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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Update time....

Got a lot done since I last posted.

Received my Blower in from Jokerz, and I can't be happier with it. I went with the "full tilt" version which is basically everything that he offers at this point including the runners. Went with a 2.45 upper pulley which should compliment my lower pulley nicely. Also once this came in, I had to stop everything else with the car and install this, so I adjusted the schedule a little to get this on the car. threw in the ID1300's since I am going E85 and proceeded to put it in the vehicle without issue other than the electronics on the fuel injectors seemed like they didn't want to click/snap in. The only thing that I had to do was take off the alignment pin as my new heads didn't have the provisions for it.

Well, since I was already dealing with the top of the engine, I decided to just keep going with it. I managed to borrow a push rod checker from a buddy, and all is well. Since I was there I re-watched that video that Rubber Duck posted to see if I had correct degree. I tried a few of the rockers and they all seem to be spot on to me.

After this I decided to go ahead and throw on the valve covers......No issues there other that the filler thing for oil.....That things a bitch going off and putting back on. I was more afraid that I was going to break it more than anything else.

Then I moved on to the spark plugs and the first issue arose. First, let me start off by saying that I am not sure how anyone could change spark plugs on this vehicle with the stock manifolds, as I was struggling with Headers. I "almost" called the wife for assistance as her hands are much smaller than mine, but decided against that course of action. None the less all went well on the drivers side......All good on the passenger side too until I got to the very back spark plug. I could thread it in ok.....bu for some reason I could get a spark plug socket on it.....It wasn't that I could get the socket to the spark plug.....It just wouldn't go onto the spark plug. I spent about a hour trying to figure out what I was doing wrong, until I realized that there was something protruding over the spark plug hole slightly.........Yeap.......Installed the header gasket backwards.........Said a few choice words, and started the tear down of the exhaust. I hoped that I could just take off the header WITHOUT removing the rest of the exhaust. Flip the gasket and be done with it. Even with all the nuts removed from the studs, the header was on there TIGHT. ended up dropping the entire exhaust. flipped it over and spark plug went in without issue.

Went ahead and buttoned up the rest of the stuff on the valve covers which are the coils and such. One thing I did notice is when I installed the wires onto the spark plugs, they are touching the headers. There isn't a lot of adjustment down there, so I have some spark plug heat protectors that I will throw on before I plug these into the coils.

Also got the cat back (stock mufflers) cut and installed onto the rest of the exhaust. For me this was the hardest part of the exhaust.......I just couldn't get anything to line up correctly. So, four hours later and the use of three ratchet straps the cat back is in.

I picked up the rest of my stuff from the powder coater and it looks amazing. I went with a black that is very similar to the black diamond on the exterior. Also had the silver part on the Zl1 lid matched to the valve cover. Had a "V" emblem welded onto the strut tower brace and powder coated the same black as the ZL1 lid. Lastly, I have a RPM 5 inch intake that I had done in the same black color. I threw everything on except for the intake. I still need to cut down my coupler as it is a little long.

Also went ahead and put on the 102 MM Nick Williams throttle body. I am using a metal gasket with O ring that I bought from a company on Facebook. Very high quality and allows me not to use gasket maker. Also installed my flex fuel sensor underneath the hood. No issues other than pinning the ECU. It is a very thin wire that you have to put in there and I couldn't really tell if it was fully seated as there was not an audible click or anything. I gave the wire a gentle tug and it didn't come out, so I am going to call that good.

So out of my last note, I accomplished one of the three tasks that I mentioned lol, by getting the exhaust one.

For tomorrow, I am going to continue with fuel and the DSX aux pump kit. I am going a little bit different route with it, and I know there are a few folks waiting to see how it goes for me.

After I wrap up fuel, I will only have the following left

1.Wire EMP pump
2. Mesure, cut, and install AN fittings
3. put in dip stick
4. Fix my windshield wiper situation ( I have a plan thats coming)
5. Trim my bumper to make room for the Vadder front mount (this will be after the car is running though)
6.Install Innovate Wide Band

Getting fairly close now.....On to some pictures but not a whole lot to show other than what is already all over the forums











Here are the spark plugs that I am running





And A few of my pulley





And here is how the car sits now.







 

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Chief you doing a outstanding build over there well documented.

You are motivating me for a small build on my Champ.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Thanks Wilson......

Update time....

Got a lot done since I last posted.

