filter back on
4. Going to plastic dip the fog light covers to match the two grills
5. Put the bumper back on
6. Use exhaust wrap on the exhaust(I am getting a little bit of rubbing/ rattling by the transmission cross member). I am just going to throw some exhaust wrap on it to quiet it down.
7. Still need to clearance those ground and pound turn downs.
8. Finish the tune with Justin(already got a tune date for the 19th of July). However, I might switch this to earlier depending on how things go.
9. Throw it on the dyno and see what it does.

Any guess on dyne numbers. You can use my baseline ones from before to come up with a good guess. I think my baseline ones are a little exaggerated (I don't think a bone stock CTS-V is going to put down 490 RWHP. but it is a "line in the sand". Based off that I am going to guess 720.
 

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*Just to clarify, the initial Fuel Hats were about .020" thicker on the sealing flange than the stock plastic, add in the increased friction with the anodized surface vs plastic, and locking the ring gets harder.

Since the first batch, this dimension has been updated to reflect the stock hat thickness, forgoing a little extra seal squeeze to mitigate install frustration.

The tool is still a good idea for anyone who plans to pull their fuel module a time or two, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Yeah, What Adam said lolol


*Just to clarify, the initial Fuel Hats were about .020" thicker on the sealing flange than the stock plastic, add in the increased friction with the anodized surface vs plastic, and locking the ring gets harder.

Since the first batch, this dimension has been updated to reflect the stock hat thickness, forgoing a little extra seal squeeze to mitigate install frustration.

The tool is still a good idea for anyone who plans to pull their fuel module a time or two, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
OK update time.

I got all of the spark plugs regapped. I noticed that I had a few burnt wires. Not burned through, but the rubber was definitely melted. I had to figure out something with the spark plug wire covers that I couldn't get over the boots earlier. I noticed that the covers got smaller at one end. So I did the only logical thing and cut it off. This worked out well, and the covers went on without issue, and I am confident that my wire burning issues are over. I went ahead and installed my head light bulb, and placed the air filter back on in a much better location. I also Plastic dipped the fog light covers and used the glossifier on it. So my upper grill, lower grill, and fog light covers all match. Lastly I placed the bumper back on, with it fitting much better now that things were "adjusted".

Other good news is that I was able to adjust my exhaust without having to use any wrap.

I was able to make my tuning session with Justin on 19July, and the WOT E85 tune is done. the car pulls HARD. I am really curious to see how it does on the dyno. HOWEVER, I still having one more tuning session with Justin. There are some very minor drivability issues that need to be worked out. For example, when pulling up to a red light/stop sign, the RPM searches and hangs sometimes. Justin mentioned that he would just like to live tune this, to clean up the last little bit. This was supposed to happen this past saturday (20July), but Justin had to cancel, because of issues with a car there in his shop. Hopefully, I will be able to get this squared away at some point this week.

One day this week (probably Wednesday 24July), I will see if I can get it on the same dyne as earlier and note the difference. Really curious to see how much power this car puts down. Any where in the 700-800 WHP range and I will happy.

Any one wants to take a guess on what power this car will put down. Scroll back up to see with it did in factory trim.

I am almost there, and only got a few last things to wrap up.

No pictures today, unless someone wants to see how I modified the spark plug covers. I also took a few pictures of each spark plug

Whats left.

1. Clean up the last few things on the tune with Justin
2. put it on the Dyno and see what it does
3. Clean up some of the butyl around my head lights to make it look a little cleaner.
4. Give the car a bath (don't think I have washed it in about a year lololol
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Update time. I have not had the opportunity yet to clean up the small issues I am having with drivability of the car yet. The issues are not really that serious and honestly, the tune is mostly solid as it sits.

I did however, made it to the Dyno on the 24th as discussed and I had some issues. The car was breaking up really bad once the Dyno operator went WOT. To the point where he aborted a few of the runs. So I stupidly forgot to bring my cable and laptop so that I could log the car and send it to Justin. However, I was able to borrow one from the shop owner. So we did a couple pulls to log the car. I needed to get something as it wasn't breaking up at all under very light throttle and idle. So after getting in a full pull breaking up the whole way, I had a log to work off of. The car even on 7 cylinders made decent power. THE CAR MADE 810 HP on seven cylinders. The first thing that popped into my head is that this dyno seemed high for when I did my base pulls (495), but these numbers are a little crazy. Here a scanned copy of that pull



So I then sent that log off to Justin, and he says it looks like a cracked spark plug on the Passenger side. I decided to just go ahead and replace them all on the passenger side as he was not able to narrow it down to one. When I pulled the spark plugs, I could not find any cracks at all. However, I did fine a couple of spark plug wires that would not "snap" in. I "think" I had identified the issue because when I pulled them off the spark plugs initially, they came off really easily. I had every intention of going out this morning(27July) and getting a fresh set of wires. But I ended up reaching out to "MYV" (a forum member here that is local) , and he just so happened to have some spare wires laying around. I ended up replacing the wires (and the plugs) on the passenger side and went out for a few pulls. the car was pulling MUCH harder. Probably the hardest since I got it back on the road.