Received my Blower in from Jokerz, and I can't be happier with it. I went with the "full tilt" version which is basically everything that he offers at this point including the runners. Went with a 2.45 upper pulley which should compliment my lower pulley nicely. Also once this came in, I had to stop everything else with the car and install this, so I adjusted the schedule a little to get this on the car. threw in the ID1300's since I am going E85 and proceeded to put it in the vehicle without issue other than the electronics on the fuel injectors seemed like they didn't want to click/snap in. The only thing that I had to do was take off the alignment pin as my new heads didn't have the provisions for it.

Well, since I was already dealing with the top of the engine, I decided to just keep going with it. I managed to borrow a push rod checker from a buddy, and all is well. Since I was there I re-watched that video that Rubber Duck posted to see if I had correct degree. I tried a few of the rockers and they all seem to be spot on to me.

After this I decided to go ahead and throw on the valve covers......No issues there other that the filler thing for oil.....That things a bitch going off and putting back on. I was more afraid that I was going to break it more than anything else.

Then I moved on to the spark plugs and the first issue arose. First, let me start off by saying that I am not sure how anyone could change spark plugs on this vehicle with the stock manifolds, as I was struggling with Headers. I "almost" called the wife for assistance as her hands are much smaller than mine, but decided against that course of action. None the less all went well on the drivers side......All good on the passenger side too until I got to the very back spark plug. I could thread it in ok.....bu for some reason I could get a spark plug socket on it.....It wasn't that I could get the socket to the spark plug.....It just wouldn't go onto the spark plug. I spent about a hour trying to figure out what I was doing wrong, until I realized that there was something protruding over the spark plug hole slightly.........Yeap.......Installed the header gasket backwards.........Said a few choice words, and started the tear down of the exhaust. I hoped that I could just take off the header WITHOUT removing the rest of the exhaust. Flip the gasket and be done with it. Even with all the nuts removed from the studs, the header was on there TIGHT. ended up dropping the entire exhaust. flipped it over and spark plug went in without issue.

Went ahead and buttoned up the rest of the stuff on the valve covers which are the coils and such. One thing I did notice is when I installed the wires onto the spark plugs, they are touching the headers. There isn't a lot of adjustment down there, so I have some spark plug heat protectors that I will throw on before I plug these into the coils.

Also got the cat back (stock mufflers) cut and installed onto the rest of the exhaust. For me this was the hardest part of the exhaust.......I just couldn't get anything to line up correctly. So, four hours later and the use of three ratchet straps the cat back is in.

I picked up the rest of my stuff from the powder coater and it looks amazing. I went with a black that is very similar to the black diamond on the exterior. Also had the silver part on the Zl1 lid matched to the valve cover. Had a "V" emblem welded onto the strut tower brace and powder coated the same black as the ZL1 lid. Lastly, I have a RPM 5 inch intake that I had done in the same black color. I threw everything on except for the intake. I still need to cut down my coupler as it is a little long.

Also went ahead and put on the 102 MM Nick Williams throttle body. I am using a metal gasket with O ring that I bought from a company on Facebook. Very high quality and allows me not to use gasket maker. Also installed my flex fuel sensor underneath the hood. No issues other than pinning the ECU. It is a very thin wire that you have to put in there and I couldn't really tell if it was fully seated as there was not an audible click or anything. I gave the wire a gentle tug and it didn't come out, so I am going to call that good.

So out of my last note, I accomplished one of the three tasks that I mentioned lol, by getting the exhaust one.

For tomorrow, I am going to continue with fuel and the DSX aux pump kit. I am going a little bit different route with it, and I know there are a few folks waiting to see how it goes for me.

After I wrap up fuel, I will only have the following left

1.Wire EMP pump
2. Mesure, cut, and install AN fittings
3. put in dip stick
4. Fix my windshield wiper situation ( I have a plan thats coming)
5. Trim my bumper to make room for the Vadder front mount (this will be after the car is running though)
6.Install Innovate Wide Band

Getting fairly close now.....On to some pictures but not a whole lot to show other than what is already all over the forums











Here are the spark plugs that I am running





And A few of my pulley





And here is how the car sits now.







 

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Chief you doing a outstanding build over there well documented.

You are motivating me for a small build on my Champ.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
He's so good, I think I can just skip my own future build thread! I somehow feel... unneeded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 · (Edited)
Random, I think thats a little far lololol......Honestly, I am just stumbling my way through this with a heavy coat of Attention To Detail with resilience sprinkled on top. The veterans around here like you, Rubber Duck, and a few select others led the way. Without the hard work that you all put in. I would not have had a "template" to work off of. I am simply taking all of the different tutorials and lessons learned, and rolling them all into one.......mostly....while posting up mistakes that I made (like that sway bar and Header Gasket for example), to hopefully "pay it forward"

Speaking of that, one issue that has been bugging me since last night is that I am not confident that the # 5 pin for the Flex fuel is fully seated......Does anyone know of a way to test it.



He's so good, I think I can just skip my own future build thread! I somehow feel... unneeded.
 

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He's so good, I think I can just skip my own future build thread! I somehow feel... unneeded.
He understands the difference between a meaningfull automotive thread with pictures and pictures of a ‘Crapper’.:p
 

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A lot of work you have going at once.....and cash pouring out! Nice job man!
Two things:
1) When you drill the gas tank for the Aux Pump kit fitting. Don't tap it too far!! Even with the tape line on Dave's provided tap it was really too much and almost ran out of thread when tightening. The tank is very thin so it only "bites" on about 3 threads.
The fitting is tapered so it self tightens at whatever depth. Give some wiggle room to tighten more or re-tap.
2) Sorry, but the sway bar WILL squeak in about 3k miles. I used the same kit and grease-free bushings.
Both sides were squeaking staring a couple weeks ago and got worse. I actually think it was the inside of the bushing rubbing against the metal stop ring welded on the bar. I actually took mine out today and greased that side of the bushing as well as everything else. Didn't want to risk testing it again and a possible 3rd time. Should be good to go now, but a PITA once again. Bar does not need to be removed just the couple bolts holding it down in place and slide them out.

Post a video of the final engine bay and it running....and power level you're at. Keep up the good work.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Cadattac,
Thanks for the kind words.

1. I have no intentions of drilling the tank.....As I mentioned earlier, I got something a little bit different. Hopefully, I will get to work on the car tonight and can post up what I bought, and what I did.

2. I kinda figured the same. Thats why I greased it as if that felt was there. Hopefully.....and I AM REALLY HOPEFUL that I don't get any squeaks.


A lot of work you have going at once.....and cash pouring out! Nice job man!
Two things:
1) When you drill the gas tank for the Aux Pump kit fitting. Don't tap it too far!! Even with the tape line on Dave's provided tap it was really too much and almost ran out of thread when tightening. The tank is very thin so it only "bites" on about 3 threads.
The fitting is tapered so it self tightens at whatever depth. Give some wiggle room to tighten more or re-tap.
2) Sorry, but the sway bar WILL squeak in about 3k miles. I used the same kit and grease-free bushings.
Both sides were squeaking staring a couple weeks ago and got worse. I actually think it was the inside of the bushing rubbing against the metal stop ring welded on the bar. I actually took mine out today and greased that side of the bushing as well as everything else. Didn't want to risk testing it again and a possible 3rd time. Should be good to go now, but a PITA once again. Bar does not need to be removed just the couple bolts holding it down in place and slide them out.

Post a video of the final engine bay and it running....and power level you're at. Keep up the good work.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Joined
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A lot of work you have going at once.....and cash pouring out! Nice job man!
Two things:
1) When you drill the gas tank for the Aux Pump kit fitting. Don't tap it too far!! Even with the tape line on Dave's provided tap it was really too much and almost ran out of thread when tightening. The tank is very thin so it only "bites" on about 3 threads.
The fitting is tapered so it self tightens at whatever depth. Give some wiggle room to tighten more or re-tap.
2) Sorry, but the sway bar WILL squeak in about 3k miles. I used the same kit and grease-free bushings.
Both sides were squeaking staring a couple weeks ago and got worse. I actually think it was the inside of the bushing rubbing against the metal stop ring welded on the bar. I actually took mine out today and greased that side of the bushing as well as everything else. Didn't want to risk testing it again and a possible 3rd time. Should be good to go now, but a PITA once again. Bar does not need to be removed just the couple bolts holding it down in place and slide them out.

Post a video of the final engine bay and it running....and power level you're at. Keep up the good work.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I know a Cunt who is working on a modified billet fuel hat that will house the OEM pumps and provide a third accessory for an Aux pump - the whole point being no drilling the tank. It's a slick setup, but obviously needs some testing to make sure it works properly. We are all waiting with baited breath!
 

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Hi RKT

What a Great build to have followed...even for me! And the notes you wrote out in detail and the photos so clear.
Just a Big THANKYOU! ...and those Red Valve Covers!! lol, I wish I had. You have a Beautiful engine bay!
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Caddy5,
Thanks for the kind words. I try to explain what I am doing and seeing as I go along. This forum has helped me so much through the years and most of the people that have helped don't know it. I figured the least I could do is try to give back.