This afternoon(27July), we had a cars and coffee event with a mobile dyno. Why not throw it on and see what she does, not that she is running better. (other than those few drivability issues). So first thing first........Wash the car (it really really needed a washing), and linked up with MYV and another buddy in a TrailBlazer SS and headed to the event. Through it on the dyno, and I was honestly expecting mid 700's as that was my initial goal when i started. Plus it was extremely hot today with temps in the upper 80's/low 90's. Did my pulls and I got 847.2 for horsepower and 843.6 for torque on the first pull and I only took it up to 5600 RPM. WHICH MEANS THERE WAS MORE ON THE TABLE. It only went down hill from there due to heat soak and he didn't have a adequate fan for cooling and a very short time between pulls. Heres a quick picture of the screen. He is going to email me the dyno pull in the next few days.





I am EXTREMELY happy with how the car did. I still intend on taking it back to the original dyno as he offered me three free pulls because of all the issues that I was having. I also noticed that I haven't posted any pictures of the finished car since I got it back on the road. Here are a few for your viewing pleasure.







 

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Update time. I have not had the opportunity yet to clean up the small issues I am having with drivability of the car yet. The issues are not really that serious and honestly, the tune is mostly solid as it sits.

I did however, made it to the Dyno on the 24th as discussed and I had some issues. The car was breaking up really bad once the Dyno operator went WOT. To the point where he aborted a few of the runs. So I stupidly forgot to bring my cable and laptop so that I could log the car and send it to Justin. However, I was able to borrow one from the shop owner. So we did a couple pulls to log the car. I needed to get something as it wasn't breaking up at all under very light throttle and idle. So after getting in a full pull breaking up the whole way, I had a log to work off of. The car even on 7 cylinders made decent power. THE CAR MADE 810 HP on seven cylinders. The first thing that popped into my head is that this dyno seemed high for when I did my base pulls (495), but these numbers are a little crazy. Here a scanned copy of that pull



So I then sent that log off to Justin, and he says it looks like a cracked spark plug on the Passenger side. I decided to just go ahead and replace them all on the passenger side as he was not able to narrow it down to one. When I pulled the spark plugs, I could not find any cracks at all. However, I did fine a couple of spark plug wires that would not "snap" in. I "think" I had identified the issue because when I pulled them off the spark plugs initially, they came off really easily. I had every intention of going out this morning(27July) and getting a fresh set of wires. But I ended up reaching out to "MYV" (a forum member here that is local) , and he just so happened to have some spare wires laying around. I ended up replacing the wires (and the plugs) on the passenger side and went out for a few pulls. the car was pulling MUCH harder. Probably the hardest since I got it back on the road.

This afternoon(27July), we had a cars and coffee event with a mobile dyno. Why not throw it on and see what she does, not that she is running better. (other than those few drivability issues). So first thing first........Wash the car (it really really needed a washing), and linked up with MYV and another buddy in a TrailBlazer SS and headed to the event. Through it on the dyno, and I was honestly expecting mid 700's as that was my initial goal when i started. Plus it was extremely hot today with temps in the upper 80's/low 90's. Did my pulls and I got 847.2 for horsepower and 843.6 for torque on the first pull and I only took it up to 5600 RPM. WHICH MEANS THERE WAS MORE ON THE TABLE. It only went down hill from there due to heat soak and he didn't have a adequate fan for cooling and a very short time between pulls. Heres a quick picture of the screen. He is going to email me the dyno pull in the next few days.





I am EXTREMELY happy with how the car did. I still intend on taking it back to the original dyno as he offered me three free pulls because of all the issues that I was having. I also noticed that I haven't posted any pictures of the finished car since I got it back on the road. Here are a few for your viewing pleasure.







Pumped to read this Shaddrick. Hope you’re enjoying it. Glad the setup is working for you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Adam,
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. It goes to show you that your fuel lid WORKS. I had rock solid fuel pressure with zero issues since I have installed your lid.....

Update time. I have not had the opportunity yet to clean up the small issues I am having with drivability of the car yet. The issues are not really that serious and honestly, the tune is mostly solid as it sits.