Speaking of giving back.....I started the fuel hat tonight, but haven't finished it yet....... There is Some Good, Some Bad, and some Ugly lololol. As I have done throughout this thread. I will not hide any mistakes that I made along the way, as hopefully they might help someone else. Probably will do a write up tomorrow on what I have done so far as it is a little late here, and I have been inhaling gas fumes for the last several hours.....


Hi RKT

What a Great build to have followed...even for me! And the notes you wrote out in detail and the photos so clear.
Just a Big THANKYOU! ...and those Red Valve Covers!! lol, I wish I had. You have a Beautiful engine bay!
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Update time.

Moved on to the fuel stuff as I discussed yesterday (actually it was early this morning). I bought a fuel hat on Facebook from a member here. The reason for the purchase is two fold for me. One is that it eliminates that crap elbow that the factory hat has with a bigger one that isn't prone to cracking or leaking. Two he added an additional port that will be used for the DSX kit, which as I mentioned in this thread earlier. I have no intentions of drilling a hole in my tank (but ironically I am ok with cutting a gapping hole underneath the rear seat.......go figure). None the less, I will be going into much more detail as I work through switching out the fuel hat. But for now, here are a few pictures of what I am working with.

The full kit



This is what will be going into the tank as the fuel pick up



Bottom of the hat



Top of the hat



Both hats together



Factory hat



Replacement hat



Got the rest seat out which I won't discuss here (unless someone wants me too) as its simple. I purchased the access hole plate kit, which came with awesome instructions on where to cut. I followed the old Mantra of measure twice and cut once. However, I probably measured someone in the neighborhood of 15-20 and sorta cut once. How I made my cuts is by using masking tape to cover the entire area. This should help to cut down on sparks and little chunks of metal ruining my window tint and interior. Also used a permanent marker to mark where the cuts need to happen. I also took all of the measurements in the kit and took off a half inch........Just in case. I can always cut away more metal, but its kinda difficult to put it back. I also test fit the kit and I have plenty of space with my marked cuts. Heres a quick picture of the kit in case anyone needs them














As I mentioned there is some good, some bad, and some down right ugly. I will explain in the reverse of that order.......Because lets face it....The Ugly and the Bad is what most folks really care about lolol.

The Ugly------------I knicked the fucking fuel line. Not only did this piss me off, but I could have very easy burned down the car, garage, house, and most importantly my family sleeping upstairs. Let me break down what I did and how this happened. So after spending several hours researching the cuts. I KNEW that they had to be very very shall. Less than an inch or so through the metal. So what I did is I keep an old cut off wheel from my grinder. so it was already really short (hope that makes sense). I then took a paint marker, and made a few dots about a inch in on the disc. Just like with anything else that you spin fast, it would appear to be a solid line, thus giving me a marker on my wheel of how deep to cut. Perfect situation right.........So I go forth with this....Make it all the way down one side.....I am doing the drivers side moving from the rear of the car going forward if that makes since....No issues so far......Then I go to make the cut running from the drivers side to the passenger side. As soon as I get through the metal, I am hit with the unmistakeable smell of gasoline and what appears to be oil (its gas). I immediately grabbed a wet beach towel that had sitting in a bucket right outside of the car.....just in case, and threw it over the hole........There WAS NOT any fire. It was just a precaution just in case. At this point I was extremely frustrated and not sure where I went wrong. Furthermore, at this point I am way to far into this to turn back now...Plus, there is no way, I wanted to drop the entire sub-frame to get to the fuel hat. So I do the only logical thing in mind....Which is proceed WITHOUT the Cut off wheel. So I break out the snippers and get to it......two hours later and some very sore hands, I know have a hole with a hole that is very clean on one side and less than half of another and "dirty" for a lack of better terms on the other 2 3/4 sides. (I already have a plan for how I am going to fix this later). By finally getting the hole cut it allowed me to see where and how I went wrong. I believe that it was a manufacturing mistake that had no consequences unless you were trying to cut a hole similar to me...lololol. The line was tucked solid between the tank and the body of the car. There should have been at least an inch of space or so......but there wasn't. Bottom line, there was nothing I could have done differently to avoid cutting that line. I didn't cut it clean through and it only has an 1/8 to 1/4 inch gash. The only redeeming thing here is that the line is pretty easy to replace. I have already posted all over Facebook asking if anyone has one that they are looking to get rid of. I have already acquired the part number to purchase. Hind site being 20/20. I should have went and bought either an air or electric nibbler and been done with it.