I did however, made it to the Dyno on the 24th as discussed and I had some issues. The car was breaking up really bad once the Dyno operator went WOT. To the point where he aborted a few of the runs. So I stupidly forgot to bring my cable and laptop so that I could log the car and send it to Justin. However, I was able to borrow one from the shop owner. So we did a couple pulls to log the car. I needed to get something as it wasn't breaking up at all under very light throttle and idle. So after getting in a full pull breaking up the whole way, I had a log to work off of. The car even on 7 cylinders made decent power. THE CAR MADE 810 HP on seven cylinders. The first thing that popped into my head is that this dyno seemed high for when I did my base pulls (495), but these numbers are a little crazy. Here a scanned copy of that pull



So I then sent that log off to Justin, and he says it looks like a cracked spark plug on the Passenger side. I decided to just go ahead and replace them all on the passenger side as he was not able to narrow it down to one. When I pulled the spark plugs, I could not find any cracks at all. However, I did fine a couple of spark plug wires that would not "snap" in. I "think" I had identified the issue because when I pulled them off the spark plugs initially, they came off really easily. I had every intention of going out this morning(27July) and getting a fresh set of wires. But I ended up reaching out to "MYV" (a forum member here that is local) , and he just so happened to have some spare wires laying around. I ended up replacing the wires (and the plugs) on the passenger side and went out for a few pulls. the car was pulling MUCH harder. Probably the hardest since I got it back on the road.

This afternoon(27July), we had a cars and coffee event with a mobile dyno. Why not throw it on and see what she does, not that she is running better. (other than those few drivability issues). So first thing first........Wash the car (it really really needed a washing), and linked up with MYV and another buddy in a TrailBlazer SS and headed to the event. Through it on the dyno, and I was honestly expecting mid 700's as that was my initial goal when i started. Plus it was extremely hot today with temps in the upper 80's/low 90's. Did my pulls and I got 847.2 for horsepower and 843.6 for torque on the first pull and I only took it up to 5600 RPM. WHICH MEANS THERE WAS MORE ON THE TABLE. It only went down hill from there due to heat soak and he didn't have a adequate fan for cooling and a very short time between pulls. Heres a quick picture of the screen. He is going to email me the dyno pull in the next few days.





I am EXTREMELY happy with how the car did. I still intend on taking it back to the original dyno as he offered me three free pulls because of all the issues that I was having. I also noticed that I haven't posted any pictures of the finished car since I got it back on the road. Here are a few for your viewing pleasure.







Pumped to read this Shaddrick. Hope you’re enjoying it. Glad the setup is working for you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
hello all, I know it has been a while since I last updated this thread. But I feel like its time since there has been some things that have happened. First and foremost, I still have the car and it will not be going anywhere. However, I have been re-assigned to Italy again for at least three years, and thus the car has gone back into storage, along with all of the other cars. The car still had a very few issues that I will describe below.

1. The hood rubbed on the ZL1 Lid. I think that this is because of the creative steel engine mounts. As described in other threads. It seems like it raise the engine, just enough to cause an issue. My Lid was shaved, but it wasn't enough. The plan is to get a Weapon X hood upon my return in three years (hopefully) to America.


2. I have an issue with high AIT2's. Which I think is because of one of the extreme angle elbows that I have coming off of my EMP pump. For example, in 80ish degree heat, I was crossing the traps in the quarter in the 140-150's.....Far outside of my comfort range, and I was getting some very light knock on those runs. When I get back, I am going to switch over to a trunk tank, which will help "straighten" out the lines and increase volume substantially and lower my temps.

3. One other issue that I ran into happened as I was preparing to PCS to Italy. As I prepared, I obviously started switching the car back to 93 from E85. With each tank of 93 that I put, the car progressively ran worse and worse. It would buck and surged whenever cruising, and have significant backfires when off the throttle/coasting. It seemed as if it was getting way to much fuel, as it acted very similar to how it did during the tuning process. I could only assume that Justin White never completely tuned it while on 93 (before he instructed me to dump in 93). I started this process back in January (switching over to 93), as it takes several tanks to get all the E85 out. I furthermore reached out to Justin, he instructed me to send him a pull, which I did. I followed up with him several times over about two months, and he was not able to make time to revise my tune. So I had to put the car into storage as it sat. In case you were wondering, why I was so adamant about cleaning up the tune before it went into storage, is that it will help with trouble shooting on the backend. I don't expect to have any issues, but if I do, having a solid tune, will eliminate one variable. Not sure of the plan with this one, but I will take care of it when I get back.

So future plans for the car. By the time I get back, the Kong 2650 will be fully tested and vested. I will more than likely build an engine for the car that will be capable of handling everything that that 2650 can push (a 427 sounds nice), and in fact, hav already started talking to engine builders. With that, I know that I am going to have to do something about fuel as well. Probably FORE will get the nod on this one.

So, that begs the million dollar question. What am I going to do with the 12,000 mile LSA thats sits between the frame rails right now. Well, I also have a 93 Camaro RS, that has a LS1 swap already. I think I am going to put this LSA into that car as it currently sits. 800+ will do nicely in a third Gen.

As always, here are a few pictures of the car that I took a few weeks ago before putting it into storage. For the folks who might be reading this that are local to Clarksville, TN should know exactly where this is. The car is also fairly dirty as well. I did spray it off, but it is far from clean.........I did clean it before putting it into storage though.











And lastly, here is the car in the storage unit......In the same bag it was in before. Except for this time, the car has a few stable mates. In the unit from rear to front starting in the rear left as you are looking at it are.

1987 Austin Mini 1993 Checrolet Camaro (the one with the LS1 swap)
1964 1/2 Ford Mustang 1993 Ford Mustang GT (this one is getting a Coyote when I get back)
ZX14/M109R/GSXR750(motorcycles) 2012 Cadillac CTS-V (had just over 12,000 miles when put into storage)

Here are a few pictures of all that









In conclusion, just as I did the last time I was in Italy and purchased the mini and did a rebuild of that. This time I would REALLY like to get into a R34. The problem is that they must be 25 years or older when I leave. So, I am way to close for comfort to purchase a car that I might not be able to bring back.......However, I am looking at options ;););)
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Hello all,
I think it is time for an update on the car, as there have been a few things that has happened. Let's go back to when I left for Italy.

A few issues that I had before I left, and I can't remember if I mentioned them or not. But my IAT2’s were through the roof at the top of the quarter. Obviously pulling a lot of timing. I had to leave for Italy before I could address it and the car went into storage.

I also was not very happy with the “tesla screen” as it's slow and a little buggy.

And lastly, the tune was never finished by Justin White. I am not trying to speak badly about anyone but he kind of ghosted me. At the time he had missed 4-5 appointments that I set up with him to finish my tune, and I HAD to put the car into storage and leave for Italy. WOT was excellent…..it was everything else that was the issue.

So fast forward to OCT 2021, and I am now stationed in Fort Leonard wood, Missouri. If you have ever found yourself in this part of the country, I think it is fair to say that it is two hours from literally everything.

So I make the trip back to Tennessee to grab the Cadillac using a U-Haul and trailer. Upon my arrival back here in Missouri, I realized that I had torn the fuel line for my DSX Aux fuel kit.

After that the car sat for a year untouched with a car cover over it until about a month or two ago…

So I headed over to DSX tuning (who happens to be two hours away in St. Louis) and purchased a new fuel line. While I was there, I got a new controller as well (my kit is several years old. No pictures, but I installed it without issues. Picked up a higher-flowing pump from Amazon as well.

So here is the plan for the next several months with the car.

To fix my cooling issues, I am going with a trunk tank and relocate the reprogrammed EMP to the back bumper as well. I think my cooling issues stem from that sharp angle of the EMP pump in the stock location. Also, more volume won’t hurt either. The trunk tank that I will use is the one from DMS, along with their pump relocation bracket.

Will hit up a local exhaust shop and get a custom exhaust built as I can’t use the OEM one with the EMP back there.

Going to go with a Weaponx sleeper hood. With my engine mounts and the ZL1 lid. My stock hood ever so slightly touches the top of the lid.

My two-step is currently wired into a switch that I built into the cigarette lighter port. I plan to change this. I have already purchased a steering wheel for an automatic car, that has the shifter buttons. I intend to wire one of those buttons into my two-step (probably the driver’s side). I haven’t even begun to figure out the wiring for those buttons, but I feel they should be simple……. Fully admitting that I could be very very wrong.

I have new wheels for the car that I need to purchase tires for. They are definitely “street” wheels and not for tracking or “playing”.

Last but not least is straightening out the tune. The car will be going to DSX for tuning. Probably will be the last thing I do as the car runs……just not as good as I would like it too.

Also, will probably knock out other little small things along the way as well. For example, I don’t really like my catch can setup, so I will change that at some point. And that Tesla screen has to go.

The car has been a long time coming and is probably one of the lowest mileage V’s in the country as the military keeps me from truly enjoying the car. As it sits right now, it still has the stock wheels and tires on it and it has 12,xxx miles on it……I know it doesn’t seem like it, but I really intend to finish this car and actually drive and enjoy it.

Stay tuned for more updates on what is truly turning out to be an extremely long build. I think I started all of this in 2014 or so….and I had the car for two years already then lolol.
 

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You should read up on getting the hood in a timely manner.
 
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Havent seen anything on it.....But also really havent been looking. Based on your note, is it on a long back order or something
Extremely long is one way that people have expressed it. Vlad has picked up many new customers for his hood.
 
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