The bad----------nothing really to add here as my "ugly" was enough to cover both....lololol

The Good--------The fuel hat is amazing from Adam. He including every part that you will need to get this done. In fact, I would say that it is comparable to the DSX kit in completeness and quality. It is seriously that good. The only ding that I could say right now, and I know that he is working to alleviate, is that it doesn't come with any instructions. I called him about this, in addition to that line I cut earlier, and he was more than helpful on both accounts. He furthermore sent me the link to a video, and I will probably go into much more detail here as I install the fuel hat as mentioned earlier (will also make a new thread so its easier to find as well) I had a few questions and he promptly answered them with a return phone call......on a Sunday.

So whats coming next. Since my leave has ended, I will be back to working on the car mostly on the weekend. However, this upcoming weekend I have a four day. I will more than likely work on this fuel hat a little each day throughout the week. So hopefully by Thursday night, I will have a new fuel line and a fuel hat that I will have setup to install. Next update will be this weekend.
 

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I wanted to take all the credits for Adam's ingenuity- but I'll let you be the Guinea pig for now. But let me give you this one piece of advice:

Stop cutting fuel lines with electric tools.

Seriously, that's bad.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I wanted to take all the credits for Adam's ingenuity- but I'll let you be the Guinea pig for now. But let me give you this one piece of advice:

Stop cutting fuel lines with electric tools.

Seriously, that's bad.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Should we just call him 'Sparky'..:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Thank you Cpt. Obvious lolololol.......Trust me it wasn't my intention to cut any fuel lines........but as the old saying goes shit happens. Luckily its a fairly easy repair.....Just unhook the line and put an OEM one in its place.


I wanted to take all the credits for Adam's ingenuity- but I'll let you be the Guinea pig for now. But let me give you this one piece of advice:

Stop cutting fuel lines with electric tools.

Seriously, that's bad.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I recommend the use of one of these, in an air chisel of course. Pilot hole in the Aft, outboard corner of the patch. Dont use an eager bit and a ton of pressure, it will bust right through the sheet metal and tank in a jiffy!! There are also wires in that vicinity, but it gives the most tank clearance, so reference available pics for wiring as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Everyone, sorry for not updating this post..... Nothing catastrophic has happened with the car Lolol..... It's just that I am off doing work stuff and I tend not to post that stuff here...... Or anywhere on the internet, because of OPSEC reasons. However, I will be back at it here in the very near future (a few more weeks or so)
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 · (Edited)
Time for an update.

on 13June, I returned from my government sponsored trip up to Ft. Drum and got to spend a little time working on the car almost every day since them with the exception of most of Saturday and all of Sunday (being Fathers day and all). But none the less, I got just about everything done and am not ready to start the car. Here is everything that was left, and a few other small issues that I ran into.

First thing I did, when I returned was jump straight into the fuel situation. I was anxious to get this wrapped up. As I mentioned earlier, Adam's lid is about a cunt hair thicker than the stock plastic one (see what I did there), and so with that it is much tighter fit than stock, and a little more difficult to spin into place. Before leaving for Drum, I had it to within about a half inch of being seated. Adam had already informed me that it will get a little easier over time, so I said screw it and let it sit (with that half inch to go) while I was gone. Hoping that a few weeks under tension would loosen things up a little and I could "drive er home". Well I am happy to report that this worked and it is now fully seated. After that, I went ahead and threw in the new fuel line which cost me in the neighborhood of $150 dollars. This ladies and gentlemen, is a monopolized part at its best. Once you hold this part in your hand, it is a struggle to understand, how GM came up with such an asinine price for about a foot of metal tube with a splash of rubber hose and a sensor on one end. I was almost as disgusted with the price of the hose, as I was that I cut it in the first place. The good news is that it was extremely easy to install.

SEE POST 146 FOR THE TOOL TO HELP REMOVE AND INSTALL THE FUEL LID

Moving on to why I got Adam's lid in the first place is because of the extra port that I used for the DSX kit (i REALLY DID NOT want to drill a hole in my fuel tank). This thing worked out beautifully. I couldn't be happier with it. The one additional part that I did have to buy was a -6AN elbow. You can screw the DSX kit in, but it sits at an angle that you do not want. I should have taken a picture of this, but in my haste to be done, I didn't. So no pictures of this one. But if you can imagine the lid from earlier with a -6AN elbow on it, attached to the DSX line that normally goes to the tank.

So after wrapping up the fuel system, I decided to go ahead and turn on the ignition and check for fuel leaks. Success as there were no drips from any injectors or any lines. Also went ahead and check the DSX AUX kit next by unplugging it from the MAP sensor and plugging it into what ever the sensor in front of that one is called (the name escapes me at the moment). This sensor turns on the DSX kit when you turn on the ignition....It runs constantly, and you only use it for testing purposes of the pump. So upon testing the kit, I had a massive leak right at the DSX Pump. It only required a additional 1/2 turn and all was good. I know that AN fittings are really low for torque settings, and I tried to put all of them around 20ish pounds based on feel. But I gotta tell you that DSX pump can move some fuel in a hurry. In the 10 seconds or so from when I turned on the ignition, got out of the car, looked underneath it to the water fall of fuel, and turned off the ignition, I probably lost a half gallon of gas. and thats being conservative.

Moved on to the EMP wiring. Got it all wired and struggled finding an ignition hot wire of my add a fuse under the hood (the EMP has three wires....an always theres hot that ran straight to the battery, a ground, and a trigger switch). I ended up going with the daytime running lights. I think I am going to do a little research and find a better power source. The fuse for the DRL's were 20 amps. Now with that, I noticed that the highest amperage in the underhood fuse box was 30. I decided I wasn't going any higher than that with my add a fuse. So I used a 10 amp fuse for the intercooler pump. Filled up the system with dexcool approved prestone. Added in a bottle of water wetter, and proceeded to turn on the ignition switch, and hope that everything was water tight..........Well it wasn't. ended up with three fittings that I could not get to seal. Added in these little earl sealer things and they worked beautifully. I paid 7 dollars or so for the things, which seem to be some really soft bent up aluminum washers (I felt robbed......the only thing that Earl's performance needed was a gun and a mask lolol). But the things WORK. I highly recommend them if you are having sealing issues with your AN fittings. The part number for the -12AN ones are 169212ERL

After this I moved on to installing my Fuel pump cover without any issues. I also went and head and reinstalled the rear seat.

While I was on my trip to up state new york, I got in contact with Mont motorsports and bought an MPVI2 along with an AEM wide band.......Yeah, I know I already had the innovate one but I came to find out that it required the MPVI2 Pro, and the AEM one was dirt simple to install and works flawlessly with HPtuners.......it was an easy choice. I went ahead and installed this as well so that I could wrap up my interior. I am really happy with the gauge pod and the visibility of it.

As far as wheels and tires, I went with Tony (Norcal SS) on this one. I got the 18x11 ZL1 replicas with the 325 M&H's that he offers. at least to my eye they look real similar to the stock wheels. So for now, I will run these in the back and stock wheels in the front. I am eventually going to go with the Z28 reps, but they only come in 20's......Which means a lot less traction. Also had a small issue with the wheels. I took them to discount tire to mount and balance and they mentioned that they felt that one of the tires are out of run as it took ALOT of weight to balance it out. I reached out to Tony on this. I was really just looking to see what the process was to exchange the wheel. He told me that I need to take the wheel back to discount. Have them dismount the tire and just spin the wheel itself and let him know what the results are. It almost feels like I am jumping through hoops. I think what I am going to do is just run the wheel and see if I get any weird vibrations. If not, I am just going to call it good. Here a picture of the wheel mounted on the car in my dark ass garage.





One other issue that I ran into that I didn't recognize before is that my Ground and pound cutout dumps are hitting the cutouts. As I prepare to get this car on the road, I am going through all of my testing and making sure that my cutouts work after getting the battery back in and using the remote. I noticed that they are hitting effectively stopping the cuts out at about a quarter of the way open. So out came the dremel and grinded them down to make clearance on both. One was worse than the other as on the coupe, one of the cutouts is effectively ran upside down. Test fit them and as of the writing, I still need to take them down a little farther. I think I might write him a note, just so he knows and maybe he can update his template. I still HIGHLY recommend his product. Heres a quick picture of me working on them...They are covered in grinding dust and I will obviously re-paint them when clearances are good. Clearly, I am not the best with a grinder, but they will look decent by the time I am done.



Last thing for this posting, is that I decided to go with Justin White for tuning. I was going to go with a local guy that was recommended to me in Nashville. But during Memorial day, he had a half off special on Facebook for all military members. It was again a no brainer for me.


All I have left is to get the base tune from Justin and start her up and hope that I did everything correctly.....Should be very very soon.
 

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Nice update Sir!
 
